Great Information! That makes since to me. Now I have to decide on what I wan't to do with the 625 headstuds.
Not to hijack the thread, there seems to be a lot of people out there who replaces the head studs without re-boring the block. Right or wrong, how many trucks have had failures for not boring the block with the head studs in place?The real question is "Are you willing to take the chance" The 625 head studs require 25 more lbs. of torque then the standard ARP head studs. Do you think the 25 more lbs. is really going to deform the cylinder? Sorry for the dumb question.
I realize that, and really appreciate the information that was provided. I am trying to make a good decision based off of facts. There are a lot of expects on this site that have been very helpful, and I am sure there are a lot of other people that have found this information useful.
I need to find out if the block was honed with the stud in or out. Cross my fingers.
What John posted is the absolute truth , and is 100% the proper way to do it , but alot of poeple have gotten away with putting studs in with out doing a torque plate / hone I am one of them, but I do believe you give up some power as a result of the bore not sealing as well and there is a chance of studs higher torque spec, deforming the cylinder wall, and making the cylinder wall contact the piston skirt. So in short there is no free lunch and make decisions accordingly because it is not with out risk . But anyone ( no offense intended ) who thinks they will only build a motor once, or it will never fail if you through enough money at it , or it will never have to come back out is either (A) never going to push it hard or (B) hasn't followed the track record of built motors failing.
x2 on that! It never ends!
I have wondered about this also How can you be sure that you are distorting the block the same way every time. Or can you repeat the process and duplicate the same distortion every time?Although I can't see torq plate honing being a bad thing to do, I'm not entirely sold on it. First off, Dmax blocks are stronger than cummins blocks simply by design. I'm sure everyone who has built a dmax has seen the hardening in the top of the cylinders-that stuff goes quite deep!!
Secondly, whose to say the amount the block distorts is the same everytime it is torqued down? Different torq wrenches can have different results in actual torq applied to studs. Different temperatures also can affect it upon assembly.
I dunno, just my take on it. Maybe better safe than sorry? Or not a problem? I know of a few high hp engines that weren't done-no issues to date. Maybe those guys will post up why they didn't do it.
I have wondered about this also How can you be sure that you are distorting the block the same way every time. Or can you repeat the process and duplicate the same distortion every time?
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Yes....