LMM: Building a motor for dummies.

[malibu795]

interesting...

you can mod these to all get out..... stupid can break bulletporrf stuff...

not sayign that mat is stupid... we do know the LMM pistons are "weak" for lack of better term. especial above 500hp.


i know a coupel guys that run performance shops... they will warentee thier work... but if the operator was doign soemthing stupid it will cost the operator.


i dont think this is a bad reflection on either tuner or owner/operator :hug:

 

[ripmf666]

This is, by far, gonna be the best guide for removing the engine IMO. Brandon does incredible, detailed DIY threads. I wish he had his DIY build up thread done and posted. He is incredibly detailed and takes excellent pictures of pretty much everything!

This is on DP so make a new screen name if you have to. :angel: It'll be worth it. :rofl:

BMDMAX's Guide To Engine Removal Hotness

if you insist on NOT going to dieselplace.com, he has his own site outlining it as well I think.

http://www.bmdmax.com/DDRemoval.htm and he said it is NOT Mozilla/Firefox friendly. IE only.


Hope that helps on the engine removal. Now if we could just get some answers to my questions. Perhaps someone is busy typing?!?! :angel:

Mitch you mean something like these.
Take out starting on post #41 http://www.duramaxdiesels.com/forum/showthread.php?t=5608&page=3
Rebuild and install http://www.duramaxdiesels.com/forum/showthread.php?t=6679http://www.duramaxdiesels.com/forum/showthread.php?t=5608&page=3

 

[JOHNBOY]

IMO main studs are a waste of $. Especially under 800 hp. When I have seen proof of cap walk then I will say you need studs AND steel main caps or a girdle. Pretty hard for a cross bolted cap to walk if its not flexing. And if it is flexing bolts aren't going to fix it

They move. I set up bore gage during the torqueing process. I was suprised how much the move when torqueing. I witnessed the samething with the bore and headstuds.

I will not put one of these engines together with out a Mainstud and Side bolt kit.

Steal bearing caps and bottomend girdles are out there and all can help.

 

[jckleewein]

Sounds like I will be building my in the near future. Hope I can make it to late spring or summer. Keep the good info coming.

 

[Turbo Buick 6]

They move. I set up bore gage during the torqueing process. I was suprised how much the move when torqueing. I witnessed the samething with the bore and headstuds.

I will not put one of these engines together with out a Mainstud and Side bolt kit.

Steal bearing caps and bottomend girdles are out there and all can help.

Thats not capwalk....Any main changes shape when you tq it

 

[JOHNBOY]

Thats not capwalk....Any main changes shape when you tq it

No it is not persay cap walk. But I have never seen a SBC, SBF, or Turbo Buick block move as much I witnessed with this block. Maybe you should try tearing one of these apart. I think you might better understand why I say the things I do if you witnessed them for yourself.

 

[Turbo Buick 6]

No it is not persay cap walk. But I have never seen a SBC, SBF, or Turbo Buick block move as much I witnessed with this block. Maybe you should try tearing one of these apart. I think you might better understand why I say the things I do if you witnessed them for yourself.

One thing has nothing to do with the other, untill the caps start to lift or walk back and forth studs will do nothing. I have been inside a duramax and i have had blocks that move like crazy. 1 of which was a TA buick block that I had to get rid of because of main problems. Brand new. All was fine till the cross bolts went in. Long storie short after paying 4G for a new block I shouldn't have to piss around machining something they should have done.

My opinion is I haven't seen a ton of main bearings spin or drive over your crank club members so I'm not convinced studs are needed.

 

[JOHNBOY]

One thing has nothing to do with the other, untill the caps start to lift or walk back and forth studs will do nothing. I have been inside a duramax and i have had blocks that move like crazy. 1 of which was a TA buick block that I had to get rid of because of main problems. Brand new. All was fine till the cross bolts went in. Long storie short after paying 4G for a new block I shouldn't have to piss around machining something they should have done.

My opinion is I haven't seen a ton of main bearings spin or drive over your crank club members so I'm not convinced studs are needed.

Sucks about the TA block. I have heard that about them. I always ran the Buick block. But my GN was slow. 12.0s I have seen some funny bearing wear that I beleive was caused by movement. I have not seen a full on spin though.

Main Studs are $225 last I looked. Rods, Pistons, and balance job will cost you right around $6000. Why would you not spend the extra $500(studs plus machine work) to insure you have the best bottomend possible? Cheap insurance IMHO. I always put the best bottomend together I can. I always push thing furthers then I planned at first. I have learn to build in safety margin. I can always add better topend parts later. I do the same no matter what it is Dmax, SBC or the LSX I am planning. Nothing but the best bottomend parts.

 

[Turbo Buick 6]

Sucks about the TA block. I have heard that about them. I always ran the Buick block. But my GN was slow. 12.0s I have seen some funny bearing wear that I beleive was caused by movement. I have not seen a full on spin though.

Main Studs are $225 last I looked. Rods, Pistons, and balance job will cost you right around $6000. Why would you not spend the extra $500(studs plus machine work) to insure you have the best bottomend possible? Cheap insurance IMHO. I always put the best bottomend together I can. I always push thing furthers then I planned at first. I have learn to build in safety margin. I can always add better topend parts later. I do the same no matter what it is Dmax, SBC or the LSX I am planning. Nothing but the best bottomend parts.

Ya, I would never play with TA stuff again. I ended up grabbing a stage 1 BMS block and convered it to a stage II by drilling out the extra head bolt holes and changing the caps....and had to put 6 sleeves in it cause it had casting porosity. But it worked well and lived. I can tell you with Buick 109 blocks just studs will do nothing, you have to run steel caps or a girdle.

I understand what your sayin :hug: And I'm also playing devils advocate a little, but I just don't see just studs helping. I would deff run them with steel caps. I haven't tore down high power d-maxs but from what I have seen on the net and people have told me I see the caps being more of the problem right now than the bolts (cap flex which studs won't solve)

Now when I do my build I'll prob have main probs:rofl::rofl::rofl:

 

[ripmf666]

Sorry if i'm doing the main studs then its getting new caps and a girdle, other then that stock bolts will stay.

 

[JOHNBOY]

Sorry if i'm doing the main studs then its getting new caps and a girdle, other then that stock bolts will stay.

If I do another one it will get new caps and a girdle. They where not avalible when I built my engine. Heck the Main Studs and Side Bolts I had to wait for. I own the 3rd set ARP made.:rofl:

 

[ripmf666]

lol next one might get them I have a block.

 

[super diesel]

Just for info. The stock main studs Rockwell out at only 27-28 on the C scale .
Typicle Unbrako bolts RC at about 40 (like a top grade 8). The rocker arm bolts are worse at only 23 RC . This may be good insurance. The main bolts aren't very tough at all.

 

[JOHNBOY]

Just for info. The stock main studs Rockwell out at only 27-28 on the C scale .
Typicle Unbrako bolts RC at about 40 (like a top grade 8). The rocker arm bolts are worse at only 23 RC . This may be good insurance. The main bolts aren't very tough at all.

Better rocker arm shaft bolts or even better studs are very nice idea.

This sucked! vvvvvv

 

[Turbo Buick 6]

Just for info. The stock main studs Rockwell out at only 27-28 on the C scale .
Typicle Unbrako bolts RC at about 40 (like a top grade 8). The rocker arm bolts are worse at only 23 RC . This may be good insurance. The main bolts aren't very tough at all.

Doesn't matter if they are softer than warm butter if they are stronger than the cap itself. If the cap itself is flexing there is no fastener in the world that can stop it.

I understand people wanting to upgrade, but something is only as strong as the weakest link. If your going to spend the $ on main studs why not do the center caps? Don't know what they sell for but they are pretty simple to make.

 

[super diesel]

The point is that these soft bolts don't help. The mains with a good bolt will give them a better chance at surviving, no? The mains are softer (but then again so is the block, so were are we going to start?). I haven't seen them being spit out yet from sheer power, but it may happen soon if the safer steps arn't taken. Stronger mains are a sound idea along with better bolts (studs).