Boost Tubes

racinmike77

New member
Sep 14, 2008
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MD
I am considering purchasing the boost tubes for my LLY. What gains can I expect and why do you only offer hot side tubes??
 

LarryJewell

Back with his honey :)
Jan 21, 2007
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San Angelo
anytime you can go bigger (to an extent) you are better off. I installed both the hot and cold side on mine. This is just one more link in the restrictive puzzle, IMO, you should get both if your going to do the switch.
 

Killerbee

Got Honey?
Guess I should answer questions in my own forum. Sorry bout that.

Mike, this takes an explanation of what happens to the air in the system, from beginning to end. While the same "weight" of air comes out, as goes in, the velocity (and density) of the air is changing. When it comes out of the turbo it is very hot, and very fast. The faster it is the more friction.

When it comes out of the CAC, it is colder, denser and slower (compartively). Less friction. It is my conclusion that the hot side benefits much more from upsizing. This is because frictional head losses are 5 times what they are on the cold side, due to the much higher tube velocity.

This is why I have made the decision to offer hot side only, it saves money, while accomplishing about the same improvement.

As far as what they accomplish, you will see about a 50 degree temperature reduction at compressor discharge, and 2 psi less (plenum stays the same). If you command more boost through tuning, it will do so with lower turbo rpm, and less heat production. This translates to less parasitic activity, and a few more HP, though I know of no dyno testing on them to date.

Hope that helps.
 

jpowel29

Member
Feb 1, 2008
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Bentonville, Arkansas
Michael,

I got the driver's side boost tube on. It looks great and installation was a breeze. While I was under the hood I swapped in a 3.5" V-Band compressor outlet flange to eliminate the necked down restriction coming out on my compressor. Compressor side of my turbo is breathing easier now.

Do you have any recommendations on upgrading the post intercooler tubing into the intake? I don't mind replacing the factory cast piping or air intake heater grid.

Thanks
John
 

LarryJewell

Back with his honey :)
Jan 21, 2007
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San Angelo
Michael,

I got the driver's side boost tube on. It looks great and installation was a breeze. While I was under the hood I swapped in a 3.5" V-Band compressor outlet flange to eliminate the necked down restriction coming out on my compressor. Compressor side of my turbo is breathing easier now.

Do you have any recommendations on upgrading the post intercooler tubing into the intake? I don't mind replacing the factory cast piping or air intake heater grid.

Thanks
John


got a pic :D

you can use a banks boost tube on the passenger side, its not restricted, here's mine thru the wheel well
 

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Killerbee

Got Honey?
Do you have any recommendations on upgrading the post intercooler tubing into the intake? I don't mind replacing the factory cast piping or air intake heater grid.

Thanks
John

It is not going to help you unless you push at least 70 lb/minute. IOW, with stock turbo, the cold side is already relatively restriction free. Remember, after passing through the CAC, there is a huge velocity reduction with its density increase.

You have done all that is practical at this point. If one were to determine that 3" is necessary on the cold side, this would necessarily mean that your hot side would be undersized at 3", and would need to go to 3.5".

I hope I am making sense here. :)
 

hdd-max

New member
Apr 30, 2008
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It is not going to help you unless you push at least 70 lb/minute. IOW, with stock turbo, the cold side is already relatively restriction free. Remember, after passing through the CAC, there is a huge velocity reduction with its density increase.

You have done all that is practical at this point. If one were to determine that 3" is necessary on the cold side, this would necessarily mean that your hot side would be undersized at 3", and would need to go to 3.5".

I hope I am making sense here. :)

He has an aftermarket turbo and an aftermarket CAC. I am also curious what the solution would be and when its needed.
 

super diesel

<<<< Under Pressure
Do you think we should run 3.5" on the hot side if were running big singles like 4202 or larger? Would it help? I am running an LB7 but was wondering if I should cut out the steps in the I/C tubes to take advantage of the full dia. Or just step up to the 3.5". I'm seeing 50+ psi on the 4202 and dual pumps. What do you think with the compounding too (heat)?
 

Killerbee

Got Honey?
If over 90 lb/minute, 3.5" would be a benefit. But it would really need a newly designed CAC as well, with 3.5" hot side connections. As you say, it also depends on efficiency (heat). The less efficient, the bigger you want.

However, pre-turbo fogging would slow air charge down enough to make 3" very feasible. 3.5" is very expensive and big, there are maybe a handful of places in the country that mandrel bend 3.5". I found one, and the prices were scary.

IMO.

why do i have a red dot next to my name?
 
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MAXLLY

No Lemming Here
Aug 15, 2007
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San Diego
OT-somewhat.

4" mandrel bends (U's) 8" center with 11" legs are $60 my cost. 3.5" is prolly mid $50's.
 

Noreaster

Active member
Jun 13, 2007
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If over 90 lb/minute, 3.5" would be a benefit. But it would really need a newly designed CAC as well, with 3.5" hot side connections. As you say, it also depends on efficiency (heat). The less efficient, the bigger you want.

However, pre-turbo fogging would slow air charge down enough to make 3" very feasible. 3.5" is very expensive and big, there are maybe a handful of places in the country that mandrel bend 3.5". I found one, and the prices were scary.
IMO.
why do i have a red dot next to my name?

90lb/minute is gt42/s400 territory
A place that does diesel exhaust systems could make. Would the Alum. they use for exhaust be too thick?
 

super diesel

<<<< Under Pressure
90lb/minute is gt42/s400 territory
A place that does diesel exhaust systems could make. Would the Alum. they use for exhaust be too thick?

I'm not sure, but I tried this with an intake I made up one time. I found it retained alot of heat from the motor. You would think aluminum tubing would do this too. But the intake was realy (very) hot to the touch. I didn't find this the case with the aluminum intake (wicking the heat away better maybe?). Maybe Killerbee can comment on this?