Driveshaft is history
- Thread starter THEREDDEVIL
- Start date
Thanks man, I've got alot of homework to do tomorrow. Seriously considering doing the 1480's also.
The only problem with having your brother build the shaft is can he balance it after or are you gonna have to send it out to a driveshaft shop after anyway.
I went with 1480s when I twisted my stock steel rear shaft this year. The place I got it from made it the same day and shipped it out the same day. I probably have 30+ hooks on it so far and it's still mint. I can pm you contact info if you want.
I went with 1480s when I twisted my stock steel rear shaft this year. The place I got it from made it the same day and shipped it out the same day. I probably have 30+ hooks on it so far and it's still mint. I can pm you contact info if you want.
I would appreciate it man. And maybe a final cost. I'm leaning away from 1480's after seeing some of the prices. Wow
Ya I just need something strong enough to hold about 600hp and maybe a little more torque than I have now. I got ur pm and I appreciate the link. I'm shopping around now and I will b calling the shop that did yours.
Is there a reason to go bigger on one than the other? I can see if you have a ton of axle wrap and the pinion angle goes to $hit, but if not the only thing you did was move the weak link (and the front of the shaft dropping down is worse than the rear dropping as it becomes a pole vault....unless you have loops).
Let me ask u guys this question, is it a bad idea to run a steel shaft for a DD? I like driving my truck too much to make it a dedicated puller. Should I look at thicker walled aluminum or keep going with the steel idea?
Properly balanced a steel shaft will be just fine. A lot of trucks come from the factory with them. My ext cab short bed has a steel shaft.
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Sint frum tha orijinul smert fone
Ok I'm having probs deciding on a shaft. I've made up my mind to go with 1480's but I keep reading more and more about vibration probs with steel shafts in crew cab short beds. I measured mine at 69 3/4" long. I called a shop and he said he won't do anything over 60". Then I called another guy and he said he doesn't like doing it but he will. What the heck r all these high hp race/pull trucks running for a rear shaft? I know guys with rc/lb and ec/sb arent having issues cause they r around 60-61".
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Most guys run a 4" steel shaft. Sure, probably not the best on the highway but it will hold the power and take the abuse.
That's what I have in my ccsb. I drove to all of the pulls I attended and put about 15k on the steel shaft this year. No problems except my yoke "cap" to hold the t-case fluid came out. New yoke and I was back in business.
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So a properly balanced steel shaft would b ok to dd and race? I really want the strength of the steel but I like daily driving my truck too much to sacrifice drivability.
Just saw this thread... i have yokes if you need them off my old driveshaft...Going to the Saints/Rams game sunday i can just drop the whole driveshaft off to ya if you want
I appreciate the offer zac, Im going to go with 1480 u joints I think. I pulled my slip yoke off just in case I needed it. But for a little extra cash I can upgrade.
Greensburg Machine can do what you need and ship it to you. They made me a 4" steel one for my EC/SB. They can do whatever you need and are pretty reasonable and great to deal with (especially compared to what the shops are wanting for fancy aluminum ones)
I just switch to a Steel one this weekend and yes you do feel a little more of the road but I can't complain its not much different then my aluminum.