Also instead of throwing all this money and time in parts regardless of what you're trading for you should probably just replace what you need to replace and save your money. You're not gonna be able to keep your foot out of it let's be honest here.
Wonder why anyone hasn't mentioned a cut set of lb7 pistons yet... or instead of forged rods why not just a stock set of rods.
I'm trading labor and some spare items I don't use for the pistons. Only Reason I'm getting the pistons. And I'm just doing the balancing to help prevent any unwanted vibrations which could harm the crank. Just as a precaution. I'm not gonna turn up the engine anymore than it is right now just need to fix the weak leak and let it last for a while
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Also instead of throwing all this money and time in parts regardless of what you're trading for you should probably just replace what you need to replace and save your money. You're not gonna be able to keep your foot out of it let's be honest here.
Still the cost for the parts a 2nd time when it takes out everything you just replaced really sucks. You will be money ahead to get a single Lbz replacement piston and run it and save up money.
Your going to drop 2,150 then +60.00 Weight matching of all pistons within 0.5 grams which I would not do the machine shop can when weight matching everything to balance.
You would be into Lb7/Lly Pistons for 1050.00 plus the cost to delip them or race cast for the 1,600.00 area.
Overhaul gaskets, bearing set 800 area.
We over a few budget builds for about anyone. One of our best selling bundles is the Brian crower rod kit with race castvor upgrade to finger bowls all gaskets and bearings.
http://creaturesofthenightperformance.com/Search.aspx?k=Package+&m=57731
Also these refresh kits work great.
http://creaturesofthenightperformance.com/Search.aspx?k=Package+&m=48434
The gaskets will be free beside heads. Those are like 40$ each my cost. And I'm in my trade about 1000$ and getting 2200$ pistons so I don't think I'm doing to bad on the deal. If I can sell more toys prior to rebuild then I might do rods might. But I don't foresee making anything over 600whp and be tuned by either atp or Ppei so i think the rods should be fine although I'm unfamiliar with the breaking/bending point it of the rods
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Believe me I work for gm and they bet it into your head " fix it right the first time " but being a single income for family of 4 and I'm debt beyond belief I'm just doing what I can to get my truck back on the road .
Amen to that Tom. Mine has been on tune 2 for a while now...no sense in blowing it up when the money isn't ad abundant as it once wasThen put LB7 pistons in it and turn it down. Its just a truck. Things can get very spendy very quickly in this hobby.
Think about your priorities. Dont be stupid.
Amen to that Tom. Mine has been on tune 2 for a while now...no sense in blowing it up when the money isn't ad abundant as it once was
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Other then the overhaul gaskets calling off the self at Gm here's a lot of little ones at your Milage to replace.
I would be checking those Pistons out hard trade for 2,200 worth of Pistons. Also with Milage your at should be bored out to get the best ring seal.
I also work for General Motors myself.
I mean all the gm bulletins for oil consumption they say leave the bore alone and slap new pistons in it. Believe me I don't wanna do it more than once but I also don't ppm on turning it up anymore then it is now if anything load a 150hp tune and call it a day but still would like the fingers pistons as for a little more insurance knowing I can abuse it still with the 150 and won't pop a piston obviously as long as it's got a good tuner and keep the egts down.
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X2^ if you're not building the motor, just replace the busted piston. Even if your cylinder wall is scuffed beyond what a light bone will remove, you will never notice the difference. Like I said, I'm all for building one Right, but from the sounds of it, you'd be better off just replacing the shot piston and slapping it back together.