LLY: Do I need more fuel or something?

SSchmi5519

LLY Cult Leader
Oct 19, 2008
3,387
1
36
Arizona
My truck is still running rather shoddily.

It's gutless when im on the freeway except for a little initial surge.

I used to think it was my stock converter slipping, but now I have a SC IV and thats not the problem. Though it shifts very very harsh, almost like its slamming into gear as it shifts.

Performance isnt bad from stops and such, but like i said...if i put it to the metal it just slams into the gears and doesn't have much going for it until it shifts into 4th and takes off. That is, until about 80 where it loses its balls again.

I thought that the Suncoast trannys were supposed to be smooth shifters?

I'm running a PPE lvl 6 tune with de-fuel, is this too much for my fuel system without a lift pump?
 

SSchmi5519

LLY Cult Leader
Oct 19, 2008
3,387
1
36
Arizona
It's learned.

My FPRV has been tightened by the hand of God, I had 4 feet of leverage on it and it still didnt budge.
 

beach_33

Member
Feb 18, 2008
704
0
16
des moines, IA
i would say you for sure need a lift pump. this might get you by with out the shim. is your egr blocked. could be blowing open. also i would learn the tranny for hard acceleration in towhaul and normal driving in just plain D. might try resetting the taps and then do the above.but i am just an amature so perhapse someone else has something better
 

SteveFord

What's Next?
May 8, 2008
1,317
0
36
Iowa
i would say you for sure need a lift pump. this might get you by with out the shim. is your egr blocked. could be blowing open. also i would learn the tranny for hard acceleration in towhaul and normal driving in just plain D. might try resetting the taps and then do the above.but i am just an amature so perhapse someone else has something better
I'd say you hit every important part.
 

SSchmi5519

LLY Cult Leader
Oct 19, 2008
3,387
1
36
Arizona
Taps was reset after I got the trans.

EGR is blocked.

Guess I should find a way to get at that valve.

Anyone get an impact on it?
 

SSchmi5519

LLY Cult Leader
Oct 19, 2008
3,387
1
36
Arizona
Changed filter.

Airdog 150 is coming for 'christmas'

PPE Shim kit came already.

On my way home tonight i wasn't on it too hard, gave it 1/3 throttle up a hill and then turned. Upon resuming acceleration the truck started jerking when i'd give it gas and if i gave it full throttle it had nothing. It actually was slowing down like i wasn't on the throttle at all.

Does that mean that the rail was just comletely drained?

It would go ok if i gave it less than 1/4 throttle, at 1/2 it began the jerking, and at full it did nothing. Kinda like a bog sound.:confused:

I know its not JUST the tune im running, since its done this with other tuning as well.


1)Any ideas as to the problem?

2)Any ideas how to get the FPRV off for my shim install?
 

vortecfcar

No longer a member
Jun 28, 2007
167
0
0
Steve,

Get a log of the truck exhibiting this behavior. Be sure to log actual and desired rail pressure along with others. That should give a very good idea of the condition of your fuel system.

Nick
 

Robby Avery

GM TECH @ FENDER GMC
Jul 31, 2008
820
2
18
Norman Park, Georgia
never done a shim kit install but the best way I found is the get a 12 point deep well socket and a really freakin long pull bar and take it slow don't get mad cause if you do you'll shear the head and want ever get it off. Are you throwing any codes when the truck shutters if so it should be low rail pressure codes mine did it and I said screw it and bought a ATS twin CP3 kit to fix my problem already had built trans and twin lift pumps and it still did it
 

SSchmi5519

LLY Cult Leader
Oct 19, 2008
3,387
1
36
Arizona
Steve,

Get a log of the truck exhibiting this behavior. Be sure to log actual and desired rail pressure along with others. That should give a very good idea of the condition of your fuel system.

Nick

Is there a log FAQ or How-to?

Never logged with EFI Live before.

-Steve
 

Cougar281

Well-known member
Sep 11, 2006
1,809
253
83
St Louis, MO
never done a shim kit install but the best way I found is the get a 12 point deep well socket and a really freakin long pull bar and take it slow don't get mad cause if you do you'll shear the head and want ever get it off. Are you throwing any codes when the truck shutters if so it should be low rail pressure codes mine did it and I said screw it and bought a ATS twin CP3 kit to fix my problem already had built trans and twin lift pumps and it still did it

Don't use a 12pt socket; use a 6pt. You want as much surface area to grip the valve as possible (12pt's are called knucle busters for a reason ;)). I used a 16" flex head 1/2" drive craftsman ratchet with a short (~2") extension. Got it off fairly easily, then putting it back (the second time) got it as tight as I could with the ratchet, then added half my jack handle and gave it another ~45*.