Another mild build thread?

Yngdmax92

Active member
Sep 26, 2013
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need honest opinions here guys. I know this might flare up some things but i am just going to throw it out their any ways. I got my truck from my dad with about 180,000 miles on it. tuned it and worked my way up to what i have now. it has 216,000 miles on it now. I am getting a little blow by out of the oil cap when i take it off. I need to replace a head because of a broke glow plug and jimmied up a to plug it off for now. Injectors have around 30,000 miles on it.

So my question to you guys is, would i be dumb to just pull the heads,replace the driver side one, get them checked over and get a valve job with new guides and then stud it and throw it back together or should i tear it down.

IF i tore it down i am going to use lbz rods- my mods consist of now are stock fueling system, lift pump, built trans, and port and polished 64mm ihi running it around 40psi.

my build would consist of

lbz rods
idk for pistons-mine are probably not reusable, probably have to bore the block
get the crank checked out and get it keyed
new cam keyed
lml oil pump
low mileage lbz cp3 with regulator
keep stock injectors-send out to get cleaned and checked over, may get 30-45 overs but idk if its worth it
new gaskets and front/rear main seals
already have a new water pump in it so that should be fine


If i build it, i am not going any bigger, my goal is 600hp and that is it. I want it to be a fun truck when i want the little extra power but i still like to use it as a truck, tow heavy when needed and so on. What would you guys do if you were in my shoes? any opinions are greatly appreciated. And i know everyone on here is going to say that me using lbz rods is a terrible idea but yet again, i really dont think i can swing 2500 dollars for rods while in college. Looking to spend 3-5k on this also, so budget is key. Like i said i dont and will not go any bigger on turbo or fuel if you guys think it is not needed. If lower pulse is "safer" with injections then i might step up a little on the nozzles and thats it
 

Yngdmax92

Active member
Sep 26, 2013
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I am just one to assume, idk they might not be, I just figured the miles that are on my rig would take a toll on them
 

TheBac

Why do I keep doing this?
Staff member
Apr 19, 2008
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I assume its an LB7? As long as you keep your goal to <600hp, I dont see any issues with your list. Its essentially what I did 4 years (&40,000 miles) ago.
Nothing wrong with LB7 pistons at that mileage, or at least shouldnt be.
I would definitely consider higher % injectors if your budget allows.
Id go thru the heads, though. Might be a good idea to have the machine shop test the valve springs and maybe replace them if needed.
Have you considered head studs?
 

Yngdmax92

Active member
Sep 26, 2013
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Springs really aren't that costly any ways, I do run my shifts up 3500 new ones wouldn't be a bad idea. And yes for sure on the head studs. I actually been waiting for my coolant system to pressurize, the stock gaskets are really impressing me to say the least. And yes this is a lb7. Does it matter if I choose to get 30 over or 45 considering cost between the two is minimal? Defiantly sticking to 600hp goal. I feel that after 600hp the drive train will be my new money pit. Just want to rebuild it and enjoy it with out worrying
 

TheBac

Why do I keep doing this?
Staff member
Apr 19, 2008
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Mid Michigan
I guess your injector choice depends on who's doing them. 45s wouldnt be a bad idea if budget allows, would make the pulse that much tighter. Lower pulse will also help the CP3 keep up.
 

onebaddmaxxx

Active member
Feb 22, 2009
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Cecil County Md
my buddy cracked a piston in his lbz, we pulled it out over a weekend and dropped some used delipped lb7 pistons with headstuds and its been going strong for 2 years at 700hp. essentially the same setup you are looking for. DEF do injectors (at least go to 45%s) it will greatly help
 

meshanic

All In Trucks
Dec 9, 2010
436
0
16
West Texas
I would get them delipped. It's not pricey and it helps get rid of the hot spot around the bowl. Mine are holding up well plus many guys have pushed cut & delipped stockers way past what you'll be doing. You're in for an internal balance job anyway if you change to LBZ rods.
 

Yngdmax92

Active member
Sep 26, 2013
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are main studs needed at a 600-650hp level and how often do you guys use wear sleeves when replacing main seals on this engine
 

dirtymax36

2nd place is last
Apr 11, 2013
367
2
18
Main studs wouldnt hurt, I would use all new bearings on the bottom end and key the oil pump, get a new welded water pump, 45% nozzles, de lipp the pistons, get new rings, keep stock bore and have it all balanced.

Also speaking from expierence, I know they are expensive but look into an alternate fire cam. I broke my crank at 500 hp hardly even driving it hard. Its a risk putting a stock cam back in it i believe but that is up to you.
 

Bustedknuckles

Honey Badger
Sep 25, 2010
1,308
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Hagerstown MD
I'm in the same shoes as you, id love a 800 Hp truck to keep up with the cummins around here but I have a house to pay for and other hobbies. When/if mine goes I'm going to do exactly what you have outlined unless the price of rods comes way down. I already have 30% overs, S366, head studs and a built trans. It runs awesome other than the cp3 is getting weak and the FPR is otw out.
 

WVRigrat05

Wound for sound
Jan 1, 2011
3,081
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French Creek, West Virginia
Do arp head studs and mains, get your heads checked, I'd just tear it down and do new seals and bearings, a hone, delip your pistons and new rings, key your crank and cam and call it good with the other things your wanting to do as well.
 

Yngdmax92

Active member
Sep 26, 2013
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Do arp head studs and mains, get your heads checked, I'd just tear it down and do new seals and bearings, a hone, delip your pistons and new rings, key your crank and cam and call it good with the other things your wanting to do as well.

are you saying not to bother with lbz rods?
 

Yngdmax92

Active member
Sep 26, 2013
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again thanks for the help guys, i am going to find injection lines, a driver side head, low mileage lbz pump/regulator. prices are coming from brent at Lincoln diesel specialties. Great guy and is full of knowledge to help you out and defiantly points you in good directions:thumb:
 

Yngdmax92

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Sep 26, 2013
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I am from upstate ny, can you guys send me in the right direction as to who to contact for delipping my pistons for me.
 

SilveradoTwins02

Hopefully twins soon
Aug 5, 2014
194
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Hanover PA
I am from upstate ny, can you guys send me in the right direction as to who to contact for delipping my pistons for me.

Do u have any local machine shops that you would use for motor machine work? They should be able to do it. I did my own, not difficult at all. 2.500 I.D with a .1875 radius on the edge
picture.php

Make sure you key the cam and crank too. Pinning the oil pump is also a good option while it's apart.
 

Yngdmax92

Active member
Sep 26, 2013
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i am going to do a compression test first to see if anything is hurt. i just talked to a guy names jesse on this forum. and he gave me some confidence that my bottom end is probably still good, so i will do a compression test and see. If it tests out good i am going to throw a used low mileage lbz pump on it, head studs and one used driver side head wiht lml manifold and get the heads checked. Maybe i am just doubting the old girl a little to much haha. will see though, thanks fellas for all the information