I just am finishing up with the water pump on my 05 lly and I bought a 3/4 torque wrench that goes up to 300lbs. I set it to 278 ft/lbs and I can get enough into it to get it to click. So, I put my 41 inch 3/4 breaker bar on to see if I can move it but its really tight. Should I be okay to run it or should I try to get more out of it? Plus I used red loctite on the threads. Thanks
Crankshaft bolt torque?
- Thread starter trh_husker
- Start date
I've just ran them in with a 1/2 impact. But that was a comp vehicle no road time
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Should I be worrying about shearing the bolt off if I give it much?
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Considering the correct torque is 74ft lbs, then 105*, you might want to start over
Shouldn't have loctited it for future removal.. But I'm lazy.. I use a 3/4 braket bar and a 6' cheater.. I'm not a little guy but I've never broke one..
James thanks for that actual spec, I've never looked it up because I figured it was like 450 lol
James thanks for that actual spec, I've never looked it up because I figured it was like 450 lol
Thank you for the info is that with an lml I'd imagine too I'm doing mine tonight as well.
No prob Corbin. It can be a pain getting that last 15* if you don't have enough bar lol.
I'll have to look it up tomorrow but I'm 95% sure it's still the same
IIRC, I tightened mine to 275ft lbs. Its been a long time since I did though.
Alldata has it listed as 260ft/lbs.
Alldata has it listed as 260ft/lbs.
Have any tips on holding the balancer I've tried throwing wood shims in between two pulleys. So far got a 100 pounds torqued an all it wants to do is spin. Thanks for any help.
LML is listed at 74lb-ft +90° on the Merchant app, I guess they realized that 15° wasn't worth it!
As for holding the balancer, I've always locked the flywheel down.
As for holding the balancer, I've always locked the flywheel down.
For anyone torquing this down with the engine on a typical engine stand, I STRONGLY suggest supporting the bottom of the block...I didnt think it thru, l had a full long block on it...learned the hard way and bent my stand 
How are you able to lock it down? I do have the motor in the truck as well if that matters any.
they make a little flywheel holder tool. you pop the inspection cover off the bottom of the trans, stick the tool into the ring gear teeth and then have someone rotate the crank to hold it in place. then torque away.
Im reluctant to post this cuz Im sure I'll get shit for it...but, if you're in a bind you can take the starter off and set it to the side and shove a screwdriver in there and use the starter housing and flywheel/flexplate as a stop and lock it up that way...shadetree, sure, but it works
How do you think we used to do it before Lisle made that stop? The OTC tool used the starter bolts, too. BTW, a 1/2" extension works better than a screwdriver.
I bought these from thunder550 shortly after he sold his 1/2 ton Duramax along with a 36" breaker bar for a good price, he even dropped them off at my house just down the street from him. Just looking ahead its not if it's when it fails.....
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Just FYI a zf can't use the inspection cover style flywheel lock tool, have to use the one that bolts where the starter goes. Or use a pry bar through the zfs tiny inspection hole. I always just give the crank bolt the beans with a cheater bar.
I went an bought a bigger torque wrench today. I keep seeing it only needs to be 105 an then a lot of guys say 260. It was on there good taking it off with my Impact so I'm assuming it's 260.