Found my water pump leaking about a week or so ago, got a new pump buy before I installed it I wanted to explore y it blew the seal. I ran a "redneck" leak down by adapting my compression tester to blow compressed air into the cylinders, about 150psi. All passed until I got to cylinder, you guessed it, number 7. Leakage into coolant. I'm making preparation to pull the engine to make things easier. The truck is was a fleet truck used to pull new rv's and other commodities. It has 340k on the clock. The truck is a 2005 lly dirtymax. Most of the truck is stock except egr has been blocked and efi dsp5 programmed, along with lbz turbo mouthpeice and pic reroute. Since I'm pulling the motor and pretty much rebuilding the top end I was wondering what else I should check. I have plans to send the heads to a machine shop and remove and possibly have the turbo rebuilt.
Blown head gaskets, what else to check replace?
- Thread starter wolfmannxx
- Start date
Remove the EGR, install a higher flowing y-bridge. If you can swing it upgrade to some of Profab's manifolds & up-pipes.
I mainly drive back and forth to work, using fuel economy tune but I do tow some, but not like I'm pulling 20k or anything like that
With that many miles it wouldn't be a bad idea to throw a new CP3 on it at that point while it's all apart and it will be right in front of you. I would do that before any of the easier stuff.
I just did this.I would highly recommend if you can to raise the cab and the front clip instead of removing the engine. It is much faster and easier. I would also change the downpipe. $120 cost on that and doesnt get any easier with things all put together.
Unfortunately I don't have access to a lift I'm doing this in my 2 car garage that has a attic. A lift is on my list whe I add on to the garage (that is a dream cause my wife will probably never let me do)!
I have a set of LLY heads decked and valve job completed if your interested they are bolt on ready.
After removing the heads, take them to a reputable machine shop to have them checked and decked for flatness. Make sure to get thicker gaskets (grade C), and ARP Head Studs. Up to you on how far you want to go with upgrades. While the heads are off almost everything is easier to get too( Turbo, Down Pipe, Manifolds & up-pipes, Y bridge, EGR delete, Injectors, fuel rail shim kit ) that's what I can think of now. Like mentioned above, down pipe is cheap and easy to install at this point.
You're already having the heads looked at, and good idea to have someone like Russell (yellowchevy) look over the turbo, so smart moves there.
I would remove the EGR system, replace the water pump and the CP3 as stated above. Head studs are a good idea, too.
I would NOT do the downpipe or manifolds....a stock truck does not need them. Use that money to buy a decent lift pump/filter setup.
I would remove the EGR system, replace the water pump and the CP3 as stated above. Head studs are a good idea, too.
I would NOT do the downpipe or manifolds....a stock truck does not need them. Use that money to buy a decent lift pump/filter setup.
While I understand TheBac reasoning on the lift pump. I will say the lift pump is easy to do and accessible. The others are not. While everything is tore down is the best time to do those mods. In the long run it will save you a lot of time, busted knuckles, blood and sweat. Just my humble opinion. Of course if you are not looking for anything but stock then by all means do the lift pump and skip those other items.
Doing your own headgaskets is a great experience in my opinion. It took me 4 days to have my truck torn down and running again. About 5-6 hours Monday through wednesday and about 12 hours on Thursday, this included down time like resurfacing, cleaning, and porting my heads, installing my downpipe, etc.
I'm just taking my time, I work 3rd shift as a truck driver at a local factory. So I'm only able to put a couple hours a day into it. Started on it Sunday, and in 1 hour I had the cac Tubes, bretaher, and most of front clip done, yesterday I got the intercooler, radiator, trans cooler, ac condenser and core support out so now all that I have to do is some electrical and tranny and she will be ready to come out. I'm not planning on making big power, but more for reliability. I does have a 120 hp tune, but I shy away from it mainly cause I can't afford a tranny. Plus she is getting up there in years and I don't want to push the rods, pistons, and all the other stuff, all though I will b checking rods and mains for wear, ect...
Well crap, got the motor out and opened and this is what I find on cylinder 2. My question is what caused this, moisture. And can head b reused? Cylinder walls or smooth, no pits or scratches.
