DPR High Volume Oil Pump Owners Please Share With me.........

[Filadog]

I'm just getting my truck back up and running after the build and with the cold weather and 15w40 my HV oil pump was doing some crazy chit. Jumping to 120 and then diving below 60psi. Using the engine heater eliminates the problem and I will be going with a 5w-30 as suggested but I want to hear from the experience of others using this oil pump. I don't mind if I have to plug the truck up on some cold nights but I want to know what temps and oil weight combinations have caused anyone else problems. Does a 5w-30 completely eliminate this issue or is there still a need to plug it in below a certain temperature? Any input would be greatly appreciated.

 

[sweetdiesel]

I have a HV pump
IMO always good to plug in .....it is better on the truck If it is cold

my oil press spikes too but it also carries a lot of oil so IM happy

 

[Filadog]

Sweetdiesel, what oil are you using? I assume you are saying it is best to run the block heater before every start up regardless of the weather? Yes, I agree the motor will likey but seems a bit extreme. So were do you draw the line? Just prior to blowing the oil filter seal?

Definitely am happy to have the HV oil pump but want to know how best to manage my pressures under colder conditions. I think with the heavier oil it was actually sucking a hole in the surface to cause the sharp drop? I would like to avoid that

 

[Leadfoot]

Sweetdiesel, what oil are you using? I assume you are saying it is best to run the block heater before every start up regardless of the weather? Yes, I agree the motor will likey but seems a bit extreme. So were do you draw the line? Just prior to blowing the oil filter seal?

Definitely am happy to have the HV oil pump but want to know how best to manage my pressures under colder conditions. I think with the heavier oil it was actually sucking a hole in the surface to cause the sharp drop? I would like to avoid that

I'm also wondering about the adjustability of these pumps. If I remember correctly these are externally adjustable. I'm wondering if adjusting them for colder weather might be a good thing (assuming you aren't going to drag race or truck pull in -20 degree weather). Once the weather gets back up to a steady high temp, then readjusting it again. That in combination with viscosity changes might be the best option......just wondering what others think?

Plugging in the truck is probably best in cold weather, but there are times/situations where that is not always possible.

 

[sweetdiesel]

Sweetdiesel, what oil are you using? I assume you are saying it is best to run the block heater before every start up regardless of the weather? Yes, I agree the motor will likey but seems a bit extreme. So were do you draw the line? Just prior to blowing the oil filter seal?

Definitely am happy to have the HV oil pump but want to know how best to manage my pressures under colder conditions. I think with the heavier oil it was actually sucking a hole in the surface to cause the sharp drop? I would like to avoid that

15-40

Have you talked to Curtis about it?

 

[JoshH]

I think I've seen where Curtis was modifying the oil pressure control valve in the front cover to drop the oil pressure a little on some trucks to keep the oil pressure from being too high.

 

[IdahoRob]

Ours came with shims. They are not in ours at this time, but can be added to raise pressure. Yours may have the shims in it causing the spiking while cold.

Easy to add or remove shims if you have the updated relief valve.

 

[MAXLLY]

correctamundo on the shims, mine came supplied with shims/washers.

Beware the machining in the end of the valve and the snap ring... its a bit*h to get in and out. I put it in a vise with a rod to push the plunger in while i swapped washers. Tolerances/viscosity aside, i think they are set up for 60 PSI idle from the box... not sure its been a year since i spoke with Curtis.

IIRC the washers are .020 each?

Better to call Curtis and get it from the horses mouth... hope the remove/install info was helpful.

 

[SIKDMAX]

Filadog OT but have you dynoed your truck?

 

[Filadog]

Thanks for all the input guys. Yes, I do have the updated regulator so I would assume it has the shims. I'll check with my mechanic to see what shims were installed. He did talk to Curtis and was told to use the lower viscosity oil. That alone could resolve the issue but it's good to know we can remove all the shims if the pressure still runs too high. So, with these pumps what would be a good pressure range from cold start to fully warm? Stock was pretty weak.
As with any product, I expected there could be a variety of experiences with these pumps so I wanted to hear directly from those using them. I really thank Curtis for offering these and definitely will consult with him further if needed. It's a great product and I just wanted to learn as much as possible to make the best use of it. Hopefully I will be driving the truck next week and will post the results of the oil change or any shim removal.

Sikdmax, haven't dyno'd yet but definitely will ASAP! This project has taken waaaaaaay too long but once I get hp #'s and times I will be posting them. I've learned so much from everyone here on the forum and am anxious to share the results. I just haven't had anything to offer with the truck still down. I'm sure it will take time to get everything dialed in but if the results come up short, I'll be looking at Nathan's big twin kit or a multi-stage N20 to make up the difference.

 

[sweetdiesel]

Thanks for all the input guys. Yes, I do have the updated regulator so I would assume it has the shims. I'll check with my mechanic to see what shims were installed. He did talk to Curtis and was told to use the lower viscosity oil. That alone could resolve the issue but it's good to know we can remove all the shims if the pressure still runs too high. So, with these pumps what would be a good pressure range from cold start to fully warm? Stock was pretty weak.
As with any product, I expected there could be a variety of experiences with these pumps so I wanted to hear directly from those using them. I really thank Curtis for offering these and definitely will consult with him further if needed. It's a great product and I just wanted to learn as much as possible to make the best use of it. Hopefully I will be driving the truck next week and will post the results of the oil change or any shim removal.

I dont know enough about it yet to give info ,But I never put in any more washers my oil press was over 100psi at idle for the fist little bit

Sikdmax, haven't dyno'd yet but definitely will ASAP! This project has taken waaaaaaay too long

How long?


I'll be looking at Nathan's big twin kit or a multi-stage N20 to make up the difference.

That's AWSOME

 

[Idaho CTD]

I really wouldn't use lower viscosity oil. That is the cushin for your bearings. The is a reason why most racers use heavy weight oil.

That being said you can modify a factory pressure relief valve to raise the pressure on a stock truck. It won't raise the pressure at idle due to pump rpm's and volume but just off idle it will make a lot more pressure. A friend of mine is running 10-15psi over stock just by modifying his stock pressure relief valve. When I get a little time I'll mess with mine and let people know what I did exactly.

 

[Filadog]

Sweetdiesel, I know it's insane and I'm afraid to admit it but the build will have taken 2 years next month! Why? Mostly waiting on parts from vendors and trying to do too much at one time. There have been many contributing factors but primarily most of my woes have come as a result of dealing with a very screwed up individual out of Oak Grove, MO. What a piece of work he is! Never been jacked around so much in my entire life! But that's a very long story and way off topic.

Anyway, looks like I'll be rolling this week with the 5w-30 Royal Purple so we'll see what the oil pressure range is with that. Thanks again.

 

[RickDLance]

Hey, Oak Grove is a nice place.

 

[othrgrl]

Like Idaho CTD said I would not run a lower viscocity oil, especially if you have slightly looser than stock clearances (which most build do). It needs to have enough viscocity to stay on the bearings under very extreme pressures. I would probably run 15-40 in the winter and even thicker in the summer during pulling and racing season.

Glad you finally got that thing up and running - when I saw you at pageland you seemed pretty dishearted about how long it had been taking, glad you kept pushing and got it done. Can't wait to see another built truck at the races and pulls. Mine should have a built motor this season as well as ChevyDieselLLY's build that we have coming up. If it's the same guy from Oak Grove that I deal with (RickDLance), I haven't had any problems with him yet.

On edit: Rick, I was hoping that headers, up-pipes or pedestals weren't making his build take 2 years.

 

[slowlmm]

I really wouldn't use lower viscosity oil. That is the cushin for your bearings. The is a reason why most racers use heavy weight oil.

That being said you can modify a factory pressure relief valve to raise the pressure on a stock truck. It won't raise the pressure at idle due to pump rpm's and volume but just off idle it will make a lot more pressure. A friend of mine is running 10-15psi over stock just by modifying his stock pressure relief valve. When I get a little time I'll mess with mine and let people know what I did exactly.

I was going to just ask that question if that could be done. would there be any down side to this? i couldent see one but thougth i would ask. IM really interested in doing that nathan if you coud post how or what you did when you get a chance Thanks Tommy

 

[slowlmm]

Sweetdiesel, I know it's insane and I'm afraid to admit it but the build will have taken 2 years next month! Why? Mostly waiting on parts from vendors and trying to do too much at one time. There have been many contributing factors but primarily most of my woes have come as a result of dealing with a very screwed up individual out of Oak Grove, MO. What a piece of work he is! Never been jacked around so much in my entire life! But that's a very long story and way off topic.

Anyway, looks like I'll be rolling this week with the 5w-30 Royal Purple so we'll see what the oil pressure range is with that. Thanks again.

mabey try rotellas new 5-40 synthetic i had it in my truck and liked it should help with lower viscosity when cold but still have your 40 rateing. but again i dont know if this would caus any issues. my truck did warm up alot quicker in the morning with it in

 

[TrentNell]

I was going to just ask that question if that could be done. would there be any down side to this? i couldent see one but thougth i would ask. IM really interested in doing that nathan if you coud post how or what you did when you get a chance Thanks Tommy

x2

 

[Filadog]

Yea, I thought about the Rotella synthetic but felt I needed to break the motor in first. Also have heard a few people are against using synthetic in diesels. Not sure about that. For now, I'll take my chances on the lighter oil but will still be searching for a better oil that suits my needs once I get the motor broke in.

Anyway, about Oak grove, MO. It was absolutely not Rick. Rick seems like a real straight shooter. Actually think he answered some pm's for me when I was first looking for the HV oil pump. So I don't offend anyone else, I will just say that it was Landon of Midwest Diesel who caused me so much headache (and still owes me about $400 which he twice promised to post back to my credit card and never did). I'll give him credit for nearly a year of my build time due to parts that never came, NEVER returning or replacing my ecm I sent for programming (had to get one from Pat), all his crappy parts which caused me additional fabwork, and just general BS runaround to cover all his lies and ineptitude. Sorry to divert from the topic but it does feel good to finally get that off my chest. I have only good things to say about all the other vendors I dealt with in this build. Thanks to them for making up for the "one really sour apple".

 

[MAXLLY]

If a guy is depending on viscosity to retain bearing oil film IMO he's gonna be in trouble.

I bought 15/40 DELO ($40), cheap ass crap, a guy is gonna screen and run a magnet through the first batch of oil to find bad stuff right... or is he gonna run the crap through the motor for 500 miles? BTW- if you rev up the motor with 15/40 and 1 shim... it will blow the o ring right out the side of the filter.... let the stat pop and keep RPM low. Push lock fittings (300 PSI) even for testing are not a safe option IMO.

Then you can buy the $90 oil if you wanna.

Good luck Dude! BUY THE PUMP.