Automotive Lifts

[duratothemax]

I have a direct lift that I bought from Greg Smith equipment its a 9000 pound Pro it was 1875 for the lift and it was 275 to deliver to a terminal and I picked it up brought it home and put it together I only have a 10 foot 6 ceiling but I can remove transmissions and do everything I need to it will lift a crew cab long bed dual rear wheel with no problem

I have the same lift, a Direct Lift Pro 9F from Greg Smith equipment.

Its rated at "only" 9,000lbs, but its VERY overbuilt. Ive seen 11,000lb chinese no-name lifts that looked cheaper and flimsier.

Ive put plenty of crew cab duallys on it and its rock solid.

The Direct Lift Pro-9F is a re-labeled Rotary Revolution, which is fully ALI/ETL certified. http://www.revolutionlift.com/RTP9-9000-Pound-Capacity-Two-Post-Lift-P1C3.aspx

Unfortunately Greg Smith no longer sells the Direct Lifts. I assume because, since its a "name-brand" lift that is actually made by Dover Elevator in the Rotary factory, the profit margins werent as good compared to Greg Smith's "Atlas" brand lifts, which are not made by Rotary.

ben

 

[McRat]

I'm not sure what thickness my floor is, just bought the place. Would it make any sense to pour a 6" pad at each leg and dowel it into the existing slab? This is assuming the existing slab is only 4" or so.

It's not unusual for a non-commercial building to have concrete that is 3.5", which is the height of a 2x4.

It's easy to test, get a concrete drill (I have a Bosch, love it), put tape at 6" up the drill, then punch a hole. You'll feel it break through.

If you are going pour mounts, might as well go 12" deep x 2' sq.

 

[00f3fiddy]

What's y'all's thoughts on challenger lifts?

 

[06_6.6]

If you are going pour mounts, might as well go 12" deep x 2' sq.

x2. You definitely want to over engineer the pads on these. Ive got no idea what the dimensions of the bases are on the posts, but i would atleast double them. Dowel into existing 18" oc and have a depth of 18" and atleast 2' square along with high grade anchor bolts set in the concrete to mount the posts. Last shop we did for a guy was around these specs and has held up great. Sorry I'm no help on the lift.

Sent from the land of teepee's and buffaloes

 

[Evan@InglewoodTrans]

We did 12 deep 24 sq and reinforced the concrete. While it may be overkill for what the lift required its cheap insurance and one less thing to worry about.

 

[McRat]

Here's the rub. Concrete gets stronger over time. If you want to use your lift within 2 weeks of pouring, you need overkill. 6" that is 10 years old is stout.

 

[sawmilldmax]

I bought a 9,000 Rotary(American Made) two post, and used longer anchor bolts because my concrete was deeper than 6", probably no help, but the lift works great,no issues, and I like the feature of one handle next to your controls to release the locks. It lifts my ccsb with no problems.

 

[blk smoke lb7]

I went overboard and poured the whole single car 12 in thick with rebar and wire mesh all tied in.

Also when I 1st checked the Direct lift was 1958 and I didn't check on delivery.When I had the money the price had jumped to 2375 and 500 to deliver to a terminal I asked them why and they told me its all in relation to the price of steel and fuel to deliver it.So I waited another year when fuel and steel were lower and I got the lift for 1875 and 275 to deliver to a terminal in my area.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ba3d5vLEDYE

 

[OregonDMAX]

As far as I can tell, there are 2 kinds of Bendpak lifts around. American and Chinese. My 4 post is Chinese. But I've seen American Bendpaks and they appear to be built like tanks.

good to know, the BendPak i used was cheap garbage compared to my Rotary and it was 3k higher rated

 

[OregonDMAX]

I bought a 9,000 Rotary(American Made) two post, and used longer anchor bolts because my concrete was deeper than 6", probably no help, but the lift works great,no issues, and I like the feature of one handle next to your controls to release the locks. It lifts my ccsb with no problems.

i use a bungee cord to cheat the lock system and pressure release handle to save time lowering, i know its a bad idea but flatrate pay is a bitch :roflmao:

 

[JoshH]

I have a Forward Lift (it is a Dover Company) 10k lb 2 post lift. I have used it on several 1 ton dually trucks and even on a 2012 Dodge 4500 4x4 cab and chassis with a heavy flat bed, and it hasn't had any trouble lifting any of them. I bought it from a local automotive equipment supply company and they delivered and installed it for what I thought was a very good price. I also have a couple of tall jack stands I use under the front and back of trucks to keep everything stable (the lift company even recommends this on one of the safety labels). I only wish I had gotten the extended model to give me a little more room under trucks.

 

[baddaddition]

Typically you can get the foot print patterns from the dealer your buying the lift from so what we have opted to do is water jet out the same foot PRInt of the legs of our new lift coming in and set it at grade of concrete. Digging the 24x24x12 pillions sinking rebar in a 8in. Grid in the hole and welding our anchors for the new lift in the foot print pattern to our rebar so there is absolutely no questions on structural integrity if you accidentally side load your lift. I'm also a millwright Fourman so we errect two hundred foot towers on concrete every day and weight the structural integrity every second. So we do not rely on he cheesy ass anchors they offer I. the kit. If you don't have the option I was referring to look into HILTI 's concrete epoxy and drill your hole and glue them in with acme thread!!!!! You'll have hank me later... its good shit!
02 cc/SB 5 in.mbrp
cognito braces sleeves ect.
studs, mouth piece,PPE valve
EFI dsp5 Built trans. custom converter
Dom driveshaft
had a batmowheel...... bad subject