Changing head gaskets. Advise?
- Thread starter Norcaldrifter
- Start date
I didn't have to dent the firewall I just dropped the back stud in the head before I placed it in the block
I know $3900 is allot of money and you dont want to spend that much, but is that really high for the job? Head studs alone are around $600.00 I think and then you have head gaskets and probably some other gaskets and seals also. What about machining the heads? Not to mention its a time consuming job, I would think it would take at least 16-24 hrs? change oil, antifreeze, etc.
I don't think it is a bad price the job is not fun. The Duramax heads are not supposed to be machined although people do it I would just make sure they are not warped if they check out okay put them back on.
It will be give or take $1000 in parts with the heads studs. If you have not done it before it will take longer than a weekend
It seemed like mine took like a month but I was working on it after work and waiting on parts
It will be give or take $1000 in parts with the heads studs. If you have not done it before it will take longer than a weekend
It seemed like mine took like a month but I was working on it after work and waiting on parts
Its a 1060.00 shipped for all the parts HG's o ring exhaust gaskets thats needed injector seals and ARP studs and the o rings for the injector cups also.
No you don't.
Or I just got a LB7 cab that had a preformed dent in it when I did HG's...
Head gaskets
I would pull the motor. It will be so much simpler and you can CLEAN and TQ everything like it needs to be. I normally get 3k to do one with everything but I always put a new water pump also. It is a lot of work and you don't want to do it twice. Jeff
I would pull the motor. It will be so much simpler and you can CLEAN and TQ everything like it needs to be. I normally get 3k to do one with everything but I always put a new water pump also. It is a lot of work and you don't want to do it twice. Jeff
X2 , when you pull the motor , the job turns out so much better and def a new water pump is a must, I wont do them in the truck ever again. And on the cost I am about the same cost as posted to do the Job right, and give a proper warranty , ect .
Whats the difference?
Put the stud in the head before you install the head on the block and your fine.
What are good runners going for at wrecking yards down there? I know I got a great deal on my spare but it allowed me to do the head gaskets over last winter and enjoy the project while still using my truck. Now I have the spare to play with too
I got a month to get this done. I should have my race car back together so I can drive that for a bit while I work on my truck. So no machine shop? Just pull heads and replace? My other question in for the injector cups can I pull the heads without them in and reseat them off the engine? Also do I need a special tool to remove them?
yes you will need a tool for removing them, unless they are all stuck to the injectors.You can pull the heads without them in and put them back in the heads with it off the motor.
I would suggest pulling the motor or cab less room for error.
I would suggest pulling the motor or cab less room for error.
how hard is it to pull the cab on our trucks? as far as pulling connections and what not
Its pretty simple, all of the hoses that connect to the radiator stack need to be disconnected, parking brake and shift cable, steering shaft, the wiring is intimidating but pretty simple, most of it can be disconnected at the fuse box and left either with the frame or cab. Theres some grounds here and there that need to be disconnected and then there are the bolts that hold it to the frame, then with some finesse its up in the air and you can roll the chassis ahead to work on it. I like to remove the front tires and set the front on jack stands, and remove the bumper. This gives you more room to work.
Removing the cab is quicker than removing the motor, but you still have to work on it in the frame. Some people prefer to work on it on an engine stand or dont have a lift to remove the cab.
Removing the cab is quicker than removing the motor, but you still have to work on it in the frame. Some people prefer to work on it on an engine stand or dont have a lift to remove the cab.
No dents are required, no you don't have to pull the cab or motor. They are all just very good suggestions for saving time and effort. You can do it in the truck, not to bad, not easy but not bad. There is step by step instructions on everything for this job here, http://www.duramaxdiesels.com/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=97
just search for your truck , there is one for headgaskets, one for injectors, all the torque specs and sealant required and what to put it on. It will take an average mechanic with expirence on dmaxs a good weekend with little sleep and peanut butter sandwiches for meals:thumb: to do it in the truck. On average it takes 3-6 hours to pull the motor but it makes the job alot better for access. I wish I had pulled the motor this last time but I did it in the truck. Just depends on you, its alot harder leaning over and climbing over stuff to do it in the truck but it can be done.
side note: Do not drop a stainless headstud in the water jacket hole on the back drivers side-its a b@t$c* to get it back out!
just search for your truck , there is one for headgaskets, one for injectors, all the torque specs and sealant required and what to put it on. It will take an average mechanic with expirence on dmaxs a good weekend with little sleep and peanut butter sandwiches for meals:thumb: to do it in the truck. On average it takes 3-6 hours to pull the motor but it makes the job alot better for access. I wish I had pulled the motor this last time but I did it in the truck.
Just depends on you, its alot harder leaning over and climbing over stuff to do it in the truck but it can be done.side note: Do not drop a stainless headstud in the water jacket hole on the back drivers side-its a b@t$c* to get it back out!
When we do head-gaskets, and studs here, we pull the engine, put it on a stand that we built. Pull it down to a short block, Send the heads off and have the surface checked to see if there are any cracks, or if they are warped. Redo the injector cups, install the right head gaskets, torque the studs, set the valves... replace the water pump if it has not been done, and then put it all back together. Costs around $4000 with parts labor, and tax. The price you were quoted is just fine. I understand someone saying that it is high, because if you were going to do them your self and skip the machine shop, you might save a couple of thousand dollars, but I promise that it is worth it to have the heads checked. I have also seen guys do it in the truck, not get the block cleaned correctly, and then have them leak again... or as they are torquing the studs, slip off and take a valve out...
Just my 2 cents..
Tim
Just my 2 cents..
Tim