coolant in the oil....

[danzick]

still!!!! What an easy fix!

Double check the rockers and pushrods. Iirc the oil can’t get to them if it’s upside down… or that’s a different engine I’m thinking of

I bet you're right. I'll check it over good. I have a spare set of rockers and what not from the other engine.

 

[danzick]

Not going to pile on. Glad you found it. Glad you didnt have to pull engine.

I did pull the engine.... im ok with that though. its much easier to work on not in the truck. plus, I pulled the oil pans and im able to clean all of the coolant out. I did cave and pull a main bearing to check it. wish I wouldn't have because it looked fine. You can still see all of the light scratch marks from measuring with a dial bore gauge. Now ill be hoping the dealer has a couple of main bolts.

 

[Chevy1925]

I did pull the engine.... im ok with that though. its much easier to work on not in the truck. plus, I pulled the oil pans and im able to clean all of the coolant out. I did cave and pull a main bearing to check it. wish I wouldn't have because it looked fine. You can still see all of the light scratch marks from measuring with a dial bore gauge. Now ill be hoping the dealer has a couple of main bolts.

You can re-use them. You have to follow the torque spec when checking clearances and if you were to throw them away after that, you could technically have a different reading with new bolts. They ain’t that equal to each other.

 

[danzick]

Hm... I thought they were tty? I actually used my old bolts when I measured for clearance.

 

[Chevy1925]

Hm... I thought they were tty? I actually used my old bolts when I measured for clearance.

They are but you are better off using the new ones to measure clearance, then do your final assembly with them. Many years ago, guy gave me a lot of info on how many times the stock TTY bolts can be cycled before clamping force is reduced. Iirc main cap bolts were good for 5 cycles.

 

[danzick]

Cool alright. I hope it wasn't a mistake using my old bolts to measure. I believe my Haynes manual said to do it that way.

 

[Bdsankey]

Glad you found the issue! Plus its a good reason to get rid of those GM gold gaskets

 

[danzick]

What do you guys think of this surface? It's smooth and feels clean. The stains won't wipe off and I really don't want to start scuffing my freshly decked block with scotch Brite.

 

[2004LB7]

can you feel it?

 

[danzick]

no

 

[Chevy1925]

Slap some 01-10 gaskets on it and good to go.

 

[danzick]

well its getting the gm 01-16. I want to run B gaskets, for my protrusion, and Mahle B grade gaskets are pretty hard to find. I know people cry about how bad they are, but im hoping with new freshly decked heads and block and ARP studs ill be alright. Hell if i get 20k miles out of them, thats like 15 years of driving for me and this truck haha.

 

[Chevy1925]

well its getting the gm 01-16. I want to run B gaskets, for my protrusion, and Mahle B grade gaskets are pretty hard to find. I know people cry about how bad they are, but im hoping with new freshly decked heads and block and ARP studs ill be alright. Hell if i get 20k miles out of them, thats like 15 years of driving for me and this truck haha.

That’s 11-16 gaskets (gold ones).

I’ll cross my fingers for you. Mine didn’t last and many many others didn’t as well. I’d rather run a C 01-10 than to run the slightly less quench and have high potential hg issues. Hell, that gasket being backwards could be telling you “don’t use me!” Lol

 

[danzick]

lol thats pretty much what brad said. I made quite a few calls and hadnt found any shops that have had trouble with them recently. Brad had a C, right, but i didnt want a B on one side and C on the other.

 

[Chevy1925]

lol thats pretty much what brad said. I made quite a few calls and hadnt found any shops that have had trouble with them recently. Brad had a C, right, but i didnt want a B on one side and C on the other.

Why? What’s your protrusion? You know there is a ton of factory trucks with an A on one side and B on the other, or C and B. It’s really not uncommon if the p to h clearance isn’t getting retarded

 

[danzick]

lowest was .005 and highest was .008

 

[Chevy1925]

lowest was .005 and highest was .008

need numbers for both sides and the side you yanked the HG on.

 

[Bdsankey]

lol thats pretty much what brad said. I made quite a few calls and hadnt found any shops that have had trouble with them recently. Brad had a C, right, but i didnt want a B on one side and C on the other.

If it were my truck I'd be pulling those shitty GM gold gaskets out and putting Mahle in but thats my opinion. The GM gold gasket is known to be absolute crap. Hell, I've seen 2 posts this week on FB where guys had head gaskets done and in 6-24mo had issues..........

Why? What’s your protrusion? You know there is a ton of factory trucks with an A on one side and B on the other, or C and B. It’s really not uncommon if the p to h clearance isn’t getting retarded

^Yup, happens all the time when I do HG jobs. Don't get me wrong, I have used my fair share of C gaskets or shipped kits with C gaskets but it's super easy (on a not new motor) to look at what was pulled off and replace with like thickness.

 

[danzick]

They were pretty much even across both sides within a couple of thousandths. I'm curious where are they failing?

 

[Bdsankey]

They were pretty much even across both sides within a couple of thousandths. I'm curious where are they failing?

My guess is poor construction/quality. I've done quite a few LML HG jobs whereas the riveted 06-10 gaskets I've seen far less failures from. We haven't done thousands of HG jobs by any means, just what I've seen roll through as well as what kits I've sent out to customers overall.