Dieting

[05lly2500hd]

I've been pondering an idea a while now. I may be in the wrong spot, dont' know. But it would be informative and fun if we had a thread about ditching pieces and parts, swapping parts, etc to lose weight for racing.

IE:
loosing tailgate gains you 20 lbs.
loosing backseat and front passenger seat gains you 150 lbs.

ETC.

I'd rather keep my truck in street trim as it's a daily driver. I don't give a rat's what I can run by removing all the seats, stripping the ac, tailgate, spare, toobox, etc., etc. I want to know what I'm running on the street with all the seats in place and my toolbox.
Get my drift?

So please post what weight you drop at the track or have dropped perm. or temp. and cooresponding weights.
Might be a fun thread.

 

[05lly2500hd]

i'll give it a whirl
I don't carry a spare or second battery. I IMAGINE that shaves off maybe 50 lbs.
Not much, but what was the rule of thumb, I believe McRat came up with? 200lbs=.10ET?

I've considered loosing my toolbox, but it's just too valuable to me. I know everything on my truck and if anything happened while on the road, I'd have a very good chance to fix it without calling for a tow, etc.


So..................what do you guys do to drop weight PERMANETLY????(Daily drivers that is)

 

[racinmike77]

You can get a fiberglass roll pan, and remove the spare tire including taking the sawzall to all of the mounts that hold the spare tire in place. I did both of these on my last truck.

 

[JoshH]

The second battery by itself is probably close to 50 lbs. The spare, assuming the stock steel wheel and tire, are about 75 lbs.

My normal street weight is somewhere around 7100-7200 lbs. The most weight reduction I've ever done has got me down to about 6600. Here's the list of what I did.

swapped my H2s and 285s for PYOs and 265s (~160 lbs)
removed the second battery (~50 lbs)
removed the back seat (~180 lbs)
removed the nerf bars and brackets (~40 lbs)
removed the rear bumper and hitch (~80 lbs)
removed the spare and the spare tire winch (~80 lbs)

 

[sweetdiesel]

Im going to add wieght this weekend Geuss i got a little rammy with the sawzall:angel:

 

[sweetdiesel]

You can get a fiberglass roll pan, and remove the spare tire including taking the sawzall to all of the mounts that hold the spare tire in place. I did both of these on my last truck.

Did you install a new custom crossmember?

 

[05lly2500hd]

The second battery by itself is probably close to 50 lbs. The spare, assuming the stock steel wheel and tire, are about 75 lbs.

My normal street weight is somewhere around 7100-7200 lbs. The most weight reduction I've ever done has got me down to about 6600. Here's the list of what I did.

swapped my H2s and 285s for PYOs and 265s (~160 lbs)
removed the second battery (~50 lbs)
removed the back seat (~180 lbs)
removed the nerf bars and brackets (~40 lbs)
removed the rear bumper and hitch (~80 lbs)
removed the spare and the spare tire winch (~80 lbs)

so according to the 200lbs=.10 theory, that coulda/shoulda shaved .3 off your ET, correct?

I can't remember when the last time was I had my second battery on.......maybe that's why it turns over a bit,
I've got some heavy tires and rims for sure...
sad thing is I don't even have a spare tire, but have had great luck so far.
How hard to remove the tire winch, and hitch?
Did you replace the rear bumper with a roll pan or just remove it ?

I could probably live without the hitch for a while, the backseat would have to be a removed at track only type thing, that's what I'm trying to avoid. That and the toolbox.

 

[zfuller123]

A note on heavy wheels and tires too.... and i'm sure someone can correct me if i'm wrongon this, as i just heard it myself from a friend at the track.... but i guess that someone respectable (i don't recall a name at all) - that forever every 1 lb. of 'rotating assembly or mass' - it's equivalent to 9 lbs of dead / truck weight.

So - using that calculation, adding 40# of wheels and tires is the equivalent to adding about 360# of tools, batteries, etc. etc....

Again, i don't know the exact #'s or how this was determined - it came up in conversation because my truck is a dually and that i could shave some weight by ditching two of the rear tires - for dyno or track - because they are HP robbers...

 

[05lly2500hd]

A note on heavy wheels and tires too.... and i'm sure someone can correct me if i'm wrongon this, as i just heard it myself from a friend at the track.... but i guess that someone respectable (i don't recall a name at all) - that forever every 1 lb. of 'rotating assembly or mass' - it's equivalent to 9 lbs of dead / truck weight.

So - using that calculation, adding 40# of wheels and tires is the equivalent to adding about 360# of tools, batteries, etc. etc....

Again, i don't know the exact #'s or how this was determined - it came up in conversation because my truck is a dually and that i could shave some weight by ditching two of the rear tires - for dyno or track - because they are HP robbers...

Interesting, anyone care to comment. So if true by shaving 160lbs of tire/wheel like Josh did...that's equivalent to 1440lbs dead weight? sounds high. That would shave off .72 of his ET............either incorrect? or maybe I'm incorrect by misquoting the 200 pounds dead weight equals one-tenth reduction ET, maybe McRAt was speaking of rotating mass and not dead weight.??

 

[zfuller123]

I think another point to note on the whole rotating mass thing..... at least in regards to the track (dyno would be different for lots of reasons) - that 'all other things being equal, 1# of rotating mass is roughly = 9# of dead weight'

By this, i mean if shaving tires down = less traction, etc. etc. then the theory doesn't hold so well. Lots of variables - but definitely something i'm personally taking under serious consideration given the truck currently weighs in at around 8100# without my 'mASS' in the seat

 

[JoshH]

so according to the 200lbs=.10 theory, that coulda/shoulda shaved .3 off your ET, correct?

I can't remember when the last time was I had my second battery on.......maybe that's why it turns over a bit,
I've got some heavy tires and rims for sure...
sad thing is I don't even have a spare tire, but have had great luck so far.
How hard to remove the tire winch, and hitch?
Did you replace the rear bumper with a roll pan or just remove it ?

I could probably live without the hitch for a while, the backseat would have to be a removed at track only type thing, that's what I'm trying to avoid. That and the toolbox.

I'm not sure how much of an improvement I saw from full weight to light weight.

To remove the spare tire winch it just takes removing one bolt and pivoting it down out of the bracket it sits in. The hitch is 8 bolts and the trailer plug harness to get it out. When I pulled the bumper, I just took it off for the track and put it back on afterward. The back seat I just pulled at home before I went to the track and put it back when I got home.

Interesting, anyone care to comment. So if true by shaving 160lbs of tire/wheel like Josh did...that's equivalent to 1440lbs dead weight? sounds high. That would shave off .72 of his ET............either incorrect? or maybe I'm incorrect by misquoting the 200 pounds dead weight equals one-tenth reduction ET, maybe McRAt was speaking of rotating mass and not dead weight.??

The biggest difference I noticed from swapping tires was 60' times. It's harder to get those big heavy wheels and tires rolling from a stop. I'm not sure it was the same as dropping 1400 lbs.

 

[othrgrl]

Spare tire and winch, jack and tools, plow mount, step bars, and tow hooks have been off permanently for a while. I remove the rear and passenger seats, tail gate, and bed cover before heading the track - it only takes about a minute with air tools. Last year I removed the bumper and hitch a few times for the track then replaced them - since then I put on a steel roll pan and left them off - then I built a beefy hitch that's hidden behind the roll pan and probably makes up for the stock bumper and hitch combined. I haven't pulled the second battery yet but might start. After that theres removing the factory front bumper and making supports to hold on an SS bumper cover but $/lb it doesn't shave much. If you want to get crazy you can start removing carpet, insulation, center console, replace the bed with fiberglass bedsides, glass with plexi, ect.

IMO rotating mass DOES have a huge effect on ETs. On the same tuning on my 20s I have cut the same 60' times as what I have on PYOs with BFG ATs yet ran .1 slower in the 1/8 mile.

Disclaimer, the following paragraph may offend you:
The whole "I want to run it the way it is on the street" is BS in my book. I don't drive on any streets with staging lights and 1/8 and 1/4 mile trap lights, VHT track prep, aired down tires, ect. I don't like street racing period - it's alot more dangerous (for you and everyone around) and can get your truck impounded - it's just not worth it to me. If a car is worth your time they will line up with you under controlled conditions at the track for a real race. When it comes to racing you can call stripping weight "cheating" all you want but to me it's called preparation - I'm trying to get across the line first and don't care how heavy I am when I do it, the whole bitching about weight thing is a Ford thing to do in my book.

 

[duratothemax]

When it comes to racing you can call stripping weight "cheating" all you want but to me it's called preparation - I'm trying to get across the line first and don't care how heavy I am when I do it, the whole bitching about weight thing is a Ford thing to do in my book.

I agree Dustin, especially about the Ford thing.

The ford guys whine and complain "well my truck would be just as fast as yours if it was 1,000 pounds lighter" "on average the duramax's weigh 800 lbs less, no wonder theyre so fast" BLAH BLAH BLAH.

Ford guys, sorry that your trucks are pigs, its not our fault, so stop using that as an excuse. Dont hate us because our trucks (frames, etc, whatever it is that makes the ford 1,000lbs heavier) are just as strong, yet GM figured out how to be smart and do it with 1,000lbs less extranious garbage.

ben

 

[JoshH]

Disclaimer, the following paragraph may offend you:
The whole "I want to run it the way it is on the street" is BS in my book...

I just want to make a quick comment on this. I don't frequently street race. I have floored it from a light next to someone else who has done the same thing, but in town I try to keep it close to the speed limit. I don't think a high rate of acceleration is any danger to anyone. But anyway, who hasn't gassed it from a light? That being said, I want to see how quick my truck will run at full weight exactly how I drive on the street just so I can say my truck in street trim (down to the tire pressure) can run that fast. I mostly bracket race so my overall ET doesn't really matter. I drive my truck on the street, and I want to see how fast it is the way I drive it on the street. I figure that's a fair thing to want to know. The only reason I see to strip weight is for bragging rights or to advertise a product or company.

 

[othrgrl]

The ford guys whine and complain "well my truck would be just as fast as yours if it was 1,000 pounds lighter" "on average the duramax's weigh 800 lbs less, no wonder theyre so fast" BLAH BLAH BLAH.

The funniest part is when they say it as if they expect us to hang weights to race them. IT'S RACING - it's about getting across the line first - rather than bitch your truck is heavier pull some weight to get down to what I weigh and line em up. I sure as hell am not going to weigh my truck down to get rid of my "unfair advantage". If you make more power am I going to tell you to de-tune it to run me???? Nope...

On the other side of the arguement when you have an all purpose DD, puller, tow, race truck that you run Pro-Street and line up with "trucks" that are no longer trucks and weigh in at 5000.1 lbs do you feel bad about losing to them - not so much when they go on the trailer and you throw on your pulling tires and hang some weights then hook to a trailer and drive it home at the end of the night - but at the same time you don't complain that they won either.

 

[05lly2500hd]

I just want to make a quick comment on this. I don't frequently street race. I have floored it from a light next to someone else who has done the same thing, but in town I try to keep it close to the speed limit. I don't think a high rate of acceleration is any danger to anyone. But anyway, who hasn't gassed it from a light? That being said, I want to see how quick my truck will run at full weight exactly how I drive on the street just so I can say my truck in street trim (down to the tire pressure) can run that fast. I mostly bracket race so my overall ET doesn't really matter. I drive my truck on the street, and I want to see how fast it is the way I drive it on the street. I figure that's a fair thing to want to know. The only reason I see to strip weight is for bragging rights or to advertise a product or company.

agreed. .





Also, I'm not bitching about being heavier. If someone asks me how fast my truck is I don't want to say well it runs a 12.2 IF I take all the seats out, the toolbox, bumper and the bed off...that's my point.
Yea I've street raced..who hasn't.
My truck is a daily driver. If it was all out race only, then I would strip it down and leave it that way. I don't recall ever saying anything about cheating. I don't bitch about getting beat at the track or the street, yeah I want to win, but I want to do it in street trim, a true all purpose daily driver truck that is quick without having to remove a bunch of needed shit.

By the way, I'm not trying to get mouthy. Just wanted to clarify.:hug:

 

[racinmike77]

Did you install a new custom crossmember?

No?

 

[Subman]

I've done both, fast daily driver truck and dedicated race truck. I don't street race. Do have to school some dodges and fords once in a while pulling trailers up long grades however I shelled my first DD do to too many mods on a stock motor. That is not good for a daily driver, hence the race truck. You don't have to worry about breaking it and not having a ride home.

BUT...I'm just about finished with the 06 EC/SB I'm building. It's the one I bought to help a guy out but couldn't resell, so I decided to build it up. It will be a very fast daily driver. It will have the second set of twins we had on the race truck that put it into the 9's, and basically the same mods as the race truck with the exception of the pistons which are Mahle cast instead of forged, and smaller injectors and run a Suncoast 5 with full billet shafts and a 1054 TC. It should easily be a high to mid 10 sec street truck.

I'm probably going to sell it. I just picked up another 02 GMC 2 wheel drive work truck, and we want to build it into a dedicated prostreet truck and try and break into the 8's, and I don't need that many trucks. Should have it on the track in Medford on the 12th of September, but not with the proposed big set of twin turbos. It has a strandard LBZ set on it now and will use them to break in the motor.

You boys who want a really fast LBZ street truck here is your chance.

 

[sweetdiesel]

No?

Then what did you do with your DS shock FWIW it connects to the spare tire carrier,Did you not say you removed this?

 

[sweetdiesel]

I've done both, fast daily driver truck and dedicated race truck. I don't street race. Do have to school some dodges and fords once in a while pulling trailers up long grades however I shelled my first DD do to too many mods on a stock motor. That is not good for a daily driver, hence the race truck. You don't have to worry about breaking it and not having a ride home.

BUT...I'm just about finished with the 06 EC/SB I'm building. It's the one I bought to help a guy out but couldn't resell, so I decided to build it up. It will be a very fast daily driver. It will have the second set of twins we had on the race truck that put it into the 9's, and basically the same mods as the race truck with the exception of the pistons which are Mahle cast instead of forged, and smaller injectors and run a Suncoast 5 with full billet shafts and a 1054 TC. It should easily be a high to mid 10 sec street truck.

I'm probably going to sell it. I just picked up another 02 GMC 2 wheel drive work truck, and we want to build it into a dedicated prostreet truck and try and break into the 8's, and I don't need that many trucks. Should have it on the track in Medford on the 12th of September, but not with the proposed big set of twin turbos. It has a strandard LBZ set on it now and will use them to break in the motor.

You boys who want a really fast LBZ street truck here is your chance.

Ken you still need a work truck or is that going to be the 8 second truck

I did the same thing to many parts and stock motor Not having a work truck was dumb on my part.....Live and learn