Break In oil change
- Thread starter TROJAN366
- Start date
Brad Penn FTW. I run it in my bike and anything with a flat tappet cam. I'd probably run it in my truck if the parts place carried 15/40 but they only have 20/50. I suppose it would be fine.
Wait, you guys break engines in??? Hell just get it up to temp, check for leaks, put some power to it :thumb:
I definitely didn't baby the truck during break in but it didn't spend much time on the hot tune. I varied RPMs almost constantly and definitely let it see boost. That being said I was on tune 3 which makes 40-50psi and probably makes 800ish HP. Now that I have fresh oil in it I will be running it a bit harder on the bigger tunes. I am just trying to play things safe since I don;t want to build a 3rd motor in 4 years.
i would agree with him. i swapped to full syn after 2500 miles and between my babying the motor and that switch, it took another 17k before i finally quit burning oil. i couldnt say for sure if any of that was the cause as ive heard of guys going 10k before rings were fully set. i believe it depends on the machining done to the block, rings used, ect
have you cut the filter open each time and inspected it? i purposely bought a filter cutting tool to check mine every 3-5k when i change the oil. it will help you catch if you have a bearing or something going bad before it really does damage.
I got maybe 10 miles on her before I hooked to the trailer to head home.
Changing oil when I get home... Cause I know I didn't get everything flushed out of my aux oil cooler..... Guess it's nice to have 200-210° oil temp... Water flashes to steam quick
I haven't cut the filter open but I did save it. When I get some time I'll cut it open and see how it looks.
the first one will have crap in it but shouldnt be loaded with it. the second one should be pretty clean
Instead of wasting money on synthetic fluid for a built motor. Would it not make more sense to just use the continued brand oil, but change if more often? If you had funds' to build a motor, why not keep the oil as fresh, and clean as possible?
synthetic holds up to abuse better. i run dyno oil in the winter due to cooler temps and nicer on the wallet. Then swap to syn for the summer as my oil temps see over 260* at times pulling long grades. with the power i push and weight i carry, i want that protection when shes that hot and being pushed powerwise.
if you are racing, it would depend on what you feel is best. justifying why you go with the oil you have is more based on your theory/opinion than it is fact. we dont have the tech to say factually why and the internet/hear say is so full of oil BS anymore, its hard to say whats true and whats not
I was just always under the impression that synthetic oil held up to heat better. After watching my EGT gauges peak 1600 degrees quite frequently I figured anything I could do to keep $6000 worth of turbos and $20k worth of motor in good shape would be worth the extra $20 per oil change. I also do my oil more like 2500 miles so it isn't like I am looking to stretch intervals and save $$
I'm running rotela in mine for the first few oil changes, after that I'll be running Schafers moly bond. After seeing what my engine internals looked like when the oil pump went out I'm sold on it.
You and i both. in the off road world, there is a reason they all run full syn oils. they can withstand extreme much better. the only thing i cant find exact information on is when synthetic breaks down at what temp.