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SickLL7Crenshaw

SickLL7Crenshaw

Billy The Kid
Mar 10, 2013
1,088
34
48
31
Mexico
Ok guys my trans in my LLY was built in June of 2011 with the alligator stage v with ML converter kit. After 60+ passes at 12.1-12.4 and literally tons of street abuse in the last 3 1/2 years along with 45k I figured it was time to drop the pan and inspect. I've had some 3-4 tie ups in the past but they always cleared up after a fast relearn with a tech II. Switching to the 01 OS helped it a lot. Anyways fluid was not burnt but there was quite a bit on the magnet in the pan but nothing to bad to worry about.. So I changed the internal filter along with the external and added new fluid. But I got to thinking. I have a spare 5 speed sitting in the shop. Thought about selling it but now tempted to build it with all the up to date parts and mods and throw it in the LLY and swap it's built trans with the alligator kit in my stock turbo LB7 :D

Like I mentioned it's had its issues after I added the twins in the 3-4 shift. Not to mention I am running 8 clutches in the C2... as I've seen Mike mention running 8 clutches in the C2 is the cause of a lot of 3-4 tie ups. Im also only running the shim mod in the PR valve also:eek: so I know I'm not getting the pressure to the clutches like the clutches need. I'm also running the trans go converter valve/spring and check ball so I'm getting kickdown.

My thoughts are to build the spare using the suncoast 5-3 kit with raybestos clutches. Adding the pressure spring with no shim and modifying the stock converter flow valve to get rid of the kickdown I'm having along with Mikes trim/shift valve springs in the valve body:thumb:. But now a question for Mike Evan Andrew and anyone who would like to chime in. What converter for my s475/stock setup? I didn't have no issues spooling with the Ml and let me remind you my truck lives at 4000'+ elevation and never sees a track lower then 3700'. SC1056? Or SC1054? Mike what converter would you recommend? Goerend R? I wouldn't mind having a converter a TAD bit loosing then the ML precision I'm currently running. Thanks guys
 
mike diesel

mike diesel

I'm alright.
Sep 6, 2012
4,005
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SLC, Utah
I'd run 1 shim with the ratiotech pressure spring.

As far as converter, 1054 would be a good choice but if you are wanting a bit more stall then you might want to look into a 1058.

I run raybestos non slotted clutches with all the good stuff...shift springs and trim valve springs. It is awesome. Your c2 drum is most likely chewed up too so I'd pull the drum out of the other trans you have and use it.
 
SickLL7Crenshaw

SickLL7Crenshaw

Billy The Kid
Mar 10, 2013
1,088
34
48
31
Mexico
I would consider the C2 drum swap Mike but as of right now my idea is to build the spare with new goodies for my LLY that I beat on and swapping it's built trans with the alligator kit in my LB7. I do like the idea of the 1054 though. I still tow with this truck every once in awhile also.
 
mike diesel

mike diesel

I'm alright.
Sep 6, 2012
4,005
0
36
SLC, Utah
SickLL7Crenshaw said:
I would consider the C2 drum swap Mike but as of right now my idea is to build the spare with new goodies for my LLY that I beat on and swapping it's built trans with the alligator kit in my LB7. I do like the idea of the 1054 though. I still tow with this truck every once in awhile also.
Click to expand...

If your using the other trans for the build then you are good to go.

What are your power goals?

Something you may also want to consider is doing a billet c2 hub.
 
SickLL7Crenshaw

SickLL7Crenshaw

Billy The Kid
Mar 10, 2013
1,088
34
48
31
Mexico
mike diesel said:
If your using the other trans for the build then you are good to go.

What are your power goals?

Something you may also want to consider is doing a billet c2 hub.
Click to expand...

Eventually build the motor and add dual fuelers is probably as far as I'll go. Not looking to break any kind of records and will probably stay under 850. Just something that will run high 11s with ease and drive home with a smile on my face.
 
Evan@InglewoodTrans

Evan@InglewoodTrans

yerp
Vendor/Sponsor
Aug 5, 2010
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Your on the right track with your new build other then I would add one shim to the ratio tek pressure spring. The 1054 would work well with your turbo setup.
 
quinton

quinton

Active member
Nov 28, 2011
1,883
0
36
Granbury Tx.
I'm in the same boat right now. About to pull my trans out and go through it and update everything. I've got about the same miles as you with my alligator stage 5. I only have 1-3.
 
Mike L.

Mike L.

Got Sheep?
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Aug 12, 2006
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1054 is not the right converter for high altitude. Goerend R or Suncoast 1058 is a better choice. Run a shim with my spring as Evan said.
 
mike diesel

mike diesel

I'm alright.
Sep 6, 2012
4,005
0
36
SLC, Utah
quinton said:
Yes. No matter what throttle percentage I give it as soon as it commands 4th it slips into neutral. Checked speed sensors new transfer case changed filters so only thing left is c2's or c3's are toast
Click to expand...

Or the c2 hub and p2 planet are striped/broken.
 
SickLL7Crenshaw

SickLL7Crenshaw

Billy The Kid
Mar 10, 2013
1,088
34
48
31
Mexico
Mike L. said:
1054 is not the right converter for high altitude. Goerend R or Suncoast 1058 is a better choice. Run a shim with my spring as Evan said.
Click to expand...

10-4 Mike. Also even with no spool up issues with the standard ML I'm running now you think switching to a 1058 I would benefit from it all the way around compared to the ML?
 
Evan@InglewoodTrans

Evan@InglewoodTrans

yerp
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Aug 5, 2010
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SickLL7Crenshaw said:
10-4 Mike. Also even with no spool up issues with the standard ML I'm running now you think switching to a 1058 I would benefit from it all the way around compared to the ML?
Click to expand...

If your ML is already enough stall for your turbo setup and is working fine then a 54 would be plenty loose enough and a 58 would be even looser yet.
 
SickLL7Crenshaw

SickLL7Crenshaw

Billy The Kid
Mar 10, 2013
1,088
34
48
31
Mexico
Evan@LimitlessDiesel said:
If your ML is already enough stall for your turbo setup and is working fine then a 54 would be plenty loose enough and a 58 would be even looser yet.
Click to expand...

Ya the 1054 is kinda what leaning to Evan as I can run at Albuquerque Dragway which is mile high and have no issues getting to light the chargers currently with the ML. I just don't want something to loose. But I'm all ears right now as I won't be buying the converter untill the first of May.
 
Mike L.

Mike L.

Got Sheep?
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Aug 12, 2006
15,681
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Fullerton CA
SickLL7Crenshaw said:
10-4 Mike. Also even with no spool up issues with the standard ML I'm running now you think switching to a 1058 I would benefit from it all the way around compared to the ML?
Click to expand...

Higher stall is your friend at higher altitudes especially when towing or spooling up off the line at the strip.
I had the PI ML built for McRat when he had a little trouble spooling Casper at LasVegas. He was running a SC 1057 at the time.
 
meshanic

meshanic

All In Trucks
Dec 9, 2010
436
0
16
West Texas
Blake we put a 1058 in Johnny's LBZ running a Danville 72 & he doesn't like it out here. He loves it at sea level but when our da is over 7k & it's 90+ degrees out you want more stall. I would go 1055. These other guys know much more than I do but I live & race where you do. Our air is craptacular!! I raced in Denver last year & I thought that was tough. Remember when you & I ran the 12.50 class in Albuquerque I had to rescale my MAF just to get the fuel to spool? The tune that worked in Denver wouldn't cut it in Albuquerque. Da was like 9k & 98 degrees out. Just my .02

Suncoast converters are awesome. The 1055 still couples well enough to tow imo.
 
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