Question: Axle Block on 5th Wheel. Good or Bad Idea?

[snowman22]

I recently purchased an older 5th wheel travel trailer and GVRW is 8200lbs It sits way too low and I'm trying to figure out what I can do without welding a subframe for the hangers if possible. In an absolute perfect world it needs 5-6" of lift, but 3ish would be a decent improvement from what I can tell.

Option #1: Get longer U-bolts and make blocks for the axles. I was going to only make 2" because 3+ seems a little extreme for 1/2" U-bolts on 3500lb axles. I understand this creates more leverage overall and even more so while making tight maneuvers, but is it an absolute no go or a viable solution?

Option #2: I have 5 1/2" between the tandem wheels and from what I've read you can get as close as 1" between them. If I were to change to a 16" wheel I could get onto a larger tire and get 1"ish improvement with a 2" larger tire. The 1" clearance seems concerning and I would try and cycle the axles to see if that holds true before going down that road. It's also really expensive because the tires I have are only a few years old and in great condition.

Option #3: Is to actually make a full subframe and move the hangers down and weld it all up to the frame. This is problematic for me because I can't weld for S**t. My 120v fluxcore isn't going to cut it and I've only made a few gates and welded things that don't matter. So it would require me to build the whole thing and then pay a mobile welder to come finish it up. This just sounds like $$$$

Long story short are blocks on the axles an acceptable solution and how far from level can the trailer be without causing an issue with excess weight being on the rear axle?

 

[Tothemax]

maybe upgrade to 9/16 ubolts and blocks?

 

[snowman22]

maybe upgrade to 9/16 ubolts and blocks?

I haven't seen if there is enough meat on the plates yet, but I guess I could also make new plates.

 

[Leadfoot]

I haven't seen if there is enough meat on the plates yet, but I guess I could also make new plates.

New plates (even from a fab shop) are much cheaper than some of the other options. Several off-road companies may even offer a pre-fabbed plate in a size you need to keep from having to go custom (which could save a few bucks). Just make sure you have enough slack/clearance in any electric brake wires when doing this mod.

 

[subman1980]

Spring over conversion

Are your axles on the trailer over the leaf springs or under? Most trailers are spring under so a spring over conversion is easy and very common. It gains you the diameter of the axle plus the spring pad height in lift so typically around 5”. Very common here in cali for all the guys running trailers out to the dunes.

 

[2004LB7]

Take a photo of your setup and post it. That will help big time in helping you decide or coming up with new or alternative options

 

[snowman22]

Are your axles on the trailer over the leaf springs or under? Most trailers are spring under so a spring over conversion is easy and very common. It gains you the diameter of the axle plus the spring pad height in lift so typically around 5”. Very common here in cali for all the guys running trailers out to the dunes.

The axles have already been "flipped", but with new perches so the axle curve is still upright.

 

[snowman22]

Take a photo of your setup and post it. That will help big time in helping you decide or coming up with new or alternative options

This is the only photo I have. My cul de sac is at a slope so it doesn’t give you a great level representation, but gives you an idea.

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[2004LB7]

I was thinking more of a photo of the axle suspension setup but that's nice too

 

[TheBac]

Years and years ago, my Dad had to do something similar to what you're asking on his 5ver. I'll have to call him and ask if he remembers what they did to raise it.

Are there "longer" spring mounts available that you could substitute?

 

[jlawles2]

Instead of a subframe, could you make a set of tubing spacers that move all of the perches down and replicate the existing perches? That makes it a bolt in plug and play option that can be removed. You could either weld it up yourself or have it built by a reputable shop.

If you do choose to build something you might want to put a couple of mount holes in it to "tune" the height if needed.

 

[ZeroGravity58]

Cheaper option, drop shackles are only $100. Why raise the trailer when you can drop the truck

 

[snowman22]

Cheaper option, drop shackles are only $100. Why raise the trailer when you can drop the truck

The truck needs to go the other way! In all seriousness I can’t lower it because I already have high center issues when I go up in the hills to hike or ride moto. It would also put the truck in the overload springs unloaded.


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[04chase]

how many leafs do your springs have? they make quite a few options that will help lift a bit and be more stable when adding arch and leafs. id want tighter suspension if you were raising the CG.

 

[snowman22]

how many leafs do your springs have? they make quite a few options that will help lift a bit and be more stable when adding arch and leafs. id want tighter suspension if you were raising the CG.

3 leafs in the pack. I quickly looked prior to writing this thread for a spring with more arch with a 25 1/4” eye to eye, but everything seems to be 3” only. Getting additional leafs would obviously increase the ride height by the thickness change in the leaf pack. They make a 6 leaf, but the weight rating almost doubles.


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[snowman22]

I was thinking more of a photo of the axle suspension setup but that's nice too

It’s just a traditional tandem 3500lb setup that’s been flipped (the right way)

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[2004LB7]

If you lengthen the middle purch/hanger a few inches that will push the wheels out a little and down. This would allow you to fit large diameter tires and rims for even more lift. You may even have enough frame there to make a new one that can bolt on instead of welded. You could do that with some flat plate and drilling some holes.

Another option that would require no welding is a new leaf pack with a greater arch.

The problem with blocks for the height you need is it would put a lot of torsional stress on the hardware, suspension, etc while braking. I would try and avoid it

 

[darkness]

I would look into a morryde cre3000 (or equivalent) equalizer setup. I think you might get about an 1”-1.5” out of that. Go ahead and put some blocks on the axles and run panhard bars the whole length of the axle. That would help with any rolling effect around corners with the blocks.

 

[LBZ]

Kal spring and steering could probably do what you need for about 500 bucks I would guess.

 

[Pure Diesel]

Don't know if it's just the picture, but is that one axle bent?

If you need a good trailer place to work on this, try this place in Santa Clarita. Accurate Trailer Hitch (661-251-9234). Owner's name is Sal. A Little pricey but good work.