Built Engine Plans

andy-stevenson

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Jul 7, 2013
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I'm currently saving up to build my motor and just have a few questions and trying to get an idea of how much I should be planning on budgeting..truck is a dd and will see the track probably once a month hoping to push 800rwhp.

My plans are fingers cast oval pistons, carrillo forged rods, keyed cam and crank, crank assembly balanced, head and main studs, heads just decked and cleaned, all new bearings, socal valve springs, all new gaskets and seals, tig welded water pump, billet flex plate, super damper, 60% exergy, 72mm 4094, profab headers and uppipes and dual fuelers if the funds are available right away.

How much should I be budgeting for the machine work; keying crank and cam, honing cylinder, etc?
Should I be getting the crank balanced internally or is externally good?
Should I be looking to get a different crank (LML or anything)?
Should I be getting billet main caps?
Should the oil pump and cooler be replaced?
?Is there anything I should be adding/removing from my list?
 

blk smoke lb7

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Nov 8, 2010
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That's a pretty good list for 800 I wouldn't worry about billet main caps,use the ATI or Socal dampner and have the rotating mass balanced for sure.injectors and rods alone are going to cost you 5gs,better have about 15 grand to light on fire and replace the oil pump for sure.
 

othrgrl

Diesel Addiction Owner
Mar 10, 2008
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Machine work on block, keying, and balancing will depend on who you know and where you go - and can vary drastically depending on your area of the country. Around here it would be $1200-$2000.

External balance in fine for a street/strip truck at 800 rhwp.
Any Duramax crank in good condition will be fine for you.
No need for billet main caps at 800 rwhp.
Replace the oil pump, re-use the cooler but don't try to take it apart or you will have to replace it.

For 800 rwhp I would be going with at least 100% over injectors to keep the pw and timing more conservative. You will have to push a 72mm danville to it's absolute limits to do 800 rwhp - I would probably select a different turbo. A DB S475/87/1.0 will spool nicely, not be at it's power limit at 800, and still be able to tow when necessary.
 

andy-stevenson

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Jul 7, 2013
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100 overs will still have good street manners and tune nicely? Should I be concerned at all about buying new injectors and having them done by exergy or as long as exergy has tested and cleaned and balanced a set of 8 they should be just as good?

And just the arp 2000 are good right, no reason to drop the extra coin on the custom aged 625s?
 

adeso

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May 30, 2011
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I would go with a twin setup, only real way to play up at that power level and still have street manners. 100 over is as large as I would go. the setup you described up there would be good for 750HP and still drive nice. What engine do you have?
 

Cknight199

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Aug 23, 2012
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This is the build I'll have in my future :) I say use the 72mm vvt turbo, that's what I will be doing, then later on you can always throw a big brother over it, like an s500 series turbo or s483. Or a Garrett turbo.

Overall I would stay with the turbo you have for now, it's cool to have twins but its cooler to have 800 hp on a single turbo, plus you can win some dyno events if they classify it in categories. Mark did 850 with his...
 

adeso

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May 30, 2011
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I still say you cannot beat compounds for a DD/high HP truck that still can tow.
If it was me, and you could be happy with 750HP I would just delip your stock pistons, run a 475/stock or something similar for air and run 60 over sticks. Skip the billet mains.
If you want more, I would go with fingers pistons, billet caps and 100 overs 2 stock LBZ CP3s and enough air for 900 HP (480/366 or something similar)

Know that either way you go, every time you turn it up past 500HP you are eating away at the engine and it won't last forever like that. Make sure you run all the gages (EGT and oil temp) and watch them when you are towing
 

adeso

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May 30, 2011
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Also, for your power level if you are short on cash just change out the drivers side manifold for an LMM, under $90. I still run stock up pipes on mine. Not saying the new manifolds and up pipes wont help, but at your power level it is a nice to have not a need to have
 

andy-stevenson

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If I were to run a 72mm 4094 how much of a reduction in drive pressure would I see from stock mans and uppipes vs profab? What does increased drive pressure actually stress, is it the turbo, rods, pistons?

What about upgraded cam; necessary, something I can just leave stock? What would changing the cam help out with most, spoolup, top end pull?
 

Cknight199

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Aug 23, 2012
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If I were to run a 72mm 4094 how much of a reduction in drive pressure would I see from stock mans and uppipes vs profab? What does increased drive pressure actually stress, is it the turbo, rods, pistons?

What about upgraded cam; necessary, something I can just leave stock? What would changing the cam help out with most, spoolup, top end pull?

It's because it's a vvt turbo that drive pressure is so high.
 

adeso

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May 30, 2011
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with a VVT the restriction is at the turbo, not the up pipes. I would think they would help a little bit, but not as much as going away from the VVT or putting a gate on it. Increased backpressure ups the EGTs and stress on the engine.
Cams can help, seems like the big benefit of those are the guys running big singles trying to get them to spool. with compounds it is easy to overcome a less open cam and head at the cost of a little higher boost number (and a little higher drive pressure and EGTs)
 

andy-stevenson

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Now a fear of mine running a s475 over stocker is the stocker grenading and taking out a brand new engine what is the likely hood of this? or can I just rebuild the stocker to pretty much new condition and not have to worry?
 

1slowmax

The break is over
May 9, 2012
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Not likely to happen.

If you just want 800 do the single s475 w/ billet wheel. They sound nice. I have done it and loved it. I now run twins but still love my single s475 set up and miss it some days. I also ran a single s480 but it was too big. If you run the .90 AR it will spool fast and also depends on your converter. If you have a loose converter with higher stall a s475 w/ billet wheel will spool amazing and you will love it. It will cost much less then twins too.

http://youtu.be/oOH-mekPYm8

http://youtu.be/uJ5saFgyrX0
 

dmax711

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Mar 4, 2011
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Not likely to happen.

If you just want 800 do the single s475 w/ billet wheel. They sound nice. I have done it and loved it. I now run twins but still love my single s475 set up and miss it some days. I also ran a single s480 but it was too big. If you run the .90 AR it will spool fast and also depends on your converter. If you have a loose converter with higher stall a s475 w/ billet wheel will spool amazing and you will love it. It will cost much less then twins too.

http://youtu.be/oOH-mekPYm8

http://youtu.be/uJ5saFgyrX0


I agree. A single s475 will give you what you need if you don't tow. Its a simple setup easy to work on and install and it flat out tares ass. And if down the road you want more power either twin off of it or triples. But a good s475 say a Danville batmo will support 900+ with proper fueling.
 

andy-stevenson

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I rarely tow and if I do it's just a little 4x8 utility trailer full of crap going to the dump. I was leaning towards a s475 but haven't really found any kits. Wehrli has a kit but its a little more than I was thinking and doesn't even come with through turbo.

Can anyone suggest an install kit for a s475?
 

Cknight199

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Aug 23, 2012
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I rarely tow and if I do it's just a little 4x8 utility trailer full of crap going to the dump. I was leaning towards a s475 but haven't really found any kits. Wehrli has a kit but its a little more than I was thinking and doesn't even come with through turbo.

Can anyone suggest an install kit for a s475?

HSP diesel. Nicest kits out there IMO.