Ya but when it's not and your trying to spool......converter only does so much cause when its locked, it does nothing to help you
Ya but when it's not and your trying to spool......converter only does so much cause when its locked, it does nothing to help you
Never really thought of it that way, some very good advice!I always tell people on the phone to build it for the 98% of the time usage if you want to be happy with it because if you build for the 2% you will not be a happy camper with the day to day driveability and usage of the truck.:thumb:
I daily a 366 with 60% injectors and dual cp3s. I love it for a daily but going bigger next year was debating a bigger single or doing a twin set up.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
If you go with a twin set up, you should run the twin set up Thomas Moore is running in his lb7! Truck runs good!
Ya but when it's not and your trying to spool......
Might put a billet wheel in my 366 and just add a 480.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
You are exactly right, the only solution to the problem is a lockup box. My truck did great spooling at the line when racing and driving around normally. The only issue I had was passing in 5th or 6th gear, It would fog the highway out. With Bens lockup box I pull out to pass manually unlock the converter, RPM's rise fast and I can easily pass with no smoke and lots of speed. This setup works but is not for everyone, I don't mind the little quirks that come with a big single, Its a blast to drive and I love it. I had to tow heavy regularly It would get old very fast.let me put it like this since we are missing info on converter/turbo in this thread that someone could take the wrong way. you are correct though
I look at this in 3 parts
A high stall converter for a big turbo is great for trying to get on top of that turbo when trying to spool it at a stop. this is where a good combo of turbine a/r, turbine wheel size, tuning and converter can make or break a big single but ONLY when staging in this case. a high stall converter can mask a bad turbo setup/tune and a good turbo setup/tune can over come a lower stall converter than most run, or any combo of the three.
when you drive the truck with the converter unlocked, (and ill probably get some terminology wrong here so help me out) you will notice that the higher stalled converter lets you hit the throttle in same gear you were just cruising in at 1500rpm and rpms will flash higher than a stock converter, thus letting you get ontop of the turbo quicker, light it off and go. No down shift needed. this can be altered though with trans tuning if you have a lower stall converter where you make the trans kick down a gear. Makes it very easy to stay above a certain RPM, accept if your in 1st gear, like a higher stalled converter would. i have seen both work really well.
finally is the issue with the converter locked. when its locked either towing or not towing and you roll into it, no stalled converter will make any difference as the converter is now locked to a 1:1 ratio with the engine. even kicking down a gear sometimes wont be enough to get right on top of that big turbo to spool it up and go, sometimes it will take 2 gears to drop. there is no more "give" from the converter anymore to make the engine rev when the throttle is hit to help get on top of that charger.
Lol really? I made almost 1000hp with a VGT in the valley and it runs awesome. It wasn't out of fuel or air but that is just where we stopped to help keep the trans alive. Made 80#'s boost to 90#'s drive pressure. 100% driveable, actually just took a 1400 mile trip to Florida and it was like driving a stock truck around.
I hate seeing you post stuff like this cause not long ago,
you were asking and stating tons of stupid crap all the time and now all the sudden you know everything about how a "performance" build should be done.