Anyone ever thread the pin into the impeller then used thread locker? Instead of dowel pinning in the end like a key, on several of our hydraulic jacks, when they put the large diameter piston onto a stock chrome rod, they thread a setscrew crossways to lock the piston and rod together. Seems to keep them from spinning off when the jack gets twisted under load.
Busted Danville pinned pump
- Thread starter quinton
- Start date
You're saying the dowel was welded? I've installed a danville pump and it was just pressed in like a normal dowel would be.
Since the issue doesn't seem to be the pin shearing, but rather coming out. I would think if you used a bit shorter pin and then plug welded both ends of the hole shut, that would solve the issue. I don't think it would be all that difficult either.
This cracks me up. It is just like cranks breaking after the alternate fire cam swap. No matter what you are doing you are going to have a percentage of failures on any product out there. I think you guys are thinking way too hard about this. Let's be real. How many have we really seen fail?
I do think with the RPMs out these trucks are starting to push they will have to do like the Cummins guys do and remove little bit of fin off the impeller.
I do think with the RPMs out these trucks are starting to push they will have to do like the Cummins guys do and remove little bit of fin off the impeller.
Roll pins are hollow though so I'm not sure it would have enough CSA to keep from shearing. People shear welded pumps so there is def some substantial force.
Although I believe welded pump failures are due to not understanding that strength of the weld is derived from the throat and welding it as a square butt configuration is not providing sufficient throat, which could be solved by beveling the shaft and/or the impeller bore.
Its too bad we dont have someone here who's learned in fluid dynamics.
Id like to hear more about the fin alterations like you describe, though. Do you think that designing a different impeller that could handle more RPM, similar to a turbo compressor, would be the way to go?
Grinding the fins down some will make them more efficent at higher rpms, take less torque to spin them, etc. The trade off is thay wont move as much at the lower rpms so engine temps may be higher during low rpm driving or towing
Almost looks like the impeller is now ready for high rpm use with it worn down like it is. Just need to put the pin back in
The question i have is: how do you drill the hole in the impeller with the fins in the way?
Almost looks like the impeller is now ready for high rpm use with it worn down like it is. Just need to put the pin back in
The question i have is: how do you drill the hole in the impeller with the fins in the way?
The welds break because you have two different grades of metal.
If someone made a different impeller wheel instead of a cast one the weld would be much stronger!
And also like mentioned before grooving the material would increase the strength :thumb:
If someone made a different impeller wheel instead of a cast one the weld would be much stronger!
And also like mentioned before grooving the material would increase the strength :thumb:
If that pin sheared I bet a piece would still be pressed in one of the holes. Looks like it fell out to me.
Got the new pump in and this one is different, this one is a roll pin just pressed in no weld. Other one has solid weld over it.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I was thinking along something like this
https://m.summitracing.com/parts/mor-63440
Or gutting one of the TStats or drilling more bypass hole in them
Yes, that is what I do with my stuff. I remove the check balls from the one stat and it has worked out ok for me.