Crank, no start LBZ swap

[Bob H]

Well, running into a wall and looking for some collective help.
Everything is swapped on my 03 from the previously swapped LLY to a full LBZ.
I do have a MATCO MaxMe scan tool which gives me just about all the Tech II functionality, but not 100%.
Here is what I have:
Wiring verified correct and checked three times per this thread:
http://www.duramaxdiesels.com/forum/showthread.php?t=27198

Initially had a security/theft light, but went through the marry procedure and it is now fully out.
In the scan section of the BCM, I can see it shows no security light illuminated, VATS shows 5.0V before moving to start and shows about 2.8 v and a Monitor Passlock after start. Not clear to me if that is normal behavior or not.

I bring that up because I suspect some issues getting it to put fuel in the system. Cranks strong but no variation in sound of partial ignition/etc.. so that is why I suspect no fuel getting put in the chambers.
Engine was tested running before it was pulled for me - still have that video.
Crank and camshaft sensors should be ok as nothing was done and harness wasn't really touched.
Fuel Injectors were flow tested before installing this motor which I also did a HG job and head studs.
So motor should be good, injectors were verified good and wiring all checks out best I can tell.

Fuel system is fully bled, no connectors appear disconnected, So I'm stuck.

Happy to answer questions and try different things.

No DTC codes that aren't expected - I see the EGR and Intake heater codes as those are removed. I do have a glow plug circuit #2 - so one glow plug must be bad, but those are the engine related ones.
Don't have the scanner history in front of me, but pretty sure all the BCM codes are now clear/not populating like when I was ensuring the BCM was married to the ECM/Key.

Ideas?

 

[ikeG]

Is it making rail pressure

 

[Bob H]

Yes, jumps up to 6-7 MPa once cranking.

 

[Bob H]

And some updates. Can signal and CKP signal both show present on cranking.

 

[ikeG]

What about injectors? Can't remember the pid, maybe us?

Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk

 

[Bob H]

I can see the main injection timing slightly varying, 3-4 deg. Balancing rates stay at -.02 mm3.
Pilot injection shows on for all injectors. I see the FPR command rate moving, jumps to low 30% range.
All these seem normal but I'm not sure how to see what you are asking, the injectors themselves, so I'm putting what data I can see. It gives me the option of engine data 1 and engine data 2, fuel data, egr data, TC data and misfire data

 

[henery97]

There should be a pid for main injection duration in us. See if that is not at zero.

 

[rfletes79]

Is the tcm plugged in? And all connections on the trans....

 

[RPM Motorsports]

On the (Black rectangle) C2 connector on the under side of the fuse box.., you moved the pair of orange wires, and the single orange wire correct?

 

[Bob H]

The MATCO MaxMe I'm using with a current GM subscription doesn't seem to have the ability to look up various PIDs. I can do a scan of the vin, and go into the various systems. Can reset ABS/SRS, reprogram the amplifier, perform specalized functions on nearly every module/system. But when I'm in the ECM section, it only gives me the options I listed above that have much of anything to do with the injection/etc... I can't find any pre-populated parameter to scan that is main injection duration. Just a little frustrating as I'm sure it exists if I could find a way to search all available PIDs. I even tried the regular EOBD scanner portion instead of the GM specific selections. The available scan items are minuscule,(~5) and I don't see an option to search for other choices.

Anyone who has experience with the MATCO scanner is much appreciated if they have some pointers.

 

[Bob H]

Yes, TCM plugged in and I can see it when scanning and can perform some functions,(not many since it has no fluid moving).
As for the C2 connector - I for sure moved the double orange wire - but you are asking about a second. Some of your instructions say move only that one, and some of your other posts reference a second. Others who did the swap only talk about the 1 double orange wire move. I seem to recall that spot was empty that I moved it to - no existing wire where the new double orange moved.
And I take no offense to questions on what should be obvious checks - it likely is something simple that is preventing it from starting.

 

[RPM Motorsports]

So this was an LB7 that was converted to LLY, and now to LBZ correct? And you changed the internal harness and mode selector inside the trans to 6spd, or used a complete 6spd trans with the LBZ swap?

The pair of orange wires would have replaced the single orange wire, and the single would move one spot over toward the outside. I’m home now, and don’t have the reference spot to call them by position sorry.

 

[Bob H]

Yes, LB7 to LLY and now LBZ. I converted my built 5 speed to a 6 speed with parts from a 6 speed and have the full LBZ harness.
Before I called it quits tonight, I actually just swapped as you said above b/c it matched the LLY C2 connector I had. No difference in starting. The change from before is the double orange is not in the A row anymore, but that single orange is. They just swapped left to right from what I originally did.

 

[Bob H]

Still won't start - if anyone knows how to get a specific PID or more than the pre-loaded ones I can find in the MATCO scanner I have, that would be great.
Baring that, I'm willing to try just about anything as everything else is done.

 

[Bob H]

Solved. Key was in initial stats I published. Cranking fuel pressure was 6-7mPA. Apparently it needs closer to 10. The Drivers side hard lines were not fully tightened - just a minor leak, but enough to bleed off the needed pressure. Tightened one I could see leaking - fired right up. Tightened the rest,(all needed some), and all is good.
Now begins the remaining reassembly to get it all working again!
Thanks for the thoughts and help!

 

[LCAC_Man]

Posting in in mPA is why everyone missed it...I didn't bother to convert it to psi until just now, yes, 1500psi is considered the proper starting pressure, less is usually a sign of worn/bypassing injectors but of course a leaking hard line give the same symptom...be thankful you have an LBZ now where you can actually see/get to those lines...had you still had the LB7 you'd have 8hrs worth of disassebly to get there and probably would have a crankcase full of fuel.
Glad you got it solved.
:thumb:

 

[Bob H]

Great note from another thread - wanted to put it here as well.
There is no "min pressure" the ECM needs to see before firing off the injectors. Rather, the internal design/springs/check valves/etc.. of the injector won't enable actual fuel to come out until it sees that ~14-1500 psi of pressure. ECM is asking it to fire, but nothing will happen until enough pressure to overcome the internal parts of the injector.