LLY: Broken Crank,need opinions on new build sheet

dirtymax36

2nd place is last
Apr 11, 2013
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2 days ago I was pulling up my driveway my lly with 190k miles with mods in my signature, and it went to downshift into first gear (i have a longer driveway) and when it shifted the whole truck shook hard and started knocking/ banging. pulled it inside and checked the balancer with a 36mm wrench to do the "crank test" and sure enough there was a lot of clunking/play going on after belt tension was removed. So onto building this motor;
Using stock bore block
Wagler Rods
Delipped pistons
Main studs
AF 3388 So cal Cam
Clevite H bearings everywhere
DTS oil pump
Recondition heads/valve seats
new pushrods
titanium retainers, hamilton springs
new oil cooler
ATi Damper
MA motor mounts

Used LB7/LLY Crank???
Any opinions will be appreciated!
 

Hot COCOAL

May the farce be with you
Jun 9, 2012
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Looks like an all right build sheet.
I'd suggest leaving the heads alone for now and using the saved cash to spend on a more proven set of rods...and I can only assume you'll incorporate ARP hardware and grade C head gaskets..

Depending on power goals, I might also suggest skipping the cut LB7 pistons and going for either SoCal Mahle cast or fingers ovals, possibly using some performance manifolds too
 
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ripmf666

Active member
Sep 20, 2006
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dirtymax36

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Apr 11, 2013
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Thats what i was thinking LWatson, fortunately i already have head studs. I was contemplating on selling my billet fleece 68 cheetah for a s468 billet charger. Any ideas?
 

Hot COCOAL

May the farce be with you
Jun 9, 2012
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Thats what i was thinking LWatson, fortunately i already have head studs. I was contemplating on selling my billet fleece 68 cheetah for a s468 billet charger. Any ideas?

What are your goals?
The 68 should be more than capable of pushing the limits of the build you have spec'd in your opening post...

Can't remember who it was at Fleece I was talking to, but I was told that the 63 is good for up to 650-700whp and the 68 was good for 750-800whp

De lipped LB7 pistons are "supposed" to "safely" handle 700whp...
You wanna push more than 700hp you'd better think about spending more on internal parts and worry about more air later..
:2cents:
 

PACougar

Active member
Jun 27, 2012
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What are your goals?
The 68 should be more than capable of pushing the limits of the build you have spec'd in your opening post...

Can't remember who it was at Fleece I was talking to, but I was told that the 63 is good for up to 650-700whp and the 68 was good for 750-800whp

De lipped LB7 pistons are "supposed" to "safely" handle 700whp...
You wanna push more than 700hp you'd better think about spending more on internal parts and worry about more air later..
:2cents:

I think Brian's 1000+ RWHP on delipped stock pistons might have something to say about that. I also wouldn't go by Fleece's HP ratings on their turbos, I've yet to see a track time that really backs up their claims when it comes to that.

To the OP, I would probably ditch the Cheetah and go fixed. You need to decide if you want to tow heavy with the truck and what other possible uses you might have to pick the right air supply.
 

Hot COCOAL

May the farce be with you
Jun 9, 2012
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I think Brian's 1000+ RWHP on delipped stock pistons might have something to say about that. I also wouldn't go by Fleece's HP ratings on their turbos, I've yet to see a track time that really backs up their claims when it comes to that.

To the OP, I would probably ditch the Cheetah and go fixed. You need to decide if you want to tow heavy with the truck and what other possible uses you might have to pick the right air supply.

Somehow I knew Bri's build was gonna get mentioned...
Although I figured it woulda been him that mentioned it, lol

I think Brian would be the first to say that his success isn't the typical standard for those pistons and it probably shouldn't be used as a "measuring stick"

I said 700 cuz it's known to be a fairly accepted potential...if I used a higher number I'm sure I'd get flamed for that, but I personally wouldn't try to make even 700whp on them so I won't suggest trying to make more than that to someone else.
:rolleyes:

As far as Fleece goes, lol, I think they get Flywheel results and translate that into WHP :woott:
I'm not a big fan of their stuff, I wouldn't call it crap but I'd rather support the likes of Danvile, DHD and ProFab...
:)
 

LWATSON

future trans limpers
Jul 30, 2008
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I've never ridden in a truck with a modified variable charger so I really cant compare but from what I've heard the fixed chargers perform better producing less back preasure, EGTs also seem to be lower with fixed charger setups. My truck just is hitting 1200* when I go through the traps in the 1/8 th.
 

dirtymax36

2nd place is last
Apr 11, 2013
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The most it tows is 10k and it's twice a week. What do you think an s468 billet would do mpg wise and hp with 60 overs?

Also, what's a billet 68 cheetah worth to anyone with about 8k miles and 0 hooks?
 

dirtymax36

2nd place is last
Apr 11, 2013
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The most I would ever hit would be about 800 or 850 max. Unless I kept the 68 now, and threw a 483 in front of it
 

carpenca

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Dec 17, 2010
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I think Brian's 1000+ RWHP on delipped stock pistons might have something to say about that. I also wouldn't go by Fleece's HP ratings on their turbos, I've yet to see a track time that really backs up their claims when it comes to that.

To the OP, I would probably ditch the Cheetah and go fixed. You need to decide if you want to tow heavy with the truck and what other possible uses you might have to pick the right air supply.

No, there are not that many VNT setups around here that drag race for us to "back up our claims" however after a good conversation, I think you'll find we are not the bullshipping type. We rate everything realistically so that anyone with the right supporting modifications can hit or exceed the rated numbers. As far as the Fleece S400's, such as our 68 and 75. Multiple people have backed up or exceeded what was claimed.

A FPE Billet 68 VNT with at least a 75% over injector and steady rail shouldn't have any issue making 750RWHP. That's what it is reliably rated for. The test truck (LLY with 100% over injectors and dual CP3's) made more than 3 dyno pulls over a 6 hour time span well over 800RWHP. Even with a +- 10% Discrepancy in dyno vs dyno vs track times. That's still right at or more than 750 RWHP.

Turbo Selection is all about goals! Horse Power, Use, Tire & Gear ratio, Etc... Hammer out those things and go from there. Also, pick a shop that does it top to bottom, and stick with them.

Caleb
 

PACougar

Active member
Jun 27, 2012
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No, there are not that many VNT setups around here that drag race for us to "back up our claims" however after a good conversation, I think you'll find we are not the bullshipping type. We rate everything realistically so that anyone with the right supporting modifications can hit or exceed the rated numbers. As far as the Fleece S400's, such as our 68 and 75. Multiple people have backed up or exceeded what was claimed.

A FPE Billet 68 VNT with at least a 75% over injector and steady rail shouldn't have any issue making 750RWHP. That's what it is reliably rated for. The test truck (LLY with 100% over injectors and dual CP3's) made more than 3 dyno pulls over a 6 hour time span well over 800RWHP. Even with a +- 10% Discrepancy in dyno vs dyno vs track times. That's still right at or more than 750 RWHP.

Turbo Selection is all about goals! Horse Power, Use, Tire & Gear ratio, Etc... Hammer out those things and go from there. Also, pick a shop that does it top to bottom, and stick with them.

Caleb

Caleb, ultimately dyno numbers are a marketing tool and I get that. I also realize they're great for comparison purposes as well. I don't doubt for one second that you guys rate your turbos on the HP you see on the dyno. So please don't take any offense, I don't think you're lying. I simply don't think the trap speeds I've seen match the HP they're rated at. Don't get to upset with me, I still want to get one of your data logging setups one of these days.:hug: