Braided brakelines and slotted rotors

[mike diesel]

Been looking into some new brakes for the truck today. Thinking about some braided lines and some slotted rotors and new pads.

I see Russell has some nice brake lines that majority of people seem to use.

Has anyone gone down to their local hydraulic shop and had some stainless braided brake lines custom made? Curious what the price is compared to the Russell lines. My local hydraulic shop advertises that they can make you any kind of brake line you want. I'll contact them tomorrow. Just curious if anyone has gone this route before?

Also looking into some slotted rotors for the front brakes. I hear nothing but bad about the eBay brake kits and I'm not willing to risk it. My question is...has anyone slotted their own set of rotors?

I have a mill and all the tooling, and would be curious how it'd turn out. Thinking I could run 5 or 6 .100" deep slots. Not sure how that would affect the rotor as far as its hardening/durability goes.

As you can tell, I'd rather " do it myself" and figure it out along the way than buy an already perfected kit:rofl:

 

[mike diesel]

A little back story here...I'm trying to combat an issue I have when staging at the track, the truck will walk through the brakes around 15 psi boost amd sometimes will even red light me.

For all I know, the brake lines that are on it are original and I am assuming that when I am staging, the harder I push the brake pedal, the more the brake line is expanding. So instead of equating to more holding power, the rubber brake lines are simply absorbing the additional pressure that is being applied.

 

[Bustedknuckles]

I have ebay brakes n love them. I'd at least price getting the lines made. Hydraulic stuff like that is surprisingly cheap.

 

[MAXX IT OUT]

From what i gather on brakes is slotting and drilling or dimpling the roters don't have a lot to do with creating stopping power, there are about keeping stopping power under heavy braking. The slots are for helping clean pad debris off the pad face, as for doing it yourself I am not sure if your was want to without some sort of heat treating after. You can try it, but i believe you would end up with cracked rotors.

 

[NRA223]

I have the Power Stop Extreme Truck & Tow kit on my truck ( slotted rotors and carbon infused ceramic pads). I got it on sale from Summit for $370 shipped. It stops the truck well and it will hold my truck back at 15 psi most of the time but it is right on the edge of what the brakes will hold. I think the stainless lines are what are going to be your biggest help. Let me know how they do because that might have to get added to my list.

 

[mike diesel]

I have ebay brakes n love them. I'd at least price getting the lines made. Hydraulic stuff like that is surprisingly cheap.

Would you happen to have a link to the ebay ad you purchased from?

From what i gather on brakes is slotting and drilling or dimpling the roters don't have a lot to do with creating stopping power, there are about keeping stopping power under heavy braking. The slots are for helping clean pad debris off the pad face, as for doing it yourself I am not sure if your was want to without some sort of heat treating after. You can try it, but i believe you would end up with cracked rotors.

I understand that the slotted rotors won't aid in holding the truck back on the line...but I do also trap 131+ mph in the 1/4 mile so keeping the stopping power is where I was going with wanting slotted rotors. I don't know though, I think I'll steer clear of doing my own slot job lol

I have the Power Stop Extreme Truck & Tow kit on my truck ( slotted rotors and carbon infused ceramic pads). I got it on sale from Summit for $370 shipped. It stops the truck well and it will hold my truck back at 15 psi most of the time but it is right on the edge of what the brakes will hold. I think the stainless lines are what are going to be your biggest help. Let me know how they do because that might have to get added to my list.

Yea i am also thinking the braided lines will be the biggest help. I'm thinking I might just throw some new pads on (rears are 90% worn anyways) and doing the braided lines and seeing where the truck is at after.

I've usually ran the cheap ceramic pads from napa, what can I expect going from the "cheaper" ceramic pads to the more expensive ceramic pads? I have about zero experience in setting up a solid braking system.

 

[NRA223]

My stock brakes were shot. The back side of the rotor had almost no contact patch left in some places. I've never seen brakes fail like that, i wish i took pictures. When i am staging i get to a point where the harder i push the peddle, the softer the peddle becomes it seems. I can usually hold back 15 psi but the peddle feel is gone. I'm not losing fluid so i know there isn't a leek. I think it is like you said and it is stretching the rubber lines instead of adding pressure at the caliper piston. I really feel braided is the ticket.

 

[Awenta]

If it was track only I wouldn't worry about slotting your own. Otherwise not worth the risk.

http://www.amazon.com/ACDelco-18A12...0&sr=1-5&ymm=2003:chevrolet:silverado+2500+hd

The stainless lines aren't expensive, if you get them made make sure you get the rear one too.

As far as pads look at the ebc yellowstuff. They have more bite. Otherwise ac delco ceramic

Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk

 

[TheBac]

RockAuto has some decent deals on Powerstop rotors and pads. I have the same setup as NRA waiting to be installed on the 1/2. Russell braided are a good idea in a performance application, Mike. Does your safety really have a price?

 

[Moneywellspent]

Power stop drilled and slotted rotors with pads aren't going to break the bank.

K2073-36

For about 5-600 bucks for the Russell lines and power stop rotors you can't really beat that unless you wanna drop some serious coin on wilwoods

 

[mike diesel]

Looks like I have a good bit of research to do to find out exactly what I want/need.

 

[ikeG]

The Russell lines are much cheaper from Summit too.

 

[S Phinney]

Carbon brakes stop best. They also have the higher residue. Using those with slotted and dimpled not drilled will give you the best brakes. I use factory Brake lines still and with my brakes there is no problems holding it back or stopping from high speeds. My truck also will trap 130 plus.

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

 

[malibu795]

I just put napa ultra premium rotors on the front non slotted/cross drilled
105.00 each plus ultra premium pads. at 80.00 for the front...
along with a couple good power steering flush to ATF.. truck stops very well..

only thing that sucks is my brake line run metric vs sae fitting the lbz and older trucks run.. and no one afaik makes metric SS braided line kit..

id look at putting SSBC triple piston calipers on as well


FWIW I have no issue with brake fade under sustained use, long grades at weight.

 

[Burn Down]

Is your power steering pump and Hydroboost in good condition?

 

[SwitchBack]

From my car modding days I read many studies that said slotted rotors arent all they are cracked up to be. Basically reducing the brake pad surface area was more detrimental to stoping the vehicle than it was beneficial.

These studies could have been biased but they seem to make sense to me. Its something to look into none the less.

 

[Mike L.]

Ever think about the converter? Just a thought.

 

[mike diesel]

Is your power steering pump and Hydroboost in good condition?

As far as i can tell, it is in good condition. The power steering pump is less than 2 years old and has maybe 1 year old fluid in it. I will flush that again though and do new PS fluid and brake fluid.

I think triple piston wilwoods are a little overkill.

Ok so here is what I'll start with this week...New pads all around (undecided which ones yet), new brake fluid, new power steering fluid and also some stainless braided lines.

I'll see where I'm at after that.

 

[DIESELMAFIAPER.LB7]

Going to do this myself just trying to figure out what's going to best to spend money on first

 

[mike diesel]

Ever think about the converter? Just a thought.

Converter is a fairly new suncoast 1053-1. Might have 4000 miles on it...but it has lived most of its life above 800+ hp.

The truck has done this even back when I had a precision ML as well as a 1055. I'd assume it's not converter related but i could be wrong.