Do I need a rebuild?

[yamaha537]

These are some pictures of my s472. I pulled my Intake off and happened to notice this. It doesn't look good in my opinion.
I've had a v band welded up this cover two separate times. I'm wondering if maybe it warped a bit and now is making contact or if this needs a rebuild.
I bought the turbo used from a guy on compd. said he had 1500 miles on it and from the condition when I received it I can believe it. I've put about 3000 on it so far.
I'm wondering if my billet wheel is shot now also. Side to side shaft play seems to have a little but I only have my stock turbo to gauge off of and I know s400 tend to have a bit more. What do you guys think?

 

[yamaha537]

Pic2

 

[Burn Down]

My guess is it warped from welding if the bearings feel tight...

 

[yamaha537]

I'm going to compare the play to another s400 to see if it's around the same. Hoping the wheel is ok. I'll have to micrometer it one day I suppose

 

[Burn Down]

I'm sure it shaved some off but if you ran it again it probably would be fine. I have seen a lot worse run. Mark at Danville could get you the radial and axial specs.

 

[yamaha537]

Yeah I'm running that bad boy for sure. I've has enough down time this summer. I'll call mark and get some info for when I MIC it.
Who does good rebuilds? I'll probably have it freshened up this winter.

 

[Burn Down]

Mark or Russell
http://www.duramaxdiesels.com/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=170
http://www.duramaxdiesels.com/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=149

 

[gamudslinger88]

Russell (yellowchevy) has been great to work with. He has been very involved and stayed in co tact with me with updates and has taken the time to answer every question I had. That makes me feel better knowing they appreciate me spending my hard earned money with them. I have had limited experience with Mark but is very knowledgeable from what I gathered in my short conversation with him. I'm sure you can't go wrong with either.

 

[CaptPhil]

I personally wouldnt send it out to get rebuilt. I would just take a the comp cover off and use a flapper wheel to open up the throat a smidge. Then run it hard a couple times and see if it is rubbing, if it is, repeat.

 

[JoshH]

I personally wouldnt send it out to get rebuilt. I would just take a the comp cover off and use a flapper wheel to open up the throat a smidge. Then run it hard a couple times and see if it is rubbing, if it is, repeat.

I would not use any hand operated power tools on anything inside a turbo including the compressor cover and turbine housing. At most, I might use some very fine sand paper and wet sand it, but with a flapper wheel on a grinder, you run the risk of ruining the cover. It doesn't take long to remove too much material when you're working with aluminum.

 

[S Phinney]

Wet sand it by hand. Since it has hit it probably does need a rebuild. It isn't hard to do if you can turn wrenches proficiently you can handle that yourself. You will probably spend around day 200 bucks for what you need to rebuild it. It takes about 30 to 45 minutes to rebuild one. Check your wheel very closely.

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

 

[yamaha537]

After doing some research I will probably do the rebuild myself. It doesn't sound really hard to do. I'm going to run it for the summer I guess and I'll pull it apart in the off season.
If I sand down the inside a touch would it effect anything? I don't know how tight you want the wheel to be, I'm assuming you'd want it as tight of tolerances as possible for best efficiency.
I just don't want to remove to much to where there is a gap between the wheel and housing

 

[yellowchevy]

After doing some research I will probably do the rebuild myself. It doesn't sound really hard to do. I'm going to run it for the summer I guess and I'll pull it apart in the off season.
If I sand down the inside a touch would it effect anything? I don't know how tight you want the wheel to be, I'm assuming you'd want it as tight of tolerances as possible for best efficiency.
I just don't want to remove to much to where there is a gap between the wheel and housing

It's not rocket science by any means, just take your time and you'll be fine. If you questions yourself at all, take a lot of pictures in the disassembly stage; that way you can look back to make sure you get it back together right.

Get some 220, 320, 400, & 600 sand paper to sand the groves down. As long as they're not really deep and the comp wheel isn't worn down so bad that the material is folding over you should be fine.
I'd personally take the comp cover off and sand it down, if you're planning on running it for the season, this way you can see if it fits again. A good way to check would be to polish up the inside of the cover with mothers polish. This way you'll be able to tell due to seeing scratches.

If you don't get the turbo & oil feeds lines pressurized before you start the motor and that turbo spins in a dry cartridge, I've seen the comp wheels touch from time to time. Don't know if that did or could have happened but just something I've seen.

If you run into any issues or have questions while working on it, feel free to PM or contact me.

Yellowchevy