Built motor, injectors won't stay sealed?

05Monsterdmax

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May 31, 2011
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How do u prevent the check ball from letting fuel past? I haven't drove it really since I replaced them, did some just regular driving and didn't seep any, but did very little under wot. But like I said I haven't played with it since then
 

Wildman

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Mar 7, 2013
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Well they have cups they're just part of the cylinder head as once piece in contrary to the LB7 which are removeable. Regardless it can leak past the nozzle and into hole the injector sits in once that hole fills it will eventually leak past the cheasy oring and run down the cylinder head. Just my opinion but if the supply line to the injector from the rail was leaking it'd be pretty easy to spot. Just throwing out my experience I was given the wrong torque specs when I re-installed my nozzles which is the only reason this happened otherwise I've never really heard of this. If you pull the injector out and the body is wet with diesel then you know this is the issue. Just my .02 cents good luck:thumb:
 

Wildman

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Thats prob correct its been a while since this happened. I think i went an extra 5 ft lbs to make sure the seated I believe its a 17mm nut on the nozzle. One of the local marine diesel shops my buddy works at was actually the one who brought the idea of the nozzles leaking to my attention I would've never guessed. I was only going to 25 ft lbs originally thats why they leaked. It would only happen after say a hard WOT pull when rail pressure was high. Then I'd smell the fuel and see it running down the head slowly. Hey if you're in there still trying to diagnose the injectors and you have to take them out anyways it wouldn't hurt to try this. I had my injectors in and out at least 10 times before I figured it out.
 

05Monsterdmax

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May 31, 2011
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Will do. It ran across my mind when I had them out this last time, even though they was tq and tested at the factory, but I didn't check them. Will next time
 

skintback

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Mar 5, 2007
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lly does not have cups. to the op, it sounds like you are pushing fuel past the check ball, the only fuel in or out of the injector is from the hard line on the side, the return line out of the top, or obviously into the cylinder. it is highly unlikely that it is being blown back out of the cylinder, past the copper washer, and past the oring seal. if it looks like it is coming back up through the hole, it is most likely that check ball because rail pressure is too high

You are right. I have had this problem since i added dual cp3's and it has done it on 3 sets of injectors leak out the check ball makes a mess only when you beat on it.

How do you stop it i only run 185mpa with exergy 100 overs
 

skintback

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How high are you running your rail pressure? There has been a few LLY injectors that leak fuel out of the body under high rail pressure. Make sure your rail pressure sensor is rescaled if you are running over 180 for rail pressure. Other wise once it hits 180 it will just keep climbing and make them leak.

Where do i check that at and what should it look like?
 

dracing70

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Jun 12, 2007
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Well over this past winter I built my block. Added dual pumps, had my tips cut, charger etc etc. all the valve covers were powder coated. All mating surfaces were sanded down to ensure the injectors were sitting down in the bore far enough. Swapped the oem injector hold down bolts out to a harder grade and are getting torqued at 35ftlb vs the stock 22lb or whatever it was. When u really beat down on it the injectors still seep fuel out. This is only on my 600hp tune, not any of my big ones which would really pour prolly. Idk wat else could be the issue unless the oem hold Down retainers are flexing and letting the injector raise under high pressure. Are most of u guys with built motors/dual fuelers etc running billet tie downs or the existing oem ones? I've done everything I can think of and still to no avail..

I had huge issues with this last season. The bolt was never the issue. Everytime I popped one the crows foot was actually flexing and bending backwards.
 

dracing70

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They are just my factory hold downs that came on the lly. Idk if people are running them or replacing them with stronger, but I know mine keep leaking under wot. I just looked up socals retainer kit, $650 bucks :eek: didn't see that one coming. Lol they come with bolts also but are only torqued to 32lbs it says.

Billet hold downs are the only option
 

dracing70

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How high are you running your rail pressure? There has been a few LLY injectors that leak fuel out of the body under high rail pressure. Make sure your rail pressure sensor is rescaled if you are running over 180 for rail pressure. Other wise once it hits 180 it will just keep climbing and make them leak.

I have also had this happen and it leaks out the check ball
 

dracing70

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Good find problems like that are a pain in the ass. One of the injectors I lifted last year did not for some reason make the "air compressor" sound. It was just flexing the keeper then returning back when not under load. I never new till I pulled the engine apart.


QUOTE=Wildman;706646]You are not lifting and/or not seating the injector. It is 22 ft lbs on the hold down bolts btw iirc. I had this same issue when I took my injectors out to clean the nozzles. I chased this for a month without answers from anyone before I figured out my issue. I had fuel seaping out the injector cups after a hard pull and it would run down the cylinder head and burn till i smelt it. Long story short after numerous orings and new copper washers I realized neither of those keep the fuel in the injector. If a copper washer leaks you'll know it's very audible sounds like an air compressor nozzle when it hits due to the compression leak. The orings are just to keep dirt out of the hole. SO what happened was my nozzles were not seating to the injector body itself and it would leak around the threads. You have to take the nozzles off clean them well and torque them on the injector to 65 ft lbs iirc then i would crack them loose a tad and re torque them to 65 ft lbs and go an extra 1/8th turn to seat the taper seat on the nozzle and good as new problem solved. No more leaks. This drove me insane for 5 weeks the truck would shake under load and have a loss of power. Hope this helps in your case[/QUOTE]
 

THEFERMANATOR

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Where do i check that at and what should it look like?

Table B0203. At 4.53 volts you will see the stock table goes to 180 and stays flat from there on up. Set it so that 4.53 is 181, 4.69 is 188, 4.84 is 195, and 5.00 is 202. This will allow the ECM to be able to read past 180 MPA when you command it. Otherwise if you lift the limiters and such, it will go full bore once it hits 180 as it has no way to know if it goes past 180 since the rail pressure sensor scaling stops at 180.
 

S Phinney

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Table B0203. At 4.53 volts you will see the stock table goes to 180 and stays flat from there on up. Set it so that 4.53 is 181, 4.69 is 188, 4.84 is 195, and 5.00 is 202. This will allow the ECM to be able to read past 180 MPA when you command it. Otherwise if you lift the limiters and such, it will go full bore once it hits 180 as it has no way to know if it goes past 180 since the rail pressure sensor scaling stops at 180.

That table should not be modified unless you change the sensor to a higher bar sensor. How does this make it run more pressure than it is written for? It should do that on LB7's as well if what you say is completely accurate.
 

S Phinney

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The Ferm is correct, I have a thread I started about this last fall.

On this particular truck when he logs it from my knowledge it doesn't go above the commanded 185 pressures. I have not seen a log yet. That is just what I have been told. It should jump to 200 if that was correct since that is the limit for pressure. What am I missing?
 

skintback

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thanks i will give it a shot from what i can remeber my v2 stops reading at 180mpa when out driving it i think have to check
 
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S Phinney

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That would be right as the pressure sensor can't read past that Sonny. You would have to change to a different sensor and rescale the B0203 table for it.

Sent from my XT1080 using Tapatalk
 

THEFERMANATOR

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On this particular truck when he logs it from my knowledge it doesn't go above the commanded 185 pressures. I have not seen a log yet. That is just what I have been told. It should jump to 200 if that was correct since that is the limit for pressure. What am I missing?

The logs will top out at whatever the rail pressure sensor is scaled to. The factory sensor stops at 180 in the scaling, but can read higher(it just isn't that accurate in doing so as it's accuracy stops around the 180 mark. And even rescaled don't go beyond 200 as the stock rail sensor doesn't really read that high, 190 is a good ceiling to stop at.). I know there were several threads last year of people popping the check balls out of LLY injectors, and the table and changes I referenced were found to be the fix for the problem. When a gauge was installed inline it was found that once the stock table hit 180 the logs topped out there, but the gauge would peg right afterwards. If the sensor is scaled to top at 180, no functions in the ECM can read past 180. So if you command more than 180, it will command the sky but stop reading at 180. And it isn't just me that has run into this one.
 
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THEFERMANATOR

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thanks i will give it a shot from what i can remeber my v2 stops reading at 180mpa when out driving it i think have to check

Make the changes I posted above and it will read above the 180 mark. I used to run up to 180 in my tunes, and found I had to rescale the rail pressure sensor. There is also a rail pressure error in the diag tables that can hold you back. C1807 and C1809 can limit you. I know my LB7 would stop at 167 no matter what I commanded until I raised these 2 tables up.