Alright guys, i am in the process of doing some research on building the engine in my dually for the stock turbo class. I would really like to hear some of your opinions on what you guys would do to make the most power out of a stock charger. I was thinking delipped pistons, stock rods, and a cam of some sorts for the bottom end. But I'm not opposed to upgraded parts in the bottom end. Who all sells rebuild kits? How important is it to have everything balanced and does the machine shop have to have the bottom end together to balance it? Any help is appreciated.
LB7: Building a stock turbo puller, need help/opinions
- Thread starter dirty_max
- Start date
A legit stock turbo, or stock appearing? I'd probably buy rods.
If you're doing the main assembly, machine shop will need everything in the rotating assembly to balance it. There are a few here that have ran different rods and not rebalanced,.with no failures, but the risk is up to you.
If you're doing the main assembly, machine shop will need everything in the rotating assembly to balance it. There are a few here that have ran different rods and not rebalanced,.with no failures, but the risk is up to you.
If it was me, and I’m cheap, delipped lb7 pistons, lbz rods, some sort of stage 1 AF cam. With Jesse pushing his ZF LLY over 700 horses on stock bottom end, I don’t think there’d be any issues.
If you're going to have the rotating assembly apart, it'd be pretty dumb to not throw a set of rods in it. Unless you on tight budget.... Wagler's as forged rods come to mind....
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I think you should have everything balanced as well. I balance every engine i build to try keep unwanted vibration and harmonics to a minimum
balancing is not an option, it's a requirement, if you're changing any of the parts or the weight of any of the parts in example delipping the Pistons
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If you go back through some of the old build threads it’s pretty crazy what some guys got away with! I remember reading Trent’s build thread where he used a router to de-lip his pistons in the truck :roflmao:
it will be a true stock charger. this is kind of a budget build, but I have money to throw at it if I want to. I was considering wagler or lbz rods. what are you guys using to pin the crank and cam? I assume the crank gear and damper get pinned? something like a socal 3388 cam sound about right?
this is why I am asking silly questions. ive rebuilt a lot of diesel engines and never had to have anything balanced. but it is always factory parts going back into it.
None of the factory stuff is balanced and is typically pretty far off. That is why I balance everything.
I figured a stock bottom end would hold but was somewhat curious if there is anything I could do in the bottom end that would potentially increase power.i know a stock charger is only going to do so much but if there is anything that I can do in the bottom end to help I would like to do it since im rebuilding anyhow. stock turbo and workstock in my area are very competitive and have a lot of strong running trucks in both classes. anything I can do to the engine during rebuild that can give me any advantage I would like to do. from some of the research that I have done really the only thing that can help is pistons and a cam. but im not really sure how much that will even help with a stock charger. also, do you guys see any issue with running egr heads? the engine that I have to rebuild is an egr engine. I was told that egr heads flow a little more than stock but you cant really do anything with them as far as opening up. would a set of socal heads help at all with a stock charger?
Im intrigued. I would like to know what kind of setup guys are getting 650 out of a stock turbo, if you don't mind sharing
650hp stocker = optimistic dyno
Unfortunately, nowdays you're going to have to run a stock-appearing charger in workstock, otherwise you just wont be competitive. Hide weight in the front of the truck, too. Run bumpstops on the rear, and design a good hitch.
Unfortunately, nowdays you're going to have to run a stock-appearing charger in workstock, otherwise you just wont be competitive. Hide weight in the front of the truck, too. Run bumpstops on the rear, and design a good hitch.
My dads LMM did 575 to the tires on a super flo. Stock manifold, rdl up pipes. Stock cp3, 30% injectors. If you run a 10mm cp3 and use an LLY or LB7 turbo ported it’ll make power. Add in some good flowing heads. There have been 600hp LLY’s bone stock turbo stock heads.
If you’re already rebuilding the engine then yes put rods in it. But if you’re just wanting to test it apart and build it to hold better stock parts will hold with good tuning. I’ve had multiple stock bottom end work stock trucks.
There are some things you can do to a stock turbo to make it flow more but I don’t think you’ll ever make 650 on a true stock turbo. Stock appearing is a whole different ball game though.
There are some things you can do to a stock turbo to make it flow more but I don’t think you’ll ever make 650 on a true stock turbo. Stock appearing is a whole different ball game though.
Problem is 'stock turbo' turns into 'stock appearing' for most guys, then 2.5/2.6sb later, so on & so on.... To the point you will bend a stock rod for sure if you're trying to be competitive. If you have the engine apart, better do rods. If it's not apart, yes it will do you well for a long time.
As far as which specific parts will make more power for your turbo limits, it'd be hard to find anyone that tested specific things. Compression ratio and camshaft would be two things I'd test if I was interested in that class. Pretty costly to do so, especially for that level.
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As far as which specific parts will make more power for your turbo limits, it'd be hard to find anyone that tested specific things. Compression ratio and camshaft would be two things I'd test if I was interested in that class. Pretty costly to do so, especially for that level.
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