C10 lbz

[PIG]

Well I finally had some time to work on the truck a bit and thanks to a member on here for posting a link to a twin kit I pulled the trigger on it. I debated on it for a bit because I still have other parts I need to purchase but I couldn't pass it up. I mocked it up tonight the make sure the firewall would clear before I start taking everything apart. . I now have to change the mounting location for the coolant tank and modify the down pipe.

 

[SmokeShow]

:happy2:

 

[PIG]

Little update and who doesn't like pics. Pulled everything apart and finish firewall. Cleaned and painted up the engine.

Hoping to get engine set in within the next week or so. Then get the front clip on to free up some garage space.

 

[clrussell]

This would be a sweet build.


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[SmokeShow]

My pants are a bit tighter now.

 

[PIG]

Got the engine and Trans back in place. Bolted up the atmo to double check clearance on the firewall.
Going to wait to put the front clip and engine harness on till I get injectors, hopefully after the holidays.

 

[PIG]

getting closer

 

[mackthehack]

Nice!

 

[Yellow Jacket]

Sweet! Love it, damn good job too!

 

[SmokeShow]

Looks right at home!!! what are the radiator and intercooler out of?!

 

[PIG]

Rad and intercooler or from 2005 Duramax. It's been quite the project sounded easier on paper haha

 

[PIG]

 

[PIG]

Had to modify the hood a bit. I'm not sure what I want to do with it in the future. Wanted to keep it stock appearing.

 

[mackthehack]

Any updates?

 

[PIG]

Any updates?

Waiting on driveshaft and plates hopefully can turn a tires by next week! Had some issues with rear end and finally got everything resolved last night.

 

[PIG]

Ok guys have a question for you. I installed wilwood disc brakes on the rear of the truck now I have hardly and brake to the rear brakes. Not even enough to stop the tires from a idle on jack stands.
Front are stock disc and the truck now has a hydraboost from a 2008 1 ton van.
Brakes are bled and have great pedal.
I'm thinking that it needs a prop valve.
Question is would it go on the rear line and bypass the original metering valve and then dial it back with the new prop valve or does it go on the front and dial the front back so I get more to the rear?
Any insight would be greatly appreciated.

 

[IOWA LLY]

Did you do an automated bleed of the ABS module?

It requires a tech 2. Or other high end scan tool.

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[PIG]

No abs this is on my 1983 c10 swap. Factory lines plumbed into a hydraboost and master cylinder from a late model van

 

[TheBac]

Prop valve is part of the ABS module on our trucks, so Id think you have to add one to your system.

 

[baggedLB7]

Not sure on your year of truck but I know the older ones on the factory prop valve if there was a big enough drop in pressure on the front or the back it would pop into a safety setting and not let any pressure go to that side. We had to reset the one on a freinds 68 GMC truck when he blew the rear line and it was a pain.
Also I have read because those systems are not designed for rear discs you usually have to plumb in a manual prop valve going to the rear. We had to do this on the same freinds 67 Camaro. But were you are running a newer hydro bost set up that might be different.