I'm trying not to flood this forum with threads and I do research as much as possible before I start a thread. That being said I will research this and can't find anything that pertains to the Duramax. Has anyone out there vented there crankcase vent into the exhaust system? I get a lot of haze from mine and I hope my venting and to the exhaust I can burn off some of that vapor but I can't find anything saying where it has been done on the Duramax. I would love to try this but I would rather get some more feedback on this before I attempt. I know that on a gasser the location is critical to call the vacuum through scavenging and I'm worried placing in the wrong location could cause pressure feed back into the crankcase. Summit Racing sells the weld in bung with the correct angle and venturi I would use one of those if I attempt this. Thoughts opinions questions concerns?
Anyone vented their ccv into the exhaust?
- Thread starter gamudslinger88
- Start date
There is a huge thread with all kinds of different options. I had mine in the exhaust with a moroso kit. With the stock engine, with little to no blow by, it was fine. With the newest built engine, with pretty heavy blow by, it wouldn't let the pressure out enough and would blow my dipstick out. Had to vent back to atmosphere to keep the stick in.
Awesome thanks. I had an oil leak at the drive upper value cover and I wonder if blowby andcrank case pressure contributed some. While I was in there I ran each side a vent and ran back 10 feet. If I tab into the exhaust I'd run 2 vents one for each back. I'm hoping some more miles will seat the rings better.
Creating a venturi/ vacuum effect where you tie crank case into exhaust pipe similar to how a sand blaster drawes sand through the airstream might be necessary.
I did, plumbed into the downpipe but I got the idea from Kyle
Pretty sure mine was a Summit kit, but thought it was a Moreoso kit
I haven't had a single issue with mine with a factory built engine, it hasn't mattered how big of a turbo Ive ran or max boost the engine see's either...hasn't been too much, 44psi
After running it to asmophere before, I hope I never have to again, and technically you don't want to just dump it to atmosphere, you need/want something pulling/evacuating the cc gases out of the engine.:angel:
Where about on the down pipe did you plumb it in? I know on a gasser they say placement is crucial and you have to place it in the collector to get the scavenging effect. The dp would probably be ideal since it has the hottest and fastest flowing. I ran 2 10 foot sections of heater hose, one on each side. Ran down the frame and dumped just under the end of the cab, filling up with fuel will fume you out lol. I hate it. I'd love to try this but blowing more gaskets and seals is the last thing I need. I hope by running 2 instead of 1 it will help by making the flow more manageable.I did, plumbed into the downpipe but I got the idea from Kyle
Pretty sure mine was a Summit kit, but thought it was a Moreoso kit
I haven't had a single issue with mine with a factory built engine, it hasn't mattered how big of a turbo Ive ran or max boost the engine see's either...hasn't been too much, 44psi
After running it to asmophere before, I hope I never have to again, and technically you don't want to just dump it to atmosphere, you need/want something pulling/evacuating the cc gases out of the engine.:angel:
http://m.summitracing.com/parts/vpe...-kxUUCwulYys8tWVBAgY3V7LyR-KbpH6bIaAgrb8P8HAQ
Says it pulls 3" vacuum at idle. Read through the reviews and one claimed 6" at idle. As far as a check valve I wouldn't run one. The diaphragm valve whatchamacallits in the valve covers were installed where the spring kept the valve open at all times. Being the "man who can't leave well enough alone" I did away with the spring and diaphragm all together, less chance of restrictions as I see it. Would a check valve be needed?
On a side not if one doesn't have a vacume gauge you could use a clear tube with some water in it to check the draw of vacuum. I'm curious to know the best place to install to draw the most vacuum. I have a 3.5" dp to a 4" 90 then to a 5", I think the fastest flowing 3.5" would create the most vacuum.
Says it pulls 3" vacuum at idle. Read through the reviews and one claimed 6" at idle. As far as a check valve I wouldn't run one. The diaphragm valve whatchamacallits in the valve covers were installed where the spring kept the valve open at all times. Being the "man who can't leave well enough alone" I did away with the spring and diaphragm all together, less chance of restrictions as I see it. Would a check valve be needed?
On a side not if one doesn't have a vacume gauge you could use a clear tube with some water in it to check the draw of vacuum. I'm curious to know the best place to install to draw the most vacuum. I have a 3.5" dp to a 4" 90 then to a 5", I think the fastest flowing 3.5" would create the most vacuum.
The way it was explained to me, is: there's as much vaccum as there is boost
Right? Its a forced Induction application, so its always creating a vacuum in the exhaust stream, even at idle, and by introducing the inlet/outlet at the high degree of angle is supposed to ensure the venturi effect and further enhance the "draw"
The check valve is more for peace of mind I suppose, with no particulate filter, downpipe restrictions or really ANY restriction in my performance exhaust at all, back pressure isn't an issue, but it was cautioned that if I ever used N2O that a bachfire could accour in the DP and cause damage if a check valve wasn't there...and I guess even extreme amounts of boost can even cause the exhaust gasses to recirculate back into the heads if not valved
While I guess scavenging effect applies a little in a PD Diesel application, its unlike a cammed Gasser, or Gasser at all for that matter in terms of typical Gasser mentality being N/A applications. I think that diesels have more blow by and therefor more ccv's to contend with in general due to cylinder pressure being so much greater, which is what guys with built engines start dealing with (like Kyke was explaining)...but I could be wrong (probably)
As far as where to place the bung for optimum ccv, about 12" from the turbine outlet is where the shop that did the work placed mine, at what Id say is a 60* angle...I'm sure I have a pic somewhere that I can post...
I don't think it's necessary to run a separate inlet for each bank, mine is set up like a standard PCCV re-route, with a T connecting the two banks, and then instead of venting under the chassis Its ran to the DP...I'm sure I have a pic of that too...
Right? Its a forced Induction application, so its always creating a vacuum in the exhaust stream, even at idle, and by introducing the inlet/outlet at the high degree of angle is supposed to ensure the venturi effect and further enhance the "draw"
The check valve is more for peace of mind I suppose, with no particulate filter, downpipe restrictions or really ANY restriction in my performance exhaust at all, back pressure isn't an issue, but it was cautioned that if I ever used N2O that a bachfire could accour in the DP and cause damage if a check valve wasn't there...and I guess even extreme amounts of boost can even cause the exhaust gasses to recirculate back into the heads if not valved
While I guess scavenging effect applies a little in a PD Diesel application, its unlike a cammed Gasser, or Gasser at all for that matter in terms of typical Gasser mentality being N/A applications. I think that diesels have more blow by and therefor more ccv's to contend with in general due to cylinder pressure being so much greater, which is what guys with built engines start dealing with (like Kyke was explaining)...but I could be wrong (probably)
As far as where to place the bung for optimum ccv, about 12" from the turbine outlet is where the shop that did the work placed mine, at what Id say is a 60* angle...I'm sure I have a pic somewhere that I can post...
I don't think it's necessary to run a separate inlet for each bank, mine is set up like a standard PCCV re-route, with a T connecting the two banks, and then instead of venting under the chassis Its ran to the DP...I'm sure I have a pic of that too...
It's convenient that this topic came up because I was just talking about doing this the other day. Pictures would be great.
I had the tube running down the block before and it was horrid, now I don't smell the crank case gasses at all, just the pungently sweet aroma of the unrestricted emissions that a tuned diesel with performance injectors makes:angel:
With the amount of crankcase gasses coming out of my breather I wouldn't want that crap coating the whole inside of my exhaust.
I have to come up with a setup top at least catch the oil with these Socal Billet valve covers there is no baffle what so ever and the hose barb fitting screws right in above the rockers I have a small slick after driving mine with this built motor now. I bought a catch can I'm going to see if I can add it and stop the oil at the very least.