Ok guys I know that we all love performance here but I know that I myself sometimes need a reminder to do the usual stuff to keep normal parts on my truck reliable. Please add to this as I know I will forget stuff. I especially check this all out before and during hunting season as I do not want to be stranded in the boonies 
Engine oil- Pretty obvious but keeping your thumb on it really tells you alot about your motor (especially if you have an LB7).
Engine coolant- Another very obvious one, check for fluid level, color, and to see if the tank has any pressure in it. This will also be very tell tale of your motors condition (headgaskets, injector cups, etc).
Power steering fluid- Hydroboost needs fluid to work! Check and flush as necessary, if you are losing fluid you most likely have a failure/leak somewhere in the system.
Fuel filter- In my experience the OEM one usually can last about 15k with a secondary filter before it. I bought a regular 14-1 thread filter head from napa and use baldwin BF7633 filters and has worked out great. There are other numerous filters you can use, Wix and CAT both have good filters that will work.
Serpentine belt- Should probably be changed every 2 to 3 years as its a cheap fix and can help you avoid being totally stranded. Check for signs of wear every oil change.
Trans Fluid-Make sure its not overfull! Halfway up the hot mark IIRC is good.
Trans spin on filter- Should be changed every oil change to keep your alli shifting happily
Tcase Fluid- Check it and refill through the sensor hole as necessary, I put 3 quarts in mine.
Differential Fluid- Again obvious but I know all of us forget at one time or another.
Wheel Bearings-Jack the truck up so the front wheel is off the ground, and push/pull on the tire to see if it moves. If you have movement, its time for a new wheel bearing. I suggest the Timken ones as I have had crummy luck with others lasting less than 20k miles.
U joints- These are designed to fail before other parts in your drivetrain as they are cheaper than tailhousings. Id go with spicer units but at least stay away from greasable as the solids have proven to be much stronger.
Pitman arm, Idler and idler pivot- Check these for play, you can do this by having someone jiggle the steering wheel while you are underneath looking for slop in them. Also check the idler pivot as it FREQUENTLY wiggles itself loose. Mine has almost freed itself from the truck. I have put mine on with red loctite and its yet to free itself again.
UCA ball joints- These too go south often, and the bad part is that you usually need a whole new control arm as if youve ever pressed a new ball joint in an old control arm they often fall right out. Cognito makes control arms that have screw in ball joints which are easily replaceable.
Grease front end linkage- I have a buddy who owns a semi shop and they grease their stuff religiously to keep things wearing nicely. Check all boots and whatnot on greased items. If the boots are ripped grease is worthless as it will just make dirt and grime stick in the joint. A good tube of synthetic grease is cheap and goes a long way.
Brake fluid- Should be changed every 2-3 years, you can tell by the color of the fluid. If its brown and murky looking, its definately time to flush the system.
Glow plugs- Cheap and easy! Be careful when taking them out as they get pretty bound up if they get salt or water on them over time. Mine have fizzled out on me before, and its not fun to start a cold diesel with only a few working glow plugs.
Motor mounts- These do rip somewhat often as well, and will start making stuff shake unnecessarily. I also suggest Johnboy's Motor Mount Fix which can be found here
Up pipe bolts- You would be surprised at how much these back out after you first tighten them after a turbo/up pipe swap.
I know I am forgetting things so please add as necessary! These are just things I have found on my truck and said "Holy crap what if I didnt catch this?" This is intended to keep trucks of all types running happily from bone stock to street sweeper. Alot of these parts can be found through our vendors such as Henry or Chad, so lets support the guys who support our site.
Engine oil- Pretty obvious but keeping your thumb on it really tells you alot about your motor (especially if you have an LB7).
Engine coolant- Another very obvious one, check for fluid level, color, and to see if the tank has any pressure in it. This will also be very tell tale of your motors condition (headgaskets, injector cups, etc).
Power steering fluid- Hydroboost needs fluid to work! Check and flush as necessary, if you are losing fluid you most likely have a failure/leak somewhere in the system.
Fuel filter- In my experience the OEM one usually can last about 15k with a secondary filter before it. I bought a regular 14-1 thread filter head from napa and use baldwin BF7633 filters and has worked out great. There are other numerous filters you can use, Wix and CAT both have good filters that will work.
Serpentine belt- Should probably be changed every 2 to 3 years as its a cheap fix and can help you avoid being totally stranded. Check for signs of wear every oil change.
Trans Fluid-Make sure its not overfull! Halfway up the hot mark IIRC is good.
Trans spin on filter- Should be changed every oil change to keep your alli shifting happily
Tcase Fluid- Check it and refill through the sensor hole as necessary, I put 3 quarts in mine.
Differential Fluid- Again obvious but I know all of us forget at one time or another.
Wheel Bearings-Jack the truck up so the front wheel is off the ground, and push/pull on the tire to see if it moves. If you have movement, its time for a new wheel bearing. I suggest the Timken ones as I have had crummy luck with others lasting less than 20k miles.
U joints- These are designed to fail before other parts in your drivetrain as they are cheaper than tailhousings. Id go with spicer units but at least stay away from greasable as the solids have proven to be much stronger.
Pitman arm, Idler and idler pivot- Check these for play, you can do this by having someone jiggle the steering wheel while you are underneath looking for slop in them. Also check the idler pivot as it FREQUENTLY wiggles itself loose. Mine has almost freed itself from the truck. I have put mine on with red loctite and its yet to free itself again.
UCA ball joints- These too go south often, and the bad part is that you usually need a whole new control arm as if youve ever pressed a new ball joint in an old control arm they often fall right out. Cognito makes control arms that have screw in ball joints which are easily replaceable.
Grease front end linkage- I have a buddy who owns a semi shop and they grease their stuff religiously to keep things wearing nicely. Check all boots and whatnot on greased items. If the boots are ripped grease is worthless as it will just make dirt and grime stick in the joint. A good tube of synthetic grease is cheap and goes a long way.
Brake fluid- Should be changed every 2-3 years, you can tell by the color of the fluid. If its brown and murky looking, its definately time to flush the system.
Glow plugs- Cheap and easy! Be careful when taking them out as they get pretty bound up if they get salt or water on them over time. Mine have fizzled out on me before, and its not fun to start a cold diesel with only a few working glow plugs.
Motor mounts- These do rip somewhat often as well, and will start making stuff shake unnecessarily. I also suggest Johnboy's Motor Mount Fix which can be found here
Up pipe bolts- You would be surprised at how much these back out after you first tighten them after a turbo/up pipe swap.
I know I am forgetting things so please add as necessary! These are just things I have found on my truck and said "Holy crap what if I didnt catch this?" This is intended to keep trucks of all types running happily from bone stock to street sweeper. Alot of these parts can be found through our vendors such as Henry or Chad, so lets support the guys who support our site.
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