bottle test on lb7
- Thread starter 02dirty
- Start date
Well IIRC that might be a little more difficult because again IIRC the lines are Td into the injctor return lines
Sorry but mine is all been modified so its been a while since ive seen stock
Honestly I would probably just use a set of vice grips and pinch the return line off the pop valve as long as is doesnt interfere with the injector return if the hose blows off you know its leaking
Sorry I cant help anymore if you had a pic of a stock one i might be able to help more
Sorry but mine is all been modified so its been a while since ive seen stock
Honestly I would probably just use a set of vice grips and pinch the return line off the pop valve as long as is doesnt interfere with the injector return if the hose blows off you know its leaking
Sorry I cant help anymore if you had a pic of a stock one i might be able to help more
really aint a way with the stock junction block and return lines from what i can tell, the fuel return fro the fprv goes to a banjo bolt that ties into the injector/pump return steel lines
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here is how to do bottle test on LB7
1.Remove Air Duct from Air Cleaner Assembly to Turbo inlet. Refer to Air Cleaner Intake Duct Replacement.
2.Remove Air Intake Pipe. Refer to Air Intake Pipe Replacement.
3.Remove the fuel injection pump fuel return rubber hose from the junction block (2). Cap the fitting on the block with a 3/8 inch rubber cap (1) to prevent fuel leakage.
4.Attach a rubber hose (1) with a barbed fitting to the fuel injection pump return hose and insert other end into a 1 gallon clean fuel container (2).
5.Remove the retaining clip from the fuel return line.
6.Using the J 44581, disconnect the fuel return line from the fuel junction block. Refer to Quick Connect Fitting(s) Service (Metal Collar).
7.Connect a 3/8 inch hose (1) on the fuel return fitting and place the other end of the hose into a 1 liter (1.06 quart) container (2) for measuring liquids.
8.Remove the Ignition 1 Relay using the J 43244 Relay Puller Pliers.
9.Crank the engine for 15 seconds .
10.Measure the quantity of fuel in the container.
•If there is more than 59 ml (2.0 oz) , replace the Fuel Pressure Relief Valve. refer to Fuel Pressure Relief Valve Replacement
•If there is less than 59 ml (2.0 oz) , replace the Fuel Injection Pump. Refer to Fuel Injection Pump Replacement.
11.Reinstall all disconnected and removed components. Refer to the applicable procedures.
1.Remove Air Duct from Air Cleaner Assembly to Turbo inlet. Refer to Air Cleaner Intake Duct Replacement.
2.Remove Air Intake Pipe. Refer to Air Intake Pipe Replacement.
3.Remove the fuel injection pump fuel return rubber hose from the junction block (2). Cap the fitting on the block with a 3/8 inch rubber cap (1) to prevent fuel leakage.
4.Attach a rubber hose (1) with a barbed fitting to the fuel injection pump return hose and insert other end into a 1 gallon clean fuel container (2).
5.Remove the retaining clip from the fuel return line.
6.Using the J 44581, disconnect the fuel return line from the fuel junction block. Refer to Quick Connect Fitting(s) Service (Metal Collar).
7.Connect a 3/8 inch hose (1) on the fuel return fitting and place the other end of the hose into a 1 liter (1.06 quart) container (2) for measuring liquids.
8.Remove the Ignition 1 Relay using the J 43244 Relay Puller Pliers.
9.Crank the engine for 15 seconds .
10.Measure the quantity of fuel in the container.
•If there is more than 59 ml (2.0 oz) , replace the Fuel Pressure Relief Valve. refer to Fuel Pressure Relief Valve Replacement
•If there is less than 59 ml (2.0 oz) , replace the Fuel Injection Pump. Refer to Fuel Injection Pump Replacement.
11.Reinstall all disconnected and removed components. Refer to the applicable procedures.
Anyone have good pictures/ write up on how to do this?
my buddies truck is now throwing low rail psi code after we did ported fuel rail fittings & bullet. looking to shim the rail and might just do that as it sounds like its just asmuch work to even test it...
my buddies truck is now throwing low rail psi code after we did ported fuel rail fittings & bullet. looking to shim the rail and might just do that as it sounds like its just asmuch work to even test it...
On a stock LB7 there is no way to do a bottle test to check the popoff. Then again how many have ever had a LB7 pop it open. I have tuned trucks for guys running 200MPA of rail pressure, and none of them have popped it(your riding a FINE line going this high with a stock rail pressure sensor as it isn't really accurate that high up even with the rail pressure sensor rescaled).
Resurrecting this one for a question. It looks like you have to get pretty much exactly 59 ml in that test or something is bad? For clarity, what is a passing condition in this test?