You never replaced your oil cooler when you did your build corectt? mabey this is where the metal in the oil came from. I dont see how metal from the water system would get in the oil system
Yep since we have gear driven water pumps
Bad Water Pumps
- Thread starter Gasuout
- Start date
Yep since we have gear driven water pumps
Finished it a around dark . Been out driving it . I used stewies cool way to get fan off . A little careful use of the air hammer . also I bought a 36 mm socket and had my wife hold the crow bar under truck on flex while got on the balancer bolt with a 4 ft bar from the top . Piece of cake . Worked good .
Looked carefully at cam gear and mounting surface . All was good . Put new pump on and carefully tightened it down evenly . Dropped the oil and filter . Filled it back up with coolant and oil and started it .
whoo hooooo ....
No noise !!!! No whirl !!!! , just the whine of the turbo now .
It's about time it sounded right . Back to smooth running motor again .
The pump I took out was easy to spin and you could feel what I think is the bearing . Feels raggedy . Kind of like when you can feel the bearings in a dry skateboard wheel bearing . I also had John drop off old pumps so I could see differences . It is obvious now . The gears on newer pump are skinnier at tip of tooth and fatter at base . The pump I took out you could see heavy wear on the face of the gears . Im sure that is where the flecks of metal in the oil I saw came from .
She is ready to rock though . Im feeling good about this pump so far . Went about 50 miles on the freeway and flogged it around on race tune pretty good .
The new driveline I built for truck is working sweet also . I had a bend in rear drive shaft front half . Was making it wobble and shake carrier off the line and on freeway at around 2000 rpm . You could see it with indicators on balancing machine . Had new tube cut and new slip stub put on tube that is different . It takes a yoke that has the zirk fitting and uses course teeth instead of fine . I was now able to put a bigger carrier bearing on the different stub by using longer stub and shortening shaft tube 1" to accomodate . The kodiak had same carrier that a 2500 uses. Now it has a larger bobtail truck carrier that is much fatter , with same bolt placement . I had been babying the throttle for a while down low to keep it from vibrating . Not any more . Pretty happy with the HP and she is fast . I launched the truck good tonight for the first time . Chalked the tires pretty good and hauled ass . It is time for a little tuning for the rest of the power now .
Ready for the Dyno . It would be nice to get a tune for the truck to load for the dyno with some more boost . 32 psi should make some good power , but there is alot more hp still to had .
Im hoping the water pump doesnt start making noise . All I can do is drive it . If it takes a dump I will just change it again .
Looked carefully at cam gear and mounting surface . All was good . Put new pump on and carefully tightened it down evenly . Dropped the oil and filter . Filled it back up with coolant and oil and started it .
whoo hooooo ....
No noise !!!! No whirl !!!! , just the whine of the turbo now .
It's about time it sounded right . Back to smooth running motor again .
The pump I took out was easy to spin and you could feel what I think is the bearing . Feels raggedy . Kind of like when you can feel the bearings in a dry skateboard wheel bearing . I also had John drop off old pumps so I could see differences . It is obvious now . The gears on newer pump are skinnier at tip of tooth and fatter at base . The pump I took out you could see heavy wear on the face of the gears . Im sure that is where the flecks of metal in the oil I saw came from .
She is ready to rock though . Im feeling good about this pump so far . Went about 50 miles on the freeway and flogged it around on race tune pretty good .
The new driveline I built for truck is working sweet also . I had a bend in rear drive shaft front half . Was making it wobble and shake carrier off the line and on freeway at around 2000 rpm . You could see it with indicators on balancing machine . Had new tube cut and new slip stub put on tube that is different . It takes a yoke that has the zirk fitting and uses course teeth instead of fine . I was now able to put a bigger carrier bearing on the different stub by using longer stub and shortening shaft tube 1" to accomodate . The kodiak had same carrier that a 2500 uses. Now it has a larger bobtail truck carrier that is much fatter , with same bolt placement . I had been babying the throttle for a while down low to keep it from vibrating . Not any more . Pretty happy with the HP and she is fast . I launched the truck good tonight for the first time . Chalked the tires pretty good and hauled ass . It is time for a little tuning for the rest of the power now .
Ready for the Dyno . It would be nice to get a tune for the truck to load for the dyno with some more boost . 32 psi should make some good power , but there is alot more hp still to had .
Im hoping the water pump doesnt start making noise . All I can do is drive it . If it takes a dump I will just change it again .
Bought it at Napa says its a reman . Figured anything was better than the one it in . We will see how long it lasts .
Ive got this water pump R&R down to a system now .
Ive got this water pump R&R down to a system now .
sounds like LBZ piston mfgr making waterpumps. all that metal particles can't be good for any engine. is there are rolling torque/load listed for waterpump. glad to see you got it going.
Water pump
I have the same problem you decribed. The first pump made a whining and grinding sound, the grinding could be heard from the oil filler and the drivers side wheel well. The first pump did it cold and hot with a loud whining sound.
The second pump makes the whining sound when it warms up and around 2000 RPM. the grinding is bearly noticable. After removing the first one there was an unusual wear pattern on the drive gear. I believe that the gear is cut wrong. Mileage does not change the sound I have 2500 Mi on this one. Both were new original GM pumps.
My friend thinks it is the housing and I am waiting for him to change the housing to see if the noise goes away. I think that I am going to get a NAPA pump. I am getting really good at changing these things.
I am suprised thet GM is silent on this issue they must have had this problem when replacing one for a customer.
I have the same problem you decribed. The first pump made a whining and grinding sound, the grinding could be heard from the oil filler and the drivers side wheel well. The first pump did it cold and hot with a loud whining sound.
The second pump makes the whining sound when it warms up and around 2000 RPM. the grinding is bearly noticable. After removing the first one there was an unusual wear pattern on the drive gear. I believe that the gear is cut wrong. Mileage does not change the sound I have 2500 Mi on this one. Both were new original GM pumps.
My friend thinks it is the housing and I am waiting for him to change the housing to see if the noise goes away. I think that I am going to get a NAPA pump. I am getting really good at changing these things.
I am suprised thet GM is silent on this issue they must have had this problem when replacing one for a customer.
Sounds like same problem I had with dealer pumps . I also changed the housing on last one from them and same thing . It is the cut on the gear .
The Napa pump I put on has about 2500 miles on it now . No noise or whine whatsoever . I was worried the 2 noisy pumps prior might have damaged timing gear and would always make noise .
Not the case though . It is fixed with the napa pump . The gear on the dealer pump is obvious when you look at it cut different .
I also got really good at doing these pumps .
i have a video of the delco pumps... i had a huge issue with them a few weeks ago. I had a case with gm and they were supposedly looing into it. The gears on the delco pumps are cut thinner then the stockers. I ended up getting an isuzu pump from another dealer. It was the pump and housing.
To test your pump... once you get the old one out you can take the pump (not the housing) and hold it into the block and try to turn the pump. If you have a bad cut gear it will clunk pretty loud. If you have a good gear then it will have a very very slight clunk, if any.
To test your pump... once you get the old one out you can take the pump (not the housing) and hold it into the block and try to turn the pump. If you have a bad cut gear it will clunk pretty loud. If you have a good gear then it will have a very very slight clunk, if any.
Ok so im pulling the motor out of my truck in a week, and im putting a new water pump on it, i have one setting at a gmc dealer where my buddy works at, but from the sounds of it, i shouldnt get that one? Where should i buy my pump?
Rob
Rob
you can get the gm one. It's gonna be a delco pump though. take the pump and set it into the block and tun it back and forth. If it clunks. take it back to the dealer and get another or your money back. Tell them you installed it and it clunks and whines....
There are good and bad delco pumps out there. The first pumps delco had were good. They then changed the gear design or gear maker or whoever and they are wrong now.
There are good and bad delco pumps out there. The first pumps delco had were good. They then changed the gear design or gear maker or whoever and they are wrong now.
Ic, would i be better off to just go get a different brand from an autoparts store?
ya, you could.
I prefer delco / gm but you just need to verify you get a good one.
Even with another company's pump i would set it in and turn it to check.
I will double check, but IIRC, you can put an LBZ pump into a LLY block. It's a tight squeeze with the hose, but can be made to fit.
Let me check on it first though. I know we used an LBZ pump on Casper, but I don't remember if there was anything else going on.
The best thing to do is compare the gear on your old and new pump .
Whatever brand you use .
If they look different .( width of teeth at tip and width of distance at base of gear)
It is easy to see . And if different you might have noise out of it .
Whatever brand you use .
If they look different .( width of teeth at tip and width of distance at base of gear)
It is easy to see . And if different you might have noise out of it .
