And yet that still has nothing to do with answering what gap he should use for his rings:roflmao:
Cylinder wall honing surface finish & ring gap
- Thread starter jpowel29
- Start date
And yet that still has nothing to do with answering what gap he should use for his rings:roflmao:
ok so iv just regapped all ring to 22 on the top and 24 on the second what a mission all de-burred with a stone and re-assembled
This brings a great example on the actual 'cuts' from the stone of final honing. Just because someone has a honed cylinder, doesn't mean the job is finished, like Antwon says here "de-burred" is a great thing to help not just the rings seat but to make sure there is no garbage within the cylinder accumulating in the ringlands or embedding into the ring possibly. Leakage in the basic sense due to frozen rings or damaged face.
Knowing that the Duramax has a hardened top cylinder, how close to mirror finished would this be? How does the ring's face actually look before it is placed in the piston for install? Whats the preparation for the ring face?
The guy posted in a 7 month old thread with a specific question, are you kidding me.
Does the age of the thread really matter? I think not. He obviously has gotten an answer and has proceeded to his next step. Enjoy.
How many engines have you had a cylinder wall hardness test done on before you built it?
I am curious though PA, how many different rings does MAHLE or even WISECO or maybe Fingers offer for their stuff? I haven't searched yet since I am not at the point of rings yet in my Pro Street plans.
I remember Greg saying the rings in a Dmax are square, which is better than the Cummins stocker key-stone barrel face rings so we have an advantage there.
I remember Greg saying the rings in a Dmax are square, which is better than the Cummins stocker key-stone barrel face rings so we have an advantage there.
they where the rings that came with the mahle pistons i was told they where moly as they where laser etched with an "M" on the top so its what ever come with mahles 16.3:1 comp race cast pistons they look like a good ring not like iron ones iv used on gassers at all
The race cast come with Keystone rings. They seal harder the more pressure they see, unlike standard flat rings. As such, the second ring gap should be bigger than typical. Capturing pressure between the top and second ring reduces the top ring effectiveness. Just don't get stupid with the gap.
The only difference I know of with the Mahle rings for the cast pistons was they were cast steel for a while prior to switching to the current steel (moly) rings. But I am fuzzy on the details.
FWIW, The Keystone rings are superior, but are hard on the piston ring lands. Thus the steel insert.
You should be fine with the gaps you have.
The only difference I know of with the Mahle rings for the cast pistons was they were cast steel for a while prior to switching to the current steel (moly) rings. But I am fuzzy on the details.
FWIW, The Keystone rings are superior, but are hard on the piston ring lands. Thus the steel insert.
You should be fine with the gaps you have.
Greg, if you are quoting him correctly, is wrong. Keystone. Where do you get that the square are better?
ok so iv just regapped all ring to 22 on the top and 24 on the second what a mission all de-burred with a stone and re-assembled
Looks like you got it nailed according to Fingers numbers...
so will i be ok fingers iv gone 22 on the top and 24 on the 2nd and just finished assembling the rest of the motor just about to drop it in
Relax, your fine. Finish your build.
thanks fingers my next build will have your pistons in it for sure when i buid my daily :thumb:
He is just fine with those gaps. Application determines clearances. Heat is a killer thus increased clearances are necessary to accommodate for increase expansion of metals.