LLY: Control arm bushings

FROGMAN524

FROGMAN524

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Jul 17, 2010
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Going to be helping my step dad replace all his front end parts on a 2005 LLY CCSB 4x4. We are doing the shocks, stabilizer, pitman and idler with supports, tie rods, sway bar bushings and end links, ball joints upper and lower as well as upper and lower control arm bushings. Additionally, we are doing the thermostats and just did the GM injector cleaner procedure as well.

Can anyone tell me if I need to unload the torsion bars to remove the LCAs? What's the procedure for that if I have to do it? Also, how do I remove the LCA and UCA bushings?

Lastly, can I use the ball joint press as a torsion bar unloading tool?

Thanks!



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M

mac2881994

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Oct 17, 2009
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I just did the same replacements yesterday. If you are removing the lower control arms then the torsion bars will have to be unloaded. It is possible to change the lower ball joints with the lower arms still installed. Just make sure the spindle, rotor and caliper chunk is well supported so it doesn't fall while removing the lower ball joints or you will be replacing the front brake lines also.

I don't believe you will be able to use your ball joint press to unload the torsion keys. I think the screw on the ball joint press will be too big to fit on the key. If it is small enough to fit then it probably wont be strong enough to press out the ball joints.
 
FROGMAN524

FROGMAN524

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Jul 17, 2010
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Ok great. Any tips for the LCA and UCS bushing removal?


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FROGMAN524

FROGMAN524

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Ok great. Any tips for the LCA and UCA bushing removal?


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chrisuns

chrisuns

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I would advise renting a torsion bar unloading tool - they have a nub on one end that helps secure the tool during use. I wouldn't mess around trying to use a ball-joint.

Some may even tell you to detach the LCA from the spindle and lower the LCA with a jack to unload the bars, again; that's something I wouldn't do either - too much can go wrong and it is quicker to do it the right way.

I recently replaced all the bushing on my truck with poly, I personally opted to use a propane torch and burn the bushing out vs using a press. It's messy, but the average person doesn't keep the proper press cups to do the job.

Also, make sure you clean out the bushing surface in the arms (I used a 120-240 grit sanding flap-wheel for a dremel), they normally have a build up of gunk that can damage the new bushings and cause squeaking; not to mention making it a pita to get the bushing in there.
 
jpowel29

jpowel29

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For the price you can buy new control arms with new ball joints already installed it makes it a tougher call to just do ball joints and/or control arm bushings separate anymore.
 
c20elephant

c20elephant

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Apr 25, 2013
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chrisuns said:
I would advise renting a torsion bar unloading tool - they have a nub on one end that helps secure the tool during use. I wouldn't mess around trying to use a ball-joint.

Some may even tell you to detach the LCA from the spindle and lower the LCA with a jack to unload the bars, again; that's something I wouldn't do either - too much can go wrong and it is quicker to do it the right way.

I recently replaced all the bushing on my truck with poly, I personally opted to use a propane torch and burn the bushing out vs using a press. It's messy, but the average person doesn't keep the proper press cups to do the job.

Also, make sure you clean out the bushing surface in the arms (I used a 120-240 grit sanding flap-wheel for a dremel), they normally have a build up of gunk that can damage the new bushings and cause squeaking; not to mention making it a pita to get the bushing in there.
Click to expand...


Did you leave the outer shell of the original bushing in place, or did I read that for the leaf spring bushings.?





Most of the new UCA's and LCA's are manufactured elsewhere, might want to consider aftermarket upper LCA's cognito or kryptonite and just replace the ball joint and bushings in the lowers.
 
Last edited:
motoking_1990

motoking_1990

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May 9, 2011
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When I did my front end, I also burnt out the control arm bushings. It makes some smoke but it got the job done. We had a press and it wouldn't even budge them. We had all the right tools in the shop but these wouldn't move. Iirc when you take the bolt out of the torsion bars there isn't much tension on them. When we took the lca off it took the rest of the tension off.
Also a tip, we didn't take the torsion bars off the lca. I installed lift keys. We had the lca loose and used a pneumatic chisel gun on the back of the torsion bar by the key and the bar came right out. I am installing lowering keys this weekend so it should refresh my memory.

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mac2881994

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c20elephant said:
May have to replace mine at some point, mac2881994 what did you use stock replacements or a polyurethane type from Energy Suspension.?
Click to expand...

new Kryptonite UCAs came with poly bushings. I did not remove the lower arms so they still have the stock rubber bushings installed.
I put in the full Kryptonite stage 3 kit with new lower ball joints also. Upper arms came with new upper ball joints.
 
chrisuns

chrisuns

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The leaf spring shells I beat out with a drift and hammer. However you do re-use the UCA inner sleeve and the little circular pieces on the ends of the sleeve - I can't recall what you call them, lol.
 
AJH

AJH

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Sep 7, 2015
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jpowel29 said:
For the price you can buy new control arms with new ball joints already installed it makes it a tougher call to just do ball joints and/or control arm bushings separate anymore.
Click to expand...

This would be my answer. I have done several ucas and never a single ubj or bushing it's just not worth my time. I have done lbjs though but that's because I have never seen a bad lower bushing. JMO I'm not a professional by any means just lend a hand to anybody with a duramax that asks.
 
whitetrash21

whitetrash21

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Push them out
picture.php


Push the new ones in
picture.php
 
2004LB7

2004LB7

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Dec 15, 2010
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when i did my lift i was able to unload the torsion bars by lowering/rotating the lower control arm down far enough. was pretty easy.

take out the torsion bar adjusting bolt, hold the lower control arm up with a jack (dont forget to support the vehicle with jack stands at another location too). unbolt the lower control arm from the knuckle and break it free. now lower the jack and the torsion bar will be slowly unloaded. reverse process to reload the bars
 
FROGMAN524

FROGMAN524

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Jul 17, 2010
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Thanks for the help guys. Already got the new ball joints and bushings so new arms is not an option.

I will try the bottle jack and socket for removal and if that doesn't work I'll burn them out. For reinstall with the new bushings I'll try a large vice first and if that doesn't work I'll try the floor jack and receiver trick.


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LBZ

LBZ

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For all the work and labour involved, for the extra $150 or so per side for ac delco stuff I would just buy the complete arms already built with ball joints, bushings etc. But that's just me.

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FROGMAN524

FROGMAN524

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Jul 17, 2010
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LBZ said:
For all the work and labour involved, for the extra $150 or so per side for ac delco stuff I would just buy the complete arms already built with ball joints, bushings etc. But that's just me.

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Click to expand...



Fair enough but already have all the separate parts.
 
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