Anyone got any pics or plans to do a DIY lift pump. Say a pump w cat water separator or something. Already have cat filter under hood (udp) adaptor.
After several trials and errors, I'm finally finished with my fuel system upgradesBig thanks to "Burn Down" from DuramaxDiesels with the initial write up.
Specs on the system: Kennedy twin pumps with the billet pickup and 5/8'' supply lines. Powered by his harness.
Twin CAT filters with 10 micron water seperator and 2 micron final filter. The filter heads are from CAT as well. They use -8an fittings and i ordered mine from summit.
I fabricated a bracket out of some 2x2" angle iron, 3" flat stock, and 1 1/4" square tubing. Make sure to use hose rated for fuel and NOT regular heater hose. It will begin to sweat and droop. The check valve is from lowes and lists for $14.99 but the lady ran it up wrong and i got it for $9
Parts List:
Pumps of your choice
Bracket for filter heads $20.00
(2) Cat #195-1068 Filter base $81.80
(1) Cat #326-1642 Water separator $33.95
(1) Cat #343-5527 Fuel bowl $22.50
(2) Cat #1R-0749(50) Fuel filter $37.16
(1) Lowes #61252 3/4" Check valve $14.99 (They want $100+ for one from summit!)
Various -8an fittings for filter heads ~$50
(2) Lowes 3/4" MPT to 1/2" barb fittings $4.42
(10 or so) Hose clamps $5.00
5 Feet of 1/2" Fuel rated hose $8.00
(1) Dayco #71359 (ONLY IF DELETING $8.99
STOCK FILTER HEAD) Total: Around $300 plus a lift pump.
Theres others stuff like nuts and bolts and drills bits but that's all up to you. I listed 2 fuel filters because its smart to always carry an extra with ya. I'm sure it could have been done cheaper with using Baldwin filter heads but I am satisfied with my custom setupAnyways on to the pics!
Pumps mounted on the heat shield of the tank
Check valve
no more leaky stock bs!
dayco rubber hose
Ive done it both ways Wayne if your moving the ficm i would probably run 1/2 from the lift pump to the ficm and 1/2 out to a fuel block and then to the 2xcp3 if its on BGD.If you talking the blue truck i may be inclined to use the stock line.The fuel blocks ive used have an 1/8 plug in the top of them that you can insert a fuel presure gauge as i have done oe put in an 1/8 plug which can be used for bleeding.Also the fuel blocks have 3/8ths out and 1/2 in and i found 3/8ths fittings for the cp3 from parker so the cp3 gets some nice flow to them otherwise have you seen how small the supply gets down to for the cp3?like 1/4 or 5/16ths.I'd like to do a setup like this with a stock filter head delete and also move the ficm (on my lb7). Did you keep the factory fuel line disconnects or run 1/2" line clear to the cp3?