Cam drive gear on crank pin sheared

[reese600]

I need some help, I need to remove the cam drive gear off the crankshaft. I don't want to remove the crankshaft, is there anyway to get this off without removing it or ruining the main bearings? I bought this LBZ to replace mine that ate 2 valves and ruined the engine. This engine has less than 30k on it. It came out of a 2007 classic that was totaled in 2009, it was a front end hit, that is why all 3 crank keys are sheared off. 2 shops tried to get the engine running, but they didn't dig in far enough to find the problem. They just replaced the timing cover and replaced the pin on the balancer. I wonder why it wouldn't start...(heavy sarcasm)

 

[JoshH]

That gear is pressed onto the crank. I can't imagine removing it without putting the crank in a press.

 

[reese600]

kinda what I'm afraid of.

 

[Bdsankey]

The crank is going to have to come out. There is no good way to do it without pulling the crank. That said, you can reuse the main bearings as long as they look good and you put the caps where they belong.

 

[rfletes79]

The pic shows the reluctor wheel hub and oil pump gear misaligned with the crank. That pin broke for sure. Once you remove that hub then you can see the cam gear and pin. It might be fine, and your issue is just the hub in front of it. You should be able to pull that off with a puller. Just remove the crankshaft pin, pull the hub off and replace both pins once you have the hub off.

 

[Bdsankey]

The pic shows the reluctor wheel hub and oil pump gear misaligned with the crank. That pin broke for sure. Once you remove that hub then you can see the cam gear and pin. It might be fine, and your issue is just the hub in front of it. You should be able to pull that off with a puller. Just remove the crankshaft pin, pull the hub off and replace both pins once you have the hub off.

I don't think you can get behind the cam drive gear without pulling the crank due to the block/main getting in the way.

 

[Chevy1925]

Op, you better have the heads gone over. these are interference engines so if the cam goes out of time enough, pistons will meet valves and ruin your day.

pull the crank. its going to be way easier to fix the broke pins and get the cam drive gear back on without messing up the thrust bearings. will give you a good idea on bearing health too. just cause its low mileage does not mean things are not hurt. 30k miles and 12 years old means it sat alot of its life and could have been dry started a few times

 

[juddski88]

It can be done in the truck with the right puller and some dry ice, but I do agree with the other guys here, your safest bet at this point is to tear it down and just rebuild it.

 

[rfletes79]

I don't think you can get behind the cam drive gear without pulling the crank due to the block/main getting in the way.

Crap, I didn't see the other photo which has the hub off, my bad. Pull the crank.

 

[reese600]

Wtf, rod caps????????????

Ok, so the crank is out. Valves did hit the pistons, all 8 exhaust pushrods are bent into pretzels. Valves and pistons look good. But what the hell is with the rods? All 8, the caps look like this, no other broken pieces. All I did was remove to rod bolts and separate them from the crank.
The heads are going to a machine shop, and being disassembled, cleaned and inspected. The crank is gonna get keyed. All of the bearings and crank look amazing, like it was just assembled.

 

[jlawles2]

Rod caps are fractured not cut to ensure proper fit and minimize the bolts job.

Lots of custom rods are done the same way now.

https://mitchell1.com/shopconnection/fracture-split-connecting-rods-no-thats-not-a-broken-part/

 

[Burn Down]

Fractured cap technology, as mentioned above. Be very careful with rod and caps. Obviously don’t mix them up and never set or drop them on the fractured face, any dents on dings in the fractured face will compromise the joint.

 

[reese600]

OK guys, thanks for the replies, I thought I was losing my mind the other night.:mikelsheep: