best mods for the money?

[radvans]

I dont agree.... I snapped 3 tie rods and screwed up my pitman/idler with my last 05 with stock trans easily.

you can if you race but he is not going to race so he really shouldn't be doing any 4wd launches. Stock tire rods will survive as long as you don't do major off roading or 4wd launches. Mine did for 4 years of towing and driving in the Glamis sand with 35's. If he said he was going to hook or race I would say the sleeves would be a good investment to start...but even then lowering the tbars helps alot.

Still the best bang for the buck is a programmer....and the best programmer currently is efi.

 

[Diesel Pilot]

Here's what I think.

A programmer that can go up to 100 hp but not much higher would help in towing and mileage. Predator is pretty good one. When towing keep it around 40-60 hp tunes if you can.

Front end bracing is a must also since the truck is getting up there in age and it's a cheap fix that lasts forever.

Exhaust adds cool factor, not really sure if it will add much performance at less than 100 hp tuning but it will help with EGT's.

Gauges are for Gee Whiz factor at lower power levels. The only way you would even need an EGT gauge is if you pull long grades and are on a crazy tune. Ask how many of these guys actually back out of there trucks when running the crap out of them because the EGT gauge goes above 1500 degrees......... Here that.... It's crickets. Most of the time nobody even pays attention to those extra gauges unless you are doing some serious towing. Then again you shouldn't be towing with a tune large enough to send the EGT's into the stratosphere anyway. Boost gauge for an LB7 is completely worthless unless you go with an aftermarket waste gate, and those aren't needed either. Just looking out for your pocket. If you want gauges then that's cool, but not a necessity.

Sounds like you've already got a hot rod so leave the racing to that thing. Keep the truck as your tow rig and daily and you'll save a ton of money. Save the built tranny for later. That's a big investment and with a smaller programmer not even close to being needed.

So basically, a tuner from one of the vendors here can get you 100hp for about $300, the front end bracing stuff, and an exhaust are about all you should need unless you want to race/pull your truck. That should come in at less than a grand. You can add an intake if you want to go that route but I'm not totally sold that they do much at less than 100 extra hp.

Those probably aren't too popular with the performance crowd here but it's practical. If you decide to go for bigger and better things then we are here to help you spend your money.

 

[Diesel Pilot]

Don't even think about EFI Live unless your TA is an LS1, then you should get it.

You can buy 2 programmers for the cost of EFI Live and although I am a huge fan of the program, it is a lot of money for someone that doesn't have any major performance goals in mind for their truck. It's cool to play with but like I said $300 buys a really nice programmer from about anyone.

If the TA is an LS1, then you should already own EFI Live or HP Tuners and your tuner problem is already solved.

 

[Diesel Pilot]

Ohh almost forgot!

Check out the garage sale section, lots of money can be saved there.

F'n TRIPLE POST! :rockon:

 

[Whitetail Addict]

Here's what I think.



Gauges are for Gee Whiz factor at lower power levels. The only way you would even need an EGT gauge is if you pull long grades and are on a crazy tune. Ask how many of these guys actually back out of there trucks when running the crap out of them because the EGT gauge goes above 1500 degrees......... Here that.... It's crickets. Most of the time nobody even pays attention to those extra gauges unless you are doing some serious towing. Then again you shouldn't be towing with a tune large enough to send the EGT's into the stratosphere anyway. Boost gauge for an LB7 is completely worthless unless you go with an aftermarket waste gate, and those aren't needed either. Just looking out for your pocket. If you want gauges then that's cool, but not a necessity.

I have to disagree with the above statement on the pyrometer.

My LB7 with stock tuning has seen 1400* unloaded. I know the extra timing in a tow tune should lower egts (depending on the amount of fuel added) but I think they are still worth monitoring.

Also I watch my pyrometer more than my speedometer every time I drive my truck.

 

[Barlow]

Thanks for all the quick replys... yeah my T/A has an LS1 so the efi live will program it also? I may run the qarter evry now and then with the truck but im not gonna be competing with it. I do want to make it haul ass, and probably lay some positrac black marks... ive seen big ass diesels do it and man the look on peoples face is awesome. So for the tranny upgrades what are we talkin? will say a efi live 150-200hp tune kill the allison from the occasional burn out or what?

 

[WanaDmaxsub]

90% of the trucks in this forum were bought just to tow something, including several race cars...alot of those cars are now collecting dust or sharing track time with the "tow" truck.

A 90 RWHP tune will kill the tranny eventually. It's the 4-5 and 5-4 shifts that are the hardest on it. I ran a 120 tune for 5k miles before I limped my tranny the first time. Then 10k on a 90 tune before it limped again. Now I have an SCIII built by MikeL. Don't go cheap on the tranny! It will cost you later. A transgo jr will not work on an '01.

Biggest bang for the buck on the exhaust is to replace the muffler with an aftermarket free flowing. The muffler is the biggest restriction in the exhaust. No performance gains but it will lower your EGTs.

No crickets here...I use both my boost and EGT gauge. When towing I back out at 1350!

 

[Pondsy]

A transgo jr will not work on an '01.

True - sorry for the false info in my post!

 

[LarryJewell]

fftopic:


ok guys, multiple posts are not needed, there is another thread for post whoring

 

[LarryJewell]

back on topic:

egt & boost guage (I like gauges)
Exhaust
CAI
EFI (might as well get it now, you will eventually so there's no need in paying for a lessor programmer up front like so many of us did)
Trans upgrade

 

[SmokeShow]

two best bang-for-your-buck mods are tie rod sleeves and built transmission. Withouth either of them you can't really play with much extra power. Once you have both of those, the tuning can be increased substantially and that will necessitate the need for the bigger exhausts, gauges, lift pumps, air intakes, etc.

Until those first two things are had, I wouldn't waste my money on anything. If you never plan to go more than 80-100rwhp extra, then scrap the transmission build and stick to a small tune. For that, I really don't think anything is required. EGTs shouldn't get out of hand, exhaust should flow plenty at that level, as should the air intake, etc. You probably would still want the tie rod sleeves though as a 4wd boosted launch, even with a stock truck is going to eventually bend the tie rods.


That's my $.02 Looks like I'm pretty much in agreement with Craig. :hug:

 

[othrgrl]

Most of the other guys have already mentioned much of this but I'll summarize and add approximate prices to much of it.

Tie Rod Sleeves - $85 - Cheap assurance that you aren't going to bend a wimpy GM tie rod while offroading, sled pulling, or 4WD launches

Staight Centerlink - $285 - or the support kit is slightly cheaper but IMO isn't quite as bullet proof - more assurance that the steering geometry is going to stay consistant during 4WD pulling or racing

PPE Boost Valve - $28 - Cheap upgrade to get the full potential out of a stock LB7 turbo

Stainless exhaust - $350 up to whatever they charge for RBP - if you are taking the factory stainless off why put cheap aluminized on? As everyone said lower EGTs, maybe some better economy - 4" is enough

For tuning the only thing I would recommend is EFI Live, esecially for you. EFI Live comes with 2 VIN licenses (you can tune 2 vehicles with it straight out of the box) and it will work with your TA as well as pretty much any 97-98+ GM vehicle. For $799 you get the most powerful tuning tool available for the Duramax and your car and it comes with at least one tune with purchase. It is infinitely adjustable and will grow with your truck and car as you make modifications. You can get or make tunes from stock to over 500 rwhp on the stock turbo; including really nice tow tunes and +100rwhp tunes that will blow most cheap tuners out of the water for drivability while being trans safe. When you upgrade the trans to handle more all you do is make (or have one made by your tuner) a 500hp tune, when you upgrade the turbo make the appropriate adjustments and load in another new tune for more power. No selling the 100hp cheap tuner that you grew out of in a month - you'll see 100 cheap tuners for sale used before you'll see one used EFI Live unit for sale

Trans upgrades - $2225 - $4400 ranging from doing a Stage III yourself to a Stage IV installed, with some options and full of shaeffer's synthetic ready to roll. Necessary when you get over about 360hp to the tires and as anyone with a built trans will tell you - worth every penny.

Intake - I run and like S&B which runs $262 for your truck. I would say it only becomes necessary when adding more than 100hp

Lift pump - I run and recommend the AirDog for $499 but there are cheaper alternatives with less features available. Once you have a built trans and want to run bigger tunes this become necessary.

 

[sweetdiesel]

Also whatch out for the head gaskets on an 01 truck

X2 i would want to check and see if they have been replaced recently.

Dosnt the 01s have a factory speed/rev limit that is lower than others?

I actually run a 02 op system in my 01

 

[othrgrl]

X2 i would want to check and see if they have been replaced recently.

Dosnt the 01s have a factory speed/rev limit that is lower than others?

I actually run a 02 op system in my 01

It's best to update to an 02 OS any time you EFI Live tune an 01. Most of the 01 OS's have some weird tuning quirks that can have you chasing your tail. If you compare an 01 OS tune to an 02 you will also notice that much of the tuning is fairly rough, meaning the breakpoints along the axis are much further apart and don't allow you to fine tune the truck near as much.

Barlow, your EFI Live vendor/tuner should know this and get you hooked up.

 

[TheBac]

Most of the other guys have already mentioned much of this but I'll summarize and add approximate prices to much of it.

Tie Rod Sleeves - $85 - Cheap assurance that you aren't going to bend a wimpy GM tie rod while offroading, sled pulling, or 4WD launches

Staight Centerlink - $285 - or the support kit is slightly cheaper but IMO isn't quite as bullet proof - more assurance that the steering geometry is going to stay consistant during 4WD pulling or racing

PPE Boost Valve - $28 - Cheap upgrade to get the full potential out of a stock LB7 turbo

Stainless exhaust - $350 up to whatever they charge for RBP - if you are taking the factory stainless off why put cheap aluminized on? As everyone said lower EGTs, maybe some better economy - 4" is enough

For tuning the only thing I would recommend is EFI Live, esecially for you. EFI Live comes with 2 VIN licenses (you can tune 2 vehicles with it straight out of the box) and it will work with your TA as well as pretty much any 97-98+ GM vehicle. For $799 you get the most powerful tuning tool available for the Duramax and your car and it comes with at least one tune with purchase. It is infinitely adjustable and will grow with your truck and car as you make modifications. You can get or make tunes from stock to over 500 rwhp on the stock turbo; including really nice tow tunes and +100rwhp tunes that will blow most cheap tuners out of the water for drivability while being trans safe. When you upgrade the trans to handle more all you do is make (or have one made by your tuner) a 500hp tune, when you upgrade the turbo make the appropriate adjustments and load in another new tune for more power. No selling the 100hp cheap tuner that you grew out of in a month - you'll see 100 cheap tuners for sale used before you'll see one used EFI Live unit for sale

Trans upgrades - $2225 - $4400 ranging from doing a Stage III yourself to a Stage IV installed, with some options and full of shaeffer's synthetic ready to roll. Necessary when you get over about 360hp to the tires and as anyone with a built trans will tell you - worth every penny.

Intake - I run and like S&B which runs $262 for your truck. I would say it only becomes necessary when adding more than 100hp

Lift pump - I run and recommend the AirDog for $499 but there are cheaper alternatives with less features available. Once you have a built trans and want to run bigger tunes this become necessary.

I 100% concur with this post. For about $6000 you'll have a 12 second truck that is a hoot to drive and still do everything you ask of it.

 

[sweetdiesel]

It's best to update to an 02 OS any time you EFI Live tune an 01. Most of the 01 OS's have some weird tuning quirks that can have you chasing your tail. If you compare an 01 OS tune to an 02 you will also notice that much of the tuning is fairly rough, meaning the breakpoints along the axis are much further apart and don't allow you to fine tune the truck near as much.

Barlow, your EFI Live vendor/tuner should know this and get you hooked up.

Yes i agree ......Point is, No one told him and he may want to consider this before getting a canned tune.

Personally i prefer the banks wastegate over the ppe valve but thats just my opinion

And for the people that comment on they look at there gauges when towing? Unless you are tuning the truck you shouldnt need to be concerned about a tow tune? If you are its NOT a good tow tune.

 

[othrgrl]

Yes i agree ......Point is, No one told him and he may want to consider this before getting a canned tune.

Personally i prefer the banks wastegate over the ppe valve but thats just my opinion

And for the people that comment on they look at there gauges when towing? Unless you are tuning the truck you shouldnt need to be concerned about a tow tune? If you are its NOT a good tow tune.

All good points.

The wastegate is alot more than the PPE valve and he did say for the money.

And I completely agree about the gauges. Just sent a guy with a 27,000 GVW (truck and trailer with 2 big jeeps on the trailer) on a cross country round trip with no gauges with our tow tune without any worries.