LB7: Deleting stock filter head when running airdog?
- Thread starter Bustedknuckles
- Start date
Yeah - not sure AJ. The first time I thought was my fault because I wasn't using additives. (Simply didn't think of it this year for some reason) Then it happened a cple more times throughout the winter - using additives/switching stations didn't seem to help.
Scott said this year was the worst he's seen in some time and many of the others he'd seen also used additives so who knows. It was his mechanic's air dog that bit the big one.
TY, the last time I was working on my engine, I was thinking about doing that but wasn't sure, I know that there's a delete kit but I thought u could do it with a jumper hose....Thanks Again:hug:
I take it the people that have removed the factory filter while using an Airdog haven't had any issues with loosing prime? I've been wanting to do this since I have an Airdog as well and Don't see a point in having 2 filters on the truck since the Airdog has a 2 micron on it anyways.
with an airdog or any lift pump for that matter, your fuel system is under a positive pressure from the lift pump to the CP3 so you wont loose prime but if you have a leak, you will have fuel coming out of it. The factory system works under a vacuum from the CP3 all the way back to the tank so if there is any kind of break in the lines, you will get air in the lines and loose prime/vacuum which can give poor performance or even keep the truck from startin
I just ask because when I change my factory fuel filter I still have to prime the system, but I know for a fact the airdog is working. I guess maybe I don't really have to prime I'd just have to crank it for a little while.
if you turn the key on and try to hit the pump on the fuel fliter, it should feel stiff as the pump should have pressure under it from the lift pump. you may ahve to crank it a few times to get the air out before there is enough fuel to make it run. i never had to touch my priming pump after i put the air dog on and change my stock fuel filter.
Just deleted my filter head. Took maybe 20 minutes and I just used the one factory hose to loop them. Didn't seem to make any change so Id say its all good. lol
does anyone have any pictures of their deleted setup, im getting ready to go crawl under my truck to install my air dog II
just loop the hose from the FICM to the barb fitting before the test port or use a 1/2x1/2 barb coupling with the existing hoses
Seach acronyms on this site
But for now its the Fuel Injection Control Module
It is located next to the alternator and is probably 6" x 5" silver and has 2 harness pluggs on it. It also has fuel IN/OUT on lb7 and LLYs
I bought a seal kit for the factory filter head for $15 and while I was at it trimmed 1 1/2 coils off the check ball spring. Reduces the amount of vacuum needed. I still want a lift pump and remote filter setup as a replacement but in the intrim it's an improvement to help reduce starving the pump. There's also the Nicktane filter head to run Cat filters.\
Edit: sorry didn't notice the age of this thread. Info might be helpful to someone...
Edit: sorry didn't notice the age of this thread. Info might be helpful to someone...
I deleted my filter a month or so ago. I ran 2 micron cat filters on my fass so I figured the 5 micron stock filter for $50 wasn't helping anything besides restrict flow.
I have heard that the stock filter head has a heater in it. And it looked like it did when I removed it because it had a sensor on the bottom, and a plug on the top indicating positive and negative (red and black) wires.
I'll look into the filter head assembly tomorrow and see if there is any indication of a heater integrated with it.
I have heard that the stock filter head has a heater in it. And it looked like it did when I removed it because it had a sensor on the bottom, and a plug on the top indicating positive and negative (red and black) wires.
I'll look into the filter head assembly tomorrow and see if there is any indication of a heater integrated with it.