LB7: Diesel fuel in crankcase

SMDiesel1

New member
Feb 14, 2016
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I have a customers truck that has been getting fuel in the oil. 03 gmc 3500 with a newer gm motor in it. The history going back to before I got ahold of it is that they had an injector go out and the mechanic who changed the injectors used a cordless impact to put in the new injectors and return lines using the old sealing washers, return line washers and so on. Nothing and I mean absolutely nothing was torqued down to specs. It was pooring fuel into the crankcase really bad. When the truck was brought to me I tore it apart and inspected all of the injector bodies and lines. Reinstalled them with new orings, sealing washers, and return line washers. I also torqued everything down to exact specs and checked for leaks. Sent it back to the owner and had him put it on his route. The truck was still gaining oil but not nearly as bad. I pulled both valve covers and hooked enough stuff back up to run it without valve covers and inspected for leaks and couldnt find anything obvious so we replaced the oring in the cp3 put it back together and and sent it out again. Still leaking fuel! Pulled valve covers took off return lines and retorqued everything again to specs and put it all back together. Long story short its back. Now it doesnt seem like it is gaining oil like it was before redoing the return lines and washers but I have had it apart so many times that I wonder if its all in my head or if it really is slightly better. The only thing I have not replaced is the injector cups. If they were leaking wouldnt I be able to see them leak when running it with the valve covers off? Anyyy ideas???????
Ashes to ashes, dust to dust. If it werent for Fords my tools would rust!
 

chevyburnout1

Fixing it till it breaks
Aug 25, 2008
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Berthoud, CO
When you ran it with the valve covers off did you command fuel rail pressure to max? You can also hook a vacuum pump like a mityvac to the return ports in the cylinder head to verify the return lines are sealing correctly.
 

Awenta

Active member
Sep 28, 2014
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^^that. If the cups are in good shape you don't need to replace them. However all of them should have been pulled and resealed.

Leaking cups would not leak fuel though. If the lines are sealed then one of the injectors has a cracked body.

The return lines need to be on the upper end or a little tighter than spec sometimes.

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Awenta

Active member
Sep 28, 2014
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Also, the return gaskets should be changed each time you took them off.

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The Kansan

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Aug 30, 2013
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Topeka, KS
Everything thats been said above is on the money. Do you know where they bought the injectors from? Theres really only a couple places that fuel can be coming from to leak into crank case and thats leaking through the injector or leaking out the return lines.
 

onebaddmaxxx

Active member
Feb 22, 2009
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Cecil County Md
vacuum test from the outside of the heads. I didnt have an old banjo available. So the thread is m8x1.25. Got a fitting from brake line shop and made a line to adapt to the mighty vac. I had a leak after new injector install on the last lb7 i had here. Ended up being the previous person that just did head gaskets, somehow overtightened the return line bolts so tight that it dimpled the metal return pipes. it broke the metal gasket and then got wedged in it, and imprinted the pipe.
 

Awenta

Active member
Sep 28, 2014
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Vacuum tool

http://www.duramaxdiesels.com/forum/showthread.php?t=36759
vacuum test from the outside of the heads. I didnt have an old banjo available. So the thread is m8x1.25. Got a fitting from brake line shop and made a line to adapt to the mighty vac. I had a leak after new injector install on the last lb7 i had here. Ended up being the previous person that just did head gaskets, somehow overtightened the return line bolts so tight that it dimpled the metal return pipes. it broke the metal gasket and then got wedged in it, and imprinted the pipe.
And then they strip taking them off and you curse whoever touched them

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Bustedknuckles

Honey Badger
Sep 25, 2010
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Hagerstown MD
We chased one like crazy, ended up being the front seal on the CP3 pushed out because of a crimped return line (supposedly). Vacuum test the return lines is where I'd start though.
 

Awenta

Active member
Sep 28, 2014
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Like i said, i didnt have an extra banjo fitting. Plus, its easier to move the pass. side over and stick a straight JIC fitting in than to try to fit another banjo line down there.
I got that. I was just showing smdiesel so he knew what we were talking about.

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SMDiesel1

New member
Feb 14, 2016
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Ok getting back into the shop this weekend. Judging from the pics i have to take the intake and everything off to get to those ports? So much for just replacing injectors