Diamond Eye downpipe install problem

[1slow01Z71]

The damn vband on the turbo is directly on the bottom in the most difficult position possible to get to. The T bolt on the vband is sticking out towards passenger side but the heat shield gets in the way of getting a 1/4" ratchet with a deep socket on it. My shop light got broken last night doing a trans swap for a buddy so there may be something Im missing, Ill be picking up another one today but figured Id ask and see if anyone had any tips or tricks. Getting to the top bolt on the dipstick tube bracket looks like its going to be a PITA to get to too, but again I cant see too well up there. Looks like Im going to need to use my 2' extension to come in over the top of the trans to get to the top bolt of the dipstick tube bracket.

 

[12secondhandshaker]

What about a gear wrench?

 

[camcojb]

yes, the orientation of that clamp for the downpipe is set to "assembly line" specs, not "I may have to remove this later with the body on" specs............ Hardest part of the install for me, especially with the nbs truck with the engine shoved even further back into the firewall.

You'll need to remove the turbo heat shield, or at least get it loose and moved out of the way some like I did (mine would not come off without severely bending it so I left it in place, but moved). Then a contortionist act over the top of the engine should get you to the offending clamp. On the dipstick tube, I actually was able to remove the heat shield off the stock downpipe and pull it out without removing the trans dipstick. If you do remove the dipstick, you'll need the long extensions and go over the top as you stated. Also have a drain pan under that area as it will leak if you pull the dipstick up a bit.

Jody

 

[Alligator]

The damn vband on the turbo is directly on the bottom in the most difficult position possible to get to. The T bolt on the vband is sticking out towards passenger side but the heat shield gets in the way of getting a 1/4" ratchet with a deep socket on it. My shop light got broken last night doing a trans swap for a buddy so there may be something Im missing, Ill be picking up another one today but figured Id ask and see if anyone had any tips or tricks. Getting to the top bolt on the dipstick tube bracket looks like its going to be a PITA to get to too, but again I cant see too well up there. Looks like Im going to need to use my 2' extension to come in over the top of the trans to get to the top bolt of the dipstick tube bracket.

Your t-bolt is facing the passenger side...? We have never had one like that. All of the ones we've done were pointing towards the drivers side fender. Here's a little trick. If you want to get the heat shield off, lift the cab up a bit in the front, it will come right out.

 

[1slow01Z71]

I was tired and pissed last night when i posted that on DP, and what do you know, no replys over there and a ton of help here, should've known this was the place to come:hug:

Anyway, the T part of the bolt is on the pass side, the thread and nut are on the drivers side. The insulation on my truck is hanging down on top of everything, it looks like a may be missing a few of the nuts that used to hold it up so its a PITA to get to the bolt fighting the heat shield too. I may go ahead and lift the cab so I can replace the insulation too while Im in there. Too bad I dont have a 67mm cheetah to throw in there while Im at it.:joker:

Whats the best way to lift the cab?

Jody thanks for the tip on the heatshield for the DP, may try that first instead of trying for the dipstick tube bolt.

Im going to have to wait till I finish my cognito goodies install before I can take the truck of jackstands to lift the body I really need to learn how to do things in small doses, Im installing all the cognito front end stuff plus a bd manifold, new shocks, gauges, downpipe and rancho shock controller and my fingers are raw from all of that plus a transmission swap all in two days.

 

[Alligator]

To lift the cab, loosen the 6 bolts on the cab and the two bolts at the core support about 3/4's of the way out and jack the cab up. You will also need to disconnect the steering column (make sure you tie off the steering wheel in the cab so it doesn't move) below the brake master cylinder. You should be able to get a few inches w/o unplugging any wiring.

 

[1slow01Z71]

I was asking reference to where do you put the 4x4 on the underside of the cab to lift it with a floor jack? Hopefully my guys will be done soon and I can slip away from the jobsite and wrap all this crap up, but Im not going to hold my breathe.