Clunking in 4wd Forward or reverse...about every 5 feet (lb7)

[JayhawkLB7]

Hey good morning ya'll. We are about to do our annual 2 week Gunnison trip, so naturally ole Magelina has decided to break on the eve of our trip (last year: cooling stack, previous year Injectors, Year before: sheared Crank key. So on).

I went to engage 4wd as a part of my annual testing and it engaged just fine, however, I get a clunk (physically and audibly noticeable) when accelerating even a touch going forward or backward. If I let it idle it's way down the street: no issue. As soon as I put any force on it, it will clunk about every 5-6 seconds, probably increasing with speed but haven't tried as I don't want to push it.

I replaced most of the front suspension about 6 months ago and I"m not sure if I've used 4wd since to be honest. In 2WD all is normal. I didn't replace the CV Joints but they look good and don't play inappropriately. I've topped off my front diff fluid as a starter to no avail.

Any ideas? Transfer case? U-Joints? Something else? Thanks. Here we go again on a "hurry up and help: I'm an idiot" post, haha. THanks in advance yall.

 

[TheBac]

Moved to TC/axles section

 

[2004LB7]

Does your transfer case have pump rub issues?

 

[JayhawkLB7]

Does your transfer case have pump rub issues?

2 hours ago I would have said that I do not have reason to believe so but...

Yes. It appears I indeed have a significant pump rub problem. So I don't think I can get that rear casing and kit done or even into my garage in the next 48 hours. We leave Tuesday morning at 6:00 a.m.

Anyone had temporary success with JB weld on the outside there.

 

[JayhawkLB7]

Does your transfer case have pump rub issues?

That being said, I did fill it up and immediately try leaving in four-wheel drive while I know there was fluid in there... I'm assuming it's not the fluid that is the problem but probably definitely the transfer case?

 

[JayhawkLB7]

So I went ahead and fashioned myself some steel stick JB weld. Gave it a couple hours and am now going to go give it a shot to see about leakage. This gets me over monarch pass and into Gunnison and back over these next two weeks, I will be a happy camper and get a better look at the four-wheel drive problem when we get home.

 

[Chevy1925]

Cross your fingers you didn’t kill the bearings inside and it doesn’t lock up on ya. I’ve seen some guys go forever after the tcase ran dry and others not make it very far.

But yes, if it’s caught fast enough jb weld can get you by for a while. We just don’t know how long yours has been that way

 

[Chevy1925]

That being said, I did fill it up and immediately try leaving in four-wheel drive while I know there was fluid in there... I'm assuming it's not the fluid that is the problem but probably definitely the transfer case?

Yes, you have hurt parts inside. If your lucky, it’s just the mode fork and collar. If you ain’t, it’s not going to be a cheap fox

 

[JayhawkLB7]

Yeah, certainly crossing my fingers.

 

[DAVe3283]

I ran with JB weld on mine for almost a year before I got it repaired.

Sent from my FlashScan V2 using Tapatalk

 

[JayhawkLB7]

I'll look for some videos later today, but has anybody had any experience rebuilding the whole thing? I've seen some stuff out there with stretched chains etc... I'm guessing taking this to a shop is going to be a 1500 to $2,000 affair. Hoping I can get into it for significantly less.

 

[TheBac]

James had a writeup somewhere in this section when he rebuilt his Tcase.

Pump-rub is very common. Very surprising you (or anyone else who owns one of these trucks) did not know about it.

 

[Chevy1925]

I'll look for some videos later today, but has anybody had any experience rebuilding the whole thing? I've seen some stuff out there with stretched chains etc... I'm guessing taking this to a shop is going to be a 1500 to $2,000 affair. Hoping I can get into it for significantly less.

No one has a spec on how much chain stretch is ok. I never had my chain pop teeth at 200k so left it.

I had around 500 in just parts to fix mine and all it got was seals, rear output bearing, mode forks and updated collars and few other little things. That was 2017 or 18 pricing though. I also had the pump rub plate already and the updated rear case half (it was done years before but my mode fork finally wore out and wouldn’t go into 4lo)

 

[TheBac]

Not sure of the quality of these videos, but its what I found on a search.

Source: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iOaNH79A8ec

Source: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xtUdHBsuh_U

Source: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wRB6fYItfqY


As for parts, google "263xhd transfer case parts" and go from there.

 

[JayhawkLB7]

Yeah, I was absolutely aware of it. As of 3 months ago there was no hole. I do have happened sometime since early March. I think that's when I last did differentials, t case, tranny, oil.

I guess in hindsight I should have ordered the kitten advance but... Always something going on and I'm often behind schedule rather than ahead of it.

 

[JayhawkLB7]

As for parts, google "263xhd transfer case parts" and go from there.

Hey thanks a ton. I did see these videos and was going to watch through them later. I've got about 36 hours before we take the fifth wheel along damn way so again I'll have to just go fingers crossed and keep an eye on it. Have a tube of steel stick in the glove compartment just in case.

 

[jlawles2]

if you are still looking I ran across these guys a while back when looking for parts: http://www.transfercases.com/transfer-case-models.htm#Chevy i think you can get the whole thing cheaper than someone rebuilding yours.

 

[Ron Nielson]

When my son was a teenager and purchased his first truck, a Dodge with a stick shift. He jacked up his truck under the trans thinking it would be OK to do so. It cracked the case, a little. He put JBWeld on it and it never leaked a drop.