De-Lip or not?
- Thread starter Turbo Performance
- Start date
For the record, I don't plan on de-lipping anymore than necessary. I'm not cutting to lower compression. The build will never make tons of boost or really have big chargers either. Just a reasonable small pair or parallel twins to get the job done.
Injectors will likely be sent to extrude hone to cut down on PW needed for the power level. Other than that, she'll be stock unless I hit the lottery.
If youre running parallel turbos you could potentially make a lot of power in theory just due to charger efficiency. Just something to think about. I'd spend that money on the motor over the charger setup. You can always add that later.
I realize that, but running a single turbo on a V8 in an open engine bay doesn't look right IMO. You can always gate the chargers to keep the power down. There are also quite a few cheap turbo options that make a parallel setup really inexpensive. Especially if I'm not trying to make big big power. I doubt I'll be into the entire setup half the cost of a set of rods or pistons, let alone both.
Piping and manifolds still aren't cheap. That's assuming youre tig welding all your own stuff and not paying someone.
You're also assuming I'm not flipping the factory manifolds forward and running short connector pipes to the turbos. While some of the big builds may need a header type manifold and they look awesome, I just don't see a need for them for what I'm doing. Other than the wow factor, which for the price I'll live without for the initial build.
You're also assuming I'm not flipping the factory manifolds forward and running short connector pipes to the turbos. While some of the big builds may need a header type manifold and they look awesome, I just don't see a need for them for what I'm doing. Other than the wow factor, which for the price I'll live without for the initial build.
Even still you need stainless tubing to pedestal mounts for chargers new IC tubing etc.. Cant be cheap is all I'm saying.
Because to do it right you need a new intake manifold either custom or the banks. I think its a very cool idea just don't see it being cheaper than rods.
Who are you to say what the right way is? Have you built a parallel setup? Not hating just curious.
You dont need that to run parallel turbos. all you gotta do is make a y-pipe off the two charge pipes from the chargers and run them into the intercooler. whos to say your way is right?
It's not "my way" and you could definitely y the piping if you wanted to. My only point was no matter which way you cut it a custom set up like that will cost close to what rods do. Even more if you're paying someone to build it for you.
I delipped mine Levi Troys in rigby Does awesome work an may as well balance it to made mine idle alot smoother power is smoother to IMO doesn't cost much to balance it let me know what you decided I want to see that thing when its bout done
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Intake doesn't really have anything to do with the running parallels IMO. It doesn't know how many chargers are feeding it. More than likely just do a Y pipe to join the two pipes before the engine. I've got some ideas for the intake that won't be stock but not cost an arm and a leg.
I understand what you're sayin. Not trying to argue with you, I just feel like there's more than one way to skin a cat. I don't have any desire to spend a zillion dollars on it, kind of takes the fun out of it IMO.
All aluminum Freightliner cab, sectioned 14 inches and chopped 7 inches. Just about done with the cab and getting ready to mock up for chassis. I'll build an aluminum bed to go along with it. Cab is probably in the 200lb+- range. Figure I can keep it under 2300lbs with a Duramax, 4L80E and a quick change rear.
I totally agree with you on cost thats why I always put my own stuff together. I would still use stock pistons and go with Carillos or something of the like because you will eventually want to turn it up. Just the nature of the beast.
I metioned in an earlier post that I've seen an entire set of cut and coated pistons cracked. One completely failed and upon inspection the other 7 had small cracks beginning where the valve relief and bowl meet. Best I can remember it was two cracks across from each other closest to being over the pin.
