any concrete experts
- Thread starter NinjaMax
- Start date
You could try white portland and lime. mix it up real creamy and skim it. the lime keeps it kinda flexable.
It appears that your concrete is freeze spalling. I would find a good repair mortar then waterproof the entire surface with a good sealer.
Will I need to go around and find all the weak spots? I suspect there will be more then I can see at this point
That was Spalding from freezing. It appears that the original concrete guy probably didn't do it right in the first place but those things happen. If you want to patch it yourself clean really good with no debris left. Then use bonding agent and resurface or sand mix. Both are concrete without the aggregate. This must be done when it is dry and preferably when warmer weather. Probably better to wait until spring.
The rest of my driveway is asphalt, would be a big deal to asphalt over it? Or is that a bad idea?
if you catch the asphalt companies while they are in the area, I have gotten unbelievable low prices for stuff. the big expense is moving the equipment.
From the pictures you posted I will say that NONE of the repair methods will work.There are some questions that need to be answered to determine whether the asphalt will last,such as how old is the concrete & where it appears to be crumbling can you continue to dig it out or can you get to a point where the concrete seems solid.As far as cost of asphalt it depends on what your gonna do.....asphalt goes down in layers w/a TOP layer being as thin as 1/2 inch, unfortunately there's not a lot of strength there....so $$ wise I would say 1-3k for the sq. footage (1200) that your lookin @ hope this helps
Ardex products will have a product to repair any concrete surface with the correct surface preparation, used in commercial and industrial applications..
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wg7x5L0EAg0
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wg7x5L0EAg0
Ardex is a great product however if the concrete that your covering is rotting from the inside out ( there can be a number of reasons-poor mix, water to cement ratio,air entrainment too much or not enough) then any overlay whether cementious,synthetic,acrylic will eventually fail.I think asphalt is the best option here.....a lot of times these types of overlays are not cost effective either..
Inside out? I would be more concerned about the moisture in the subgrade being drawn up into the concrete...
I understand how moisture being drawn up into the concrete can cause possible bonding issues & or delamination of the overlay....the point I was trying to make was if the concrete itself was suspect based on what I mentioned earlier it doesn't matter what overlay product you use it won't last,it's only as good as what it's applied to...w/ that being said being from the n.east w/ extreme freeze thaw cycles H20 penetrates the surface freezes sometimes causing small fractures & voids allowing more moisture & corrosives to penetrate even deeper into the concrete....if the mix is suspect the concrete will actually rot from the inside out...been involved many DOT projects involving structural conc. where H20 & corrosive penetration has compromised & or destroyed rebar long before the surface of the structure failed....this disintegration is accelerated w/ a suspect mix
While I agree with new york lly, I would say it really is up to how long of life you are looking for in the repair. Preparation is the key in these circumstances. My guess is that more of this will occur and get more severe the long it goes. My best advice for long term is brake it out and start over. If you are looking for something short term and cheap, take a chain and slap it on the surface followed by a high pressure water blast (3500 psi) and try using a product called Urecrete it is a urethane cement. Just my 2 cents and about all it's worth.