I have a '08 K2500 Sierra HD with crew cab and 6.5 foot bed. Can I tow a fifth wheel camper? I know hat if you tow for FEMA you have t have a 8 foot bed, can I tow a fifth wheel with a 6-1/2 foot bed?
Considering towing a 5th wheel camper, what do I need to know
- Thread starter dzimbric
- Start date
yes you can. as said above, your trailer will dictate whether you need a sliding hitch or not. most of the time, you will.
As stated above, I've towed my 5th wheel camper many times as well as my gooseneck trailers. A sliding hitch certainly helps for maneuvering in tight spaces but you are not intended to leave it slid rearward while traveling as that will put the load too far behind the axle.
Having towed without a slider for a bit it's hell once you're used to a slider. For example, backing into my camping space when I didn't have my slider was a pain, backing in with the slider made life cake.
Having towed without a slider for a bit it's hell once you're used to a slider. For example, backing into my camping space when I didn't have my slider was a pain, backing in with the slider made life cake.
Another piece of advice with a fifth wheel. I find the reaction time for camper to move where you want it to go is slower while backing up. Fifths swivel on the hitch whereas bumper hitches push the front of camper over when turning.
I’m sure a sliding hitch would help a bit in this situation. I am getting used to it as I have to back my camper about 200’ into my driveway from the highway.
I don’t have a sliding hitch as my buddy said he has never needed with his 6.5’ box. Dealer also said it wasn’t really needed. Ultimately they would be better though.
2013 Sierra SLE 2500HD Crew Cab
I’m sure a sliding hitch would help a bit in this situation. I am getting used to it as I have to back my camper about 200’ into my driveway from the highway.
I don’t have a sliding hitch as my buddy said he has never needed with his 6.5’ box. Dealer also said it wasn’t really needed. Ultimately they would be better though.
2013 Sierra SLE 2500HD Crew Cab
Air bags help with the dolphining you might get, depending on the tongue weight. I do a double tow, like catman, and the airbags help out a lot. I've been towing a 5th wheel for about 18 years and I've only needed my slider once. This was on my older 5th with a square front nose. Couldn't 90 degree it without it. My present 5th, with a rounded front nose, I can. As catman said about the reaction is correct. A tip for backing up the 5th wheel that I learned from an old timer. Look at the tires on the trailer and where you want them to go. Don't look at the rear of the trailer as much to where you want to go. This helped me a lot.
its up to you. i dont run them on mine. i dont like the way airbags combind with leafs ride either
Regarding the slider hitch,
Yes, that's a definite and good option.
Another, and the route I went with, is to simply mount the brackets so that the hitch is further rearward in the bed, enough so to clear whatever trailer you'll be pulling. Most sliders have ~12" travel. The typical mounting advice is for the pin to be 2" in front of the axle when towing. For the trailer(s) that I pull, I only needed ~4" additional to clear the cab. So instead of fumbling with a slider (and/or forgetting to move it and busting out a rear window), I just mounted the brackets roughly 2" behind the axle (so about 4" further rearward than 'suggested'). Plenty of clearance for what I tow.
Contrary to what you'll read in a lot of places online, it tows just fine. Even if you're maxed out on pin weight (which would be dumb - you should be pulling with a dually in that situation), it's still WAY less de-weighting of the front tires than would happen even with a modest load on a traditional bumper-pull.
If you don't know what you'll be towing, the slider will be the smarter / more universal option. It's just more money, more aggravating to adjust every time you need to back, and don't forget it!
As for air bags, I'm a big fan (with my truck being lowered quite a bit, I kinda have to). But they're not really necessary with a modest load.
Yes, that's a definite and good option.
Another, and the route I went with, is to simply mount the brackets so that the hitch is further rearward in the bed, enough so to clear whatever trailer you'll be pulling. Most sliders have ~12" travel. The typical mounting advice is for the pin to be 2" in front of the axle when towing. For the trailer(s) that I pull, I only needed ~4" additional to clear the cab. So instead of fumbling with a slider (and/or forgetting to move it and busting out a rear window), I just mounted the brackets roughly 2" behind the axle (so about 4" further rearward than 'suggested'). Plenty of clearance for what I tow.
Contrary to what you'll read in a lot of places online, it tows just fine. Even if you're maxed out on pin weight (which would be dumb - you should be pulling with a dually in that situation), it's still WAY less de-weighting of the front tires than would happen even with a modest load on a traditional bumper-pull.
If you don't know what you'll be towing, the slider will be the smarter / more universal option. It's just more money, more aggravating to adjust every time you need to back, and don't forget it!
As for air bags, I'm a big fan (with my truck being lowered quite a bit, I kinda have to). But they're not really necessary with a modest load.
My bed is 6.5'.
I run a slider, only slide it one time, towed thousands of miles.
I will be converting mine to a gooseneck. I hate having the hitch taking up the whole bed of the truck. I run AirLift 5000 bags with the wireless onboard air. My fifth wheel requires different air pressure settings than if I'm hauling my skidsteer or backhoe on the gooseneck trailer. But all my stuff is heavy, bags help a lot.
I run a slider, only slide it one time, towed thousands of miles.
I will be converting mine to a gooseneck. I hate having the hitch taking up the whole bed of the truck. I run AirLift 5000 bags with the wireless onboard air. My fifth wheel requires different air pressure settings than if I'm hauling my skidsteer or backhoe on the gooseneck trailer. But all my stuff is heavy, bags help a lot.
Next upgrade to the RV;
genyhitch.com
5th Wheel Pin Box Replacement with Gooseneck Coupler (Manual Latch)
The GEN-Y Hitch EXECUTIVE 5th Wheel Pin Box Replacement with Gooseneck Coupler allows the user to hook a Fifth Wheel RV to the truck with a gooseneck ball.
genyhitch.com
Next upgrade to the RV;
5th Wheel Pin Box Replacement with Gooseneck Coupler (Manual Latch)
The GEN-Y Hitch EXECUTIVE 5th Wheel Pin Box Replacement with Gooseneck Coupler allows the user to hook a Fifth Wheel RV to the truck with a gooseneck ball.
just make sure the gooseneck adapter doesn't stick out further or provides more leverage than the original hitch. a lot of 5th wheel trailers aren't built as strong as gooseneck and can't take the extra stress for long before the welds start to crack. many manufacturers won't warranty this conversation
Yes, I am aware.
I converted my last RV with an Anderson. My son owns and still uses that RV.
My current rig is out of any warranty period and honestly, I have no faith in those anyway.
It's difficult to explain without standing next to the two RVs, but I would never convert my current one, the way I did my old one. If you exam the pin boxes, the frames and the way they attach, you can see what is acceptable or "correct".
At least I feel comfortable that I can.
The old rig still has the pin box it was born with, the current rig will get a completely new one from GEN Y.
the anderson setup still isnt really like a true goose hitch though. i have one on mine. it does elimiate the whole pin box issue though.
if you change the whole pin box out to a goose, its a non issue. its just those damn adapters on the king pin that fuck shit up.
I have a 2014 2500 HD. How can I tell when my brake controller is set right? I'm not used to such a thing.
When the trailer stops itself without locking up the wheels.
I like to increase the force until it locks up then back it off until it doesn't anymore. You want the trailer to pull the truck just a little when braking. Or in other words, the truck isn't having to stop the trailer. This will be different for each type of road. Dirt roads will usually be less then highways. Same for weather. Rain or snow. Wet or dry. So you sometimes need to adjust it mid route
Set right you can activate the brake controller without touching the truck brakes and feel the trailer pulling on the truck. This can be helpful if you experience trailer sway
I like to increase the force until it locks up then back it off until it doesn't anymore. You want the trailer to pull the truck just a little when braking. Or in other words, the truck isn't having to stop the trailer. This will be different for each type of road. Dirt roads will usually be less then highways. Same for weather. Rain or snow. Wet or dry. So you sometimes need to adjust it mid route
Set right you can activate the brake controller without touching the truck brakes and feel the trailer pulling on the truck. This can be helpful if you experience trailer sway