Countertops.

durallymax

New member
Apr 26, 2008
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Back to working on the house again, fun fun. Last big project inside though, Kitchen. It was pretty nasty before, 30 years old and moldy which is why everything is pretty much stored on the counters in the "before" pictures.

Don't plan on living here for much more than a couple more years so I got some mid range cabinets that seem to be good quality and are not junk. Still want a marketable house. Just over 3k for all of them made to order no install.


Anyways now I'm onto counters and I just couldn't bring myself to spend over 1k on laminate. I don't like laminate and don't think I ever will. I hate not being able to use a knife anywhere, set a hot pan anywhere or prep food anywhere.

So for whatever unknown reason I decided " hey I'll make my own stainless counters". I like stainless and have too many connections in the metal fab industry. The wife didn't like the idea because she just wants a counter and sink back but eventually I got the " Fine whatever" which was good enough for me.

Obviously I'll be using 304 and after talking to a few people it sounds like 16 gauge is the size many opt for to reduce any chance of denting even though a residential kitchen is much less abusive. I decided to spend the extra money to get a 4b finish it's not even going to add up to an extra $100 and I think the added appearance will easily be worth that.

Now my dilemmas I don't quite have sorted out.

I was planning on making my counters out of wood then wrapping that with the stainless. I hate wood but is there any reason simply using two sheets of 3/4 plywood wouldn't work well?.

I will have the sink cutout before shearing and forming the stainless. have a few buddies with CNC plasmas, one with an HD. Been told plasma makes a bit of a mess on this stuff but figured with the sink covering it up it shouldn't be a big deal and will be much cheaper and faster than waiting for someone with a laser to do it.

For the edge I just plan to have a normal square edge with 1" overhang, 1.5" thick counter and .5" wrapping under.

The backsplash I haven't decided on yet. Since I'll have a lot of waste anyways I thought about just using 5x10 sheets and having the backsplash go to the bottoms of the cabinets. This would mean cutting out for the outlets though. Any electricians know if there is anything special I would need to do with them being that close to metal? It would solve my texture/ paint issue since the old cabinets were large that the new ones there are gaps I need to re texture. The few kitchens I have seen online looked nice with the full backsplash. Otherwise I would probably just do a 4 or 5" whatever covers up what used to be there and I would probably make it an inch thick versus being flush on the wall.


My next dilemma is the one I can't seem to get any good answers out of people as they all seem to want me to spend thousands with them. The mitered corner. I will have at least one of these. I had just planned on welding it and burnishing it. With a good enough welder it shouldn't deform I would think and a nice straight burnished line won't look bad but for whatever reason the suppliers I was talking too kind of hee hawwed that idea.

I almost have to do the one miter but could get away without doing the one next to the Stove as I thought about just putting butcher block on both sides of the stove.


I'll attach some pics. Just looking for some ideas if anybody has some. Right now If I went with 16 gauge with a #4b finish I'll still only have $400 in materials.
 

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jrkrace

Member
May 4, 2008
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Connecticut
Nice idea......but....is the stainless marketable when you sell it? I just redid a kitchen in one of my rentals and to be honest, the price between granite and laminate wasn't as far apart as I thought so I went that route. Worth it to me for the fact that it makes the kitchen look updated when selling time comes..Just my .02.....
 

BUST'EM 504

Active member
Oct 7, 2009
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I work with stainless mostly 18 gauge. It is a trying metal to work with. I suggest you bend it everywhere possible ie seams and edges. Welding will blue and polishibg will leave a different finish. Short of using a water jet or shear anything will leave a nasty edge. We finish alot of commercial kitchens on the walls and corners. Usually counters are prefabbed

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I537 using Tapatalk
 

SwitchBack

New member
Sep 8, 2012
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Vermont
I would think granite would be the better option if you plan to resell. It's what most buyers are looking for.

I've never priced out polished concrete but it's something I'm going to be looking into when I buy a house this spring. Maybe something to look into.
 

DBUSHLB7

Team DMAX
Mar 9, 2012
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Albuquerque, NM
I applaud the idea of SS. I too agree that the seems will be an eyesore.
Fist question: Do you and the Mrs. even like granite? It's not as expensive as you might think, easy to template, easy to cut, and surprisingly not bad to polish on your own. Switch Back is right, buyers will be hot to trot for it. My countertops are 3/4" and cost me 1500. Install? Silicone my friend. No plywood underneath needed. The other advantage is you can cut scrap for your backsplash to the desired height.
 

mackthehack

DUH...
Apr 16, 2007
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I like the stainless idea, I like metal. But I think it might be a pain in the dick in the long run. Have you thought about silestone or other engineered quartz or recycled material? When I redid my master bath, I used used a silestone material. Looks better its cheaper and holds up better than granite.
 

DBUSHLB7

Team DMAX
Mar 9, 2012
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Albuquerque, NM

mackthehack

DUH...
Apr 16, 2007
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Good article. I'm still going to use silestone as my counter tops in my kitchen when I remodel. No one in my house hold puts hot pans or pots directly on counters or tables. We use hot pads all the time. But to each their own...:D
 

durallymax

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Apr 26, 2008
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Thanks for the tips, I am off to the restore center tomorrow to see if I can just find some cheap laminate there. I'll price the granite Monday but honestly don't care for it at all even though I know everybody else does.


Nice idea......but....is the stainless marketable when you sell it? I just redid a kitchen in one of my rentals and to be honest, the price between granite and laminate wasn't as far apart as I thought so I went that route. Worth it to me for the fact that it makes the kitchen look updated when selling time comes..Just my .02.....

Guess not everybody thinks stainless is pretty, you may be right. I think it looks new and modern and nice, but a buyer probably wants something else.

Its not a nice "upscale" house by any means, simple little 1400 sq ft 100 year old house in a small town. I kept most of the stuff fairly nuetral throughout remodeling it so it wouldn't stand out to any one specific person really.

I like the stainless idea, I like metal. But I think it might be a pain in the dick in the long run. Have you thought about silestone or other engineered quartz or recycled material? When I redid my master bath, I used used a silestone material. Looks better its cheaper and holds up better than granite.

Everything I have read says SS is the least PITA in the long run other than the fact it isn't going to look shiny and new all the time.
 

mackthehack

DUH...
Apr 16, 2007
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^^^:thumb: Yeah, some people might not like the dull finish and won't want to polish the SS. They want it shiny all the time without work...
 

DBUSHLB7

Team DMAX
Mar 9, 2012
2,789
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Albuquerque, NM
My Mom used to have her own commercial kitchen for her catering business. Needless to say everything in it was SS. Though I was much younger, I still remember thinking how cool and industrial everything looked. I think you're onto a cool idea, I wish I had more knowledge of metal fab and how to achieve the smooth bends for 90deg corners.

Don't give up if this is truly your desire. See it through!
 

jlawles2

Well-known member
Jan 28, 2010
1,059
40
48
Danbury, TX
For the elect sockets, move them to the bottom of the cabinets. did that in our kitchen remodel last year. Nice not having sockets and plugs in the backsplash.

Break the backsplash if possible. Miter cut all the corners to make them look even if possible.

If your get a 5 x sheet of stainless and shear it and break the front 1-1/4" (pretty standard around here), then break the rest for the backsplash. That should give about 4" for the backsplash. I don't think breaking it under the counter is a good idea as it gives water and mold a place to hide.
 

MaxnSam

DIY
Sep 17, 2013
35
0
0
Henderson
Check out if you have any stainless shops in town that do restaurants ,they can make corners any way you want.. Hard to do if you don't have the right press and the right die
 

mike diesel

I'm alright.
Sep 6, 2012
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SLC, Utah
I did cabinets for the last 5 years (old job) and in that entire time we never once did a SS counter top. We did a few stainless butler pantries but never anything out in plain sight. I don't think stainless would be that great for an entire kitchen big or small.
 

MaxnSam

DIY
Sep 17, 2013
35
0
0
Henderson
My parents house and all the houses in our area had SS counter tops, but they were built in the 40's to 50's. My aunt's house still has a SS top and it has seen better days , but she still loves it.
 

durallymax

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Apr 26, 2008
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Under The Hood
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Didn't turn out bad. Not sure where the 1100 quote came from. Ended up being 600 installed.

Still gotta fix all the drywall and texture it then paint the kitchen. Swap the outlets to newer look, finish plumbing for sink, install over range microwave, new lights and new blinds. Didn't get knobs on drawers because I needed longer screws. Replacing window above sink this spring then I'll put matching trim on. Missing the piece between cabinets by other window too. Lots of little things but it's functional now.
 
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