Brake help

Chevy1925

don't know sh!t about IFS
Staff member
Oct 21, 2009
21,685
5,840
113
Phoenix Az
Ok, i know this isnt a dmax (shame on me) but it could be generalized into our trucks :D.

Ive been fighting a brake issue in my samurai. For one, the brake lines have not been opened up in the last 8 years (7 of those were strictly wheelin years and it was trailered). about two weeks ago i noticed the pedal was starting to fall on initial braking and would require a pump or two to bring it back up. well both my front rotors were semi warpped so i changed them out for new ones and pads. put it back together and bled the brakes to get some fresh fluid in there. Made no change other than the vib upon braking stopped :D. drove it another week till yesterday so i could make it to the junk yard and find an upgraded larger master cylinder off a mazda as i was 90% sure my master cyl was shot. not to metion the bigger cyl would help with the yota axles im running and 35" tires. So i put it all together, bled the brakes and went for a drive. brakes still felt squishy so i fully flushed the whole system and found a bit of trapped air in the rear lines. went back out and the thing stop great ACCEPT when i turn left. if i turn right, go straight or back up, pedal stays solid. turn left and then hit the brakes and the pedal drops half way before stopping the sami. Tried to do a quick bleed again and no change. rear drums are adjsuted properly, wheel bearings are tight, calipers LOOK ok, no leaks, no loose lines, im kinda at a loss. im gunna try bleeding the system again and see what happens but hell, the crown vics i worked on used less brake fluid to flush the system than ive already run through this sami. No abs btw. any ideas?
 

MACKIN

Smell My Finger...
Aug 14, 2006
3,948
1
0
Connecticut
So everything is fine unless you turn left and stop? Don't turn left anymore that'll fix your problem! :D

Just a couple shots in th dark here.

Make sure the calipers are sliding free on the bolts. I normally put anti-seize on them upon assembly maybe one is sticking. Also I'd replace the rubber lines the feed the calipers perhaps they are restricting flow.

I'm assuming the problem is in the front as drum brakes are pretty simple usually a non issue there.

I'm sure you have turned the wheel to lock (left) and took a look to insure the line (rubber) isn't kinking or anything. IMO if they've never been changed they do constrict over time by deteriorating. Good luck
 

Chevy1925

don't know sh!t about IFS
Staff member
Oct 21, 2009
21,685
5,840
113
Phoenix Az
Did you bench bleed the master before install?

yes.

So everything is fine unless you turn left and stop? Don't turn left anymore that'll fix your problem! :D

Just a couple shots in th dark here.

Make sure the calipers are sliding free on the bolts. I normally put anti-seize on them upon assembly maybe one is sticking. Also I'd replace the rubber lines the feed the calipers perhaps they are restricting flow.

I'm assuming the problem is in the front as drum brakes are pretty simple usually a non issue there.

I'm sure you have turned the wheel to lock (left) and took a look to insure the line (rubber) isn't kinking or anything. IMO if they've never been changed they do constrict over time by deteriorating. Good luck

yeah pretty much! the front calipers are 4 piston calipers (two on each side of the caliper) so there are no sliders other than what the shoes ride one which is in good shape

yes, rear drums were just checked and gone through before all this started and it didnt start till sometime after. i may pull them and check them though, the right side return spring may be putting too much tension on the shoes and causing the wheel cylinder to completely return, not sure why it would matter when turning though if the wheel bearings are good.

i did check the lines for kinks and all looked good, they may need replacing though.