DHD Brace with leveled truck
- Thread starter LBZ_Baker98
- Start date
The amount that the Teflon ride on the diff is subject to to many variables, every truck is created slightly different and although they probably make the bracket in a jig they are also all slightly different. My brace ride on the diff pretty hard but hasn't eaten though the Teflon and works perfect. On the otherhand a buddy got the same setup and his is about a 1/4-1/8 off the diff and it also works fine no issues.
For mine I took a sanding disc and smoothed out the rough edges on the diff and polished up the aluminum so the Teflon would slide nicely, it sure did make a difference.
As for anyone with cranked bars and the bracket, your first mistake was cranking the bars, don't be stupid
For mine I took a sanding disc and smoothed out the rough edges on the diff and polished up the aluminum so the Teflon would slide nicely, it sure did make a difference.
As for anyone with cranked bars and the bracket, your first mistake was cranking the bars, don't be stupid
and i see we've completely missed the point....
Anyhow, if the OP provides pics, we can go from there .
Anyhow, if the OP provides pics, we can go from there .
Not really, yes the brace will work with a cranked truck, but should you do it, my opinion is no. Do people do it, yes, some have issues some don't.
The op specifically said leveled truck and it hitting the diff which sounds completely normal
Sean, we are not looking for opinions though. At the end of the day, the brace works as intended on a leveled, stock, lowered, over lowered or over cranked front end. it will hold the idler/pitman arm from moving. Flex beyond that point is not from the idler/pitman arm but from the weak centerlink flexing in/bending while the ilder/pitman arm hold steady and the stock idler arm support bracket at the frame.
Now moving away from the intended purpose of the brace, you can have a the most flat steering angles out there at launch and that stock centerlink will flex in at the inner tie rods 1/2" from end to end on a good prepped track and traction. truck had an updated super steer idler arm support and welded in bracing at the bracket. ive monitored this.
its easy to dog a "cranked front end" but its all in using the right stuff to make things last and ride its best.
Sorry for the late response. My phone won't let me upload pictures but I will do it from my computer this afternoon. I spoke with Tony and neither one of us are sure of why it won't fit. He said it does not matter if truck is leveled or not. He has sold over 10,000 of these and never had this is issue. Lucky me. He suggested pivoting the gear box then re tightening the bolts to try and pivot center link down. Going to give that a try and sell report back with pictures.
It's ok if it rubs, I sanded the sharp edges off my diff and polished it and it's been fine for going on 6+ years
Here is a pic of it he sent me. He is using the roller bearing and he can’t even install that it’s so tight. Steering wheel won’t turn either without binding. Will be checking it out tomorrow.
It’s all new due to hard launches previously. Lol. The new parts don’t have any launches on them and where bought from a Duramax vender
Quinton is correct, all new Moog parts. No launches on the new parts. Bent Centrelink and tie rods and broke a CV shaft launching hard on a sticky drag strip with it leveled. Yes I knew better. No I don't regret doing it :rofl: anyway all part numbers are correct. Quinton is gonna look at it tomorrow with me. From previous experiance if Quinton can't fix it then it can't be fixed.
I personally think that there are slight enough differences in the measurements of the chassis from the factory, and that possibly some of the dhd braces come out not quite right. I know the braces I bought a couple years ago looked like they were fabbed by an amateur. And I've also seen slight differences in chassis bracket locations. It wouldn't take much to create the lack of clearance ya'll are talking about, so I don't see why it is worth all this arguing:hello:
I'd agree, on my brace I had to cut my control arm extra bolt threads completely off so the brace wouldn't hit at lock and bind and get stuck. Like I said earlier all chassis aren't the same and even the braces are slightly different.
See what Quinton has to say, but assuming you still don't have something bent that might by my next route.