Where is that fuel flow going if its not returning it?
The diagram you posted shows where it goes:
nowhere. It just stops flowing. Since you have a lift pump, the lift pump will raise the fuel line to max pressure (usually 7-15 PSI) then its regulator will return fuel to the tank.
And an update with where we are at with the truck. I got the ok to plug the used regulator into the ecm to see what happens.We started the truck and left it ran several times with the regulator unplugged and to see if we could duplicate the fault we plugged it in and sure enough now the truck wont start. Now this regulator is making the EXACT same noise the new one we just pulled was making.We quick unplugged it and now the truck starts again.
Since it runs with the regulator unplugged, but not with it plugged in, you can now safely diagnosing an electrical issue.
Now you can get your scan tool back out. You want to log the following parameters (they may be called something else with your tool):
- RPM (Engine RPM)
- FRPCOM (Fuel Rail Pressure Regulator Commanded)
- FRPCOMM (Commanded Fuel Rail Pressure Regulator Flow)
- FRP_C (Fuel Rail Pressure)
- FRPDES (Desired Fuel Rail Pressure)
Depending on your tool, you might also have access to Desired, Commanded, and/or Actual Fuel Rail Pressure Regulator Current. Log all of those that exist.
Look at what the ECU thinks it is doing. At this point, I would be trying to narrow down the issue to one of these:
- Wiring problem (short to power or ground - diagnose this with an ohm meter)
- Tune problem (ECU is commanding too much current - have someone look at the tune file)
- ECU problem (ECU is commanding normal current, but providing lots - replace ECU)
I would look in that order too. You mentioned the truck has a switchable tune in the center console. Have you tried switching to a different one? Perhaps one of them was a "anti-theft" that shuts off the regulator. Unlikely, but possible, and worth trying.
Good luck.
Edit: My manuals don't go up to the LBZ, but the regulator electrically is the same for all years. If you are going to test the wiring harness, here are what the pins do:
Pin 1 - Connects to ECU to get power. Power should be steady on with key on.
Pin 2 - Connects to ECU to ground to PWM the regulator. Should vary in voltage relative to ground.
Pin 3 - Always connects to ground.
There should be no continuity between any of those pins on the harness with the key off. If there is, there is a short.