Apparently its a bad idea to DD on an 800rwhp+ tune, no fun driving on a 600 tune though. Pretty sure I cracked or blew a hole through a cast cut and coated piston. Thought I'd be safe with those pistons but the white smoke coming out the exhaust, massive amounts of blow by, violent rock, and blown front and rear main seals tell a different story. Hoping for a cracked piston and not a broken crank. Truck broke on a WOT run with the race tune.
Current set up:
Crower rods
Cut and coated SoCal pistons
Arp 625 Head studs and main studs
SoCal Stage 1 Heads
Comp Cams Cam
Everything Keyed
80% Big Dipper Injectors
RDL Manifolds and Up Pipes
MPI S366 and s480 Twins
PPE Dual Fueler
Banks IC
All of the rest supporting mods: Suncoast Stage 4, 1056, Fass 260, etc
New Set Up:
Mahle Forged Pistons
ATI Dampner
Tigged Waterpump
Maybe:
SoCal Stage 2 Heads
RDL Extreme Headers and Up Pipes
100% Exergy Injectors (1 of the Big Dippers went bad and was replaced already, 2 more had questionable balance rates which might have caused the engine failure)
Different cam made for valve relief cut pistons
ML Converter (defuels bad at <WOT, WOT spooled launches shifts great)
Goals:
900rwhp DD that that doesn't explode.
Going to pull and disassemble the engine over Thanksgiving break and tear it down starting tonight. Will have the machining done in December and put it back together over Christmas break.
Questions:
I saw Chevy1925's build thread, he pulled the front clip and am considering this as well for simplicity's sake. Only difference is that this is a NNBS and his is a NBS, is it still worth doing? Or can I get away with leaving the clip on? Want to keep AC lines intact. Also truck has a 4" Cognito. Already read BMDmax's engine removal guide.
Engine disassembly do's and don'ts? I know about the rear engine plate and to remove it before mounting onto engine stand already, label everything etc. I have the GM instructions for everything as well from a friend that works at the dealership.
Current set up:
Crower rods
Cut and coated SoCal pistons
Arp 625 Head studs and main studs
SoCal Stage 1 Heads
Comp Cams Cam
Everything Keyed
80% Big Dipper Injectors
RDL Manifolds and Up Pipes
MPI S366 and s480 Twins
PPE Dual Fueler
Banks IC
All of the rest supporting mods: Suncoast Stage 4, 1056, Fass 260, etc
New Set Up:
Mahle Forged Pistons
ATI Dampner
Tigged Waterpump
Maybe:
SoCal Stage 2 Heads
RDL Extreme Headers and Up Pipes
100% Exergy Injectors (1 of the Big Dippers went bad and was replaced already, 2 more had questionable balance rates which might have caused the engine failure)
Different cam made for valve relief cut pistons
ML Converter (defuels bad at <WOT, WOT spooled launches shifts great)
Goals:
900rwhp DD that that doesn't explode.
Going to pull and disassemble the engine over Thanksgiving break and tear it down starting tonight. Will have the machining done in December and put it back together over Christmas break.
Questions:
I saw Chevy1925's build thread, he pulled the front clip and am considering this as well for simplicity's sake. Only difference is that this is a NNBS and his is a NBS, is it still worth doing? Or can I get away with leaving the clip on? Want to keep AC lines intact. Also truck has a 4" Cognito. Already read BMDmax's engine removal guide.
Engine disassembly do's and don'ts? I know about the rear engine plate and to remove it before mounting onto engine stand already, label everything etc. I have the GM instructions for everything as well from a friend that works at the dealership.
