Checking for proper pinion preload without axle disassembly?

[Dozerboy]

I had to replace the pinion seal on my 2500 gasser. I marked the nut and yoke, but wasn’t quite able to get the nut tighten up to where it was. I did everything my 140lbs could with an 18” breaker bar and even hit it a little with my cheap 1/2 impact. I got the truck used so I don’t know if someone’s been in there before me. I just wanted to see how I migh be rify where I’m at. The only way I know to check pinion preload is 10-15 in lbs drag normally without the ring gear or axles. Is that still a good range with the axle together? Probably remove the brake calipers to make sure they ain’t dragging. Any other advice or suggestions?

I’m going to attach a picture of the yoke I’m curious if the sealant on it looks factory or not. I didn’t think GM did that factory.

 

[dylon333]

Finally some thing I can you advice on for a change.

In that situation I usually will check the drag of the slop if that makes sense. No it’s not as accurate but have done a bunch this way when replacing seals


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[dndj]

Finally some thing I can you advice on for a change.

In that situation I usually will check the drag of the slop if that makes sense. No it’s not as accurate but have done a bunch this way when replacing seals

That's a good idea.

A factory manual for an older Dodge truck I had described a method for pinon seal replacement. Basically made a measurement of the rotational drag with an inch-lb beam type torque wrench before disassembly. After the seal was replaced, they had you tighten the pinion yoke nut back to this same drag plus a couple of inch-lbs. If you don't have the measurement before disassembly though, this approach isn't helpful.

 

[Chevy1925]

To do it right, axles and diff have to come out. Used pinion bearings are going to be in the 2-5in/lbs area. Tighter is not good as your bearings were tight when new and have worn in now.

Something ain’t right if you are that far off and cranked that hard. The crush sleeve ain’t that strong. Did you possibly move the mark from the pinion or something? Can you move the pinion in and out or up and down at all with it that tight? Sometimes the pinion nuts cross thread or gall up, maybe it’s not tight?

 

[Dozerboy]

To do it right, axles and diff have to come out. Used pinion bearings are going to be in the 2-5in/lbs area. Tighter is not good as your bearings were tight when new and have worn in now.

Something ain’t right if you are that far off and cranked that hard. The crush sleeve ain’t that strong. Did you possibly move the mark from the pinion or something? Can you move the pinion in and out or up and down at all with it that tight? Sometimes the pinion nuts cross thread or gall up, maybe it’s not tight?

Part of the problem is I’m not quite sure how far off I am. I counted 13 turns and only got 11 and 3/4. Which could be explained a few ways. It ain’t tight, I flipped the yoke 180*, or I counted wrong since i’m dyslexic and do that sometimes. Not sure I’m too worried about being one turn off because the threads protruding past the nut look the same as before I started, so me miss counting might be the most likely culprit.

The pinion is tight I believe. I’m going to try and measure the drag in the slop and re-verify that there is no slop in the yolk today.

 

[jlawles2]

If all you replaced was the seal, then the number of threads should be the same. If you need extra, use the floor jack (been there done that) with the rear e-brake set. Most likely you miss counted but the marks should still align.

 

[Chevy1925]

Part of the problem is I’m not quite sure how far off I am. I counted 13 turns and only got 11 and 3/4. Which could be explained a few ways. It ain’t tight, I flipped the yoke 180*, or I counted wrong since i’m dyslexic and do that sometimes. Not sure I’m too worried about being one turn off because the threads protruding past the nut look the same as before I started, so me miss counting might be the most likely culprit.

The pinion is tight I believe. I’m going to try and measure the drag in the slop and re-verify that there is no slop in the yolk today.

its going to include ring gear drag as backlash is probably in the .008-.010 range. the slop is spider and axle splines not engaging. no idea what to guess on that.

hopefully its not overtighten at this point.

 

[Dozerboy]

No play what so ever in the pinion. The weight of the 1/4” Torque wrench was enough to take up the slop in the pinion (I believe). Then it felt like to take up the slop in the ring/spider gear it was 5-7 in lbs. Obviously this is far from a definite answer that something isn’t screwed up. I feel with the information you guys provided and what I’m seeing I’m probably OK. I will try the floor jack to get the last little bit out of it since I probably miss counted. For sure it’s not over tightened it doesn’t seem like.

I’m guessing I just need to pay attention to make sure the pinion bearings don’t fail. It they do I can hopefully catch it before it damages the gears.

 

[mopar3]

What rear axle is it the yoke looks like an AAM one. Is it a 10.5 AAM? With an 18" breaker bar I doubt you have over tightened it. I would take a 1/2 drive torque wrench and tighten it up to 200 ftlbs. You will not be able to crush the collar at 200 but it will be enough to be sure you have fully seated the yoke. I'm pretty sure Dodge list a spec for turning torque with the diff installed axles removed. I'll look around and see. That white sealer is factory. I have done hundreds of pinion seals and on the bigger axles dana 80 or aam 11.5 I would crank the pinion nut on with 4 ft 3/4 drive ratchet and you can feel it tightening up as you turn it and then it will stop. That's when you are against the collar. At that point another 1/8 turn is it. Dana 110 has pinon shims and nut gets sent on with the 3/4 gun turned down to 2 or 3.

 

[Chevy1925]

^^ solid pinion spacers are so much nicer once the preload is set with the shims

 

[mopar3]

Also should have a new nut on that. If no new nut then red loctite.

 

[mopar3]

I wanna say the torque spec on the dana 110 is 800 ftlbs. We have a torque wrench that goes to 1000 but nothing made up that I trust to hold the yoke.