Driveshaft loops.

Leadfoot

Needs Bigger Tires!
Dec 27, 2006
904
31
28
48
Western MA
www.matpa.org
Looks good. Exactly what I want to build. My only question or concern would be are you using this stricly on the track with your suspension blocked?? How is it going to work and move with your rear axle moving up and down? Looks like everything is welded solid there.

Unfortunately his has no slip, but I've seen guys build a cage similar to this one and attach it with shoulder bolts at the centerline of the two ujoints and as the suspension cycles the cage moves with the driveshaft. The only thing he would have to do is add a section of slip to compensate for the shaft getting longer/shorter as the suspension cycles.
 

SmokeShow

Well-known member
Nov 30, 2006
6,818
34
48
43
Lawrenceburg, KY
looks killer but is it in two pieces (a top and bottom or two sides) so that the drive sahft can drop out without sliding it all the way out one end?? Can't tell so well from the pics.

he's definitely done a LOT of work to prepare for this one hook. I hope he does good! There's sure some big names on that list of pullers.


C-ya
 

durallymax

New member
Apr 26, 2008
2,756
1
0
Under The Hood
Unfortunately his has no slip, but I've seen guys build a cage similar to this one and attach it with shoulder bolts at the centerline of the two ujoints and as the suspension cycles the cage moves with the driveshaft. The only thing he would have to do is add a section of slip to compensate for the shaft getting longer/shorter as the suspension cycles.

So i think what your saying is I need to cut the cage in half and make a sort of slip joint so that one half can slide in and out of the other half?? I will probably do this then, sounds like a smart simple way to do it. thanks. I was out of ideas.

We were going to end up just making them so that they were set up to run with my suspension blocked, but I decided against that as I realized we would have to remove the loops and reinstall them at the pull as I dont haul it around with the suspension blocked, and some other local pulls require 1" of travel.
 

durallymax

New member
Apr 26, 2008
2,756
1
0
Under The Hood
looks killer but is it in two pieces (a top and bottom or two sides) so that the drive sahft can drop out without sliding it all the way out one end?? Can't tell so well from the pics.

he's definitely done a LOT of work to prepare for this one hook. I hope he does good! There's sure some big names on that list of pullers.


C-ya

unfortuneatley we didnt go that route, so yes the driveshaft has to be unbolted and the loops slid off.

There is a lot of work going into just getting ready for this pull, but im spending a lot of time making sure everything is right as all of these parts are for the pulls this summer as well. Just wish I had a little more time.

thanks mitch
 

Leadfoot

Needs Bigger Tires!
Dec 27, 2006
904
31
28
48
Western MA
www.matpa.org
So i think what your saying is I need to cut the cage in half and make a sort of slip joint so that one half can slide in and out of the other half?? I will probably do this then, sounds like a smart simple way to do it. thanks. I was out of ideas.

We were going to end up just making them so that they were set up to run with my suspension blocked, but I decided against that as I realized we would have to remove the loops and reinstall them at the pull as I dont haul it around with the suspension blocked, and some other local pulls require 1" of travel.


Just saw this, sorry I didn't respond sooner.

Yes. As your suspension cycles, the driveshaft gets longer/shorter. In order to keep an even distance from your driveshaft as the suspension cycles, you need a pivot point inline with each u-joint and to compensate for the driveshaft lengthening/shortening you need a section of slip (tube within a tube) with enough engagement to allow for movement and strong enough to keep both ends "inline".

The cage you built is a nice design, and should only take slight modification (cut the bar stock in-between two loops towards the center) and add a backbone to the topside using two diameters of square stock (with decent wall thickness and an OD of one closely matching the ID of the other (a "slight" loose fit is better to combat binding) with the slip located in the section you removed the bar stock from earlier. You must make sure to have enough engagement to ensure the two halves don't seperate and enough that it holds the two ends inline while also making sure not to bottom out on one of the loops. When welding the smaller tube to the shield/loop, you may want to weld in a spacer to keep things asthetically pleasing to the eye (keeping all loops and shields inline).

With the long shields that you used on the u-joint ends, the only thing to watch out for is binding on the axle housing/t-case as the suspension drops/lifts, but that is easily remedied with reliefs cut into the shield at those spots.

With the new square stock welded to the u-joint shield and driveshaft loop on each end, it should keep everything in-line. I don't have a cage on mine (all we are required to have is u-joint shields), but I'll see if I can find pictures of the design I'm talking about.
 
Last edited:

LBZ

Super Moderator
Staff member
Jul 2, 2007
9,903
149
63
46
B.C.
well heres a pic. I still need to get them mounted and painted though.

DSCN0137.jpg

Holy Mother of Pearl!! That is HUGE protection!! Nice Work!!
 

CrewCabMax

Double XL
Apr 23, 2007
66
0
0
Ohio
I helped build a setup just like that on an old friends truck. Its a nice setup, but a pain in the ass to work around. We didnt make a slip joint, and it seemed to be ok. I'm sure a slip joint would be a lot better though. We made our own cross member up towards the transfer case, and bolted it together with nyloc nuts so that it didnt have to be completly tight and could pivot. Worked out ok. Deffintly will work, and when it comes to personal saftey and crowd saftey, i will always say MORE is better! Nice work man!